TurboTapin

I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times. Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...

No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty. Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly. Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier. Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.

The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past. @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.

I'm not certain of your capabilities but parts and labour of a 2.8 will be well above 15k. You could do things slowly though (I.E Buy parts, save up, build block, save up, build head, etc.) As mentioned, go single turbo.

If this is required due to the installation of a GTR hood on a GTSt, the existing GTSt one can be modified to fit.

Racetronix also sells those ethanol content sensor bypass blocks. Adapter, Flex-Fuel E85 Sensor High-Flow Bypass, In-line No Sensor (ADF-FLEX-NS): Adapters - Flex Fuel | Racetronix Ethanol content sensor are originally designed to be on the feed line. These bypass blocks are meant to be ran in the feed line and not return. The continental ethanol content sensors have a 3/8" ID and not 5/16". This is why they are ran on the return line directly in conjunction with a low threshold sampling value VS in the feed with one of these blocks. Haha we think alike, I used both original feed/return for 8AN feed, and one of the Hicas lines as a 6AN return. I also capped off and left the other Hicas line as a spare.

Nice car! Looking at your GTS; makes me wonder why I bought a GTS-t... Everything has been changed anyway. I should have just started with a non turbo model.

As somebody who works in the energy sector and lives in a subzero climate, i'm convinced EV's will never be the bulk of our transport. EV battery and vehicle companies over here have been going bankrupt on a weekly basis the last year.

Let me know how much you're looking to get! Thanks.

I'm late to the party. Been busy with a newborn... Keeping me up at all hours of the night. I'll look into purchasing ID 1750's then! Thanks everyone for the concrete evidence.

Nissan is the largest shareholder of Mitsubishi motors, so they come along for the ride. Nissan actually owns more of Mitsubishi's Motors then Mitsubishi does. My '23 Mitsubishi Outlander is a Nissan Rogue in disguise.

I have some downtime due to winter, and just wrapped up converting the car over to flex fuel. We don't get E85 at the pump over here in Canada, but I will be running Ignite E90 Race gas. I'll be mixing it with 99-100 RON pump gas and shoot for 50% ethanol content, up to possibly 85% content if there's any noticeable gains. Here's the question. Most I'll ever want to hit is ~600rwkW. I've currently running 1200cc injectors and want to keep them under 90% duty cycle. As per some online injector calculators, I should be good with 1200's well past 600rwkw on E85. As per other calculators, I'll need 1600-2000cc's. The variety is rather amusing. With you Australians having E85 at the pump, what realistic duty cycles are you seeing in those kW ranges on E50 & E85 on your injectors? Thanks,

No issues here with my PRP gears in an OEM pump housing. I did confirm all housing clearances were to spec prior though. Cheers.

That's my local track! A lot of fast/record holders come out of it presumably due to our cold air in spring and fall.

That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card. I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers,

I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?

This is a simple swap when you reuse the RB20 loom and auxiliaries. I run a standalone, but if I remember right, using the RB25 ecu you only have 2 injectors to inverse. There are many DIY's on this subject online, including this forum.

I agree their STREET is limited in features, but both their RACE and PRO models have everything you could possibly need (I.E Knock, Built in EGT, Built in Wideband, Dual DBW, etc.) It's also cheaper in comparison with anything Haltech has to offer and more importantly from what I hear it actually works well. I'm a little bias these days as Haltech has really turned into a pile of poop lately.. I don't know what's happening with their firmware team but I'm thinking it's outsourced and their cutting costs. There's always massive bugs, they're not doing any testing, there's no revision control (I.E They acknowledged a few months back that they accidently released an unfinished firmware). It feels like they're being run by bean counters vs actual software & electrical engineers. They seem to be to busy releasing new products as opposed to fixing software issues. As of 2-3 weeks ago they started a beta program to presumably op the rest of the end users out of unwillingly testing firmware's. I'm happy they're starting to listen to all the complaints. Hopefully it gets better fast.

I've personally heard nothing but good things about them. With Haltech using the end user as beta testers and the sheer amount of firmware bugs that have been coming out the last year; If I could do it all over again, Maxx would of been an option.

Send your oil out for analysis for peace of mind.

These are marketed for shops over here in North America. They're called "Bag in a box" oil. It's not very popular as most shops just stick to barrels and metered oil guns. I've never seen these used or sold for at home use, although the one in the video does seem a tad smaller.

That's generally how I handle it. I was surprised in NGK's response though. They stated on the low end, people replace them every pass and on the higher end, once a season. I'm confident I can keep them much longer than that as it's not a dedicated race car.

Sounds good, thanks for the explanation. I'm not on stock height coils, so I doubt 34's would be an option but I'll measure to confirm. Reason I ask is the 36's have been discontinued since the beginning of 2023. NGK has no direct replacement. I just ordered another spare set. Thanks!

I've been running R7436's with R35 coil packs on my RB28. I was wondering what made you jump over to R7434's with the R35's coil packs? Thanks,

Like @Dose Pipe Sutututu mentioned, 10W30 on a built motor would not be a great idea. As for the steel wool, we think alike as I went ahead and put SS wool into my catch can as per my above posts.