Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Members
  • Posts

    15,517
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    371
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Sorry I should have clarified, they sell new power connectors to the top of the fuel tank for your fuel pump power. And yes, you essentially you're connecting the fuel pump directly to the battery via a relay, and fuse. I suggest at the very least 30AMP Narva or Bosch (or anything decent, no eBay shit) relay, 4mm wiring, good fuse holder and run a 20AMP fuse. No harm going balls out big lol
  2. I suspect the FPCM causing the issue, just earth off the pump OR delete the resistor complete, i.e. join both wires together and throw out the resistor. It's located next to the jack in the boot and opposite the electric antenna. See if that helps, if there is some improvement - go straight to hard wiring the fuel pump with a proper relay, decent 4mm wires with a new plug going to the fuel cap. Kudos MS sells them brand new, so great for DIY work. Lastly, another thing to check would be the stock FPR vacuum hose, they tend to crack/pop off over time and because there's a hard plastic shield over it, sometimes the leaks aren't evident.
  3. G3, relatively old design compared to his more recent & modern turbos. That result is pretty decent! Jack up your car, unbolt your car, have a look if it's hollowed out or not! And if you're really keen on getting a re-tune and burning cash take it to Mark @ MRC Dyno in Castle Hill. He would be my pick if I had to choose a tuner. I've seen his timing maps/tunes and compared to others they're much better.
  4. Generally Hypergear high flows (back then, no experience with his newer high flows) made around the 250-270kW on a roller dyno. Tao's test rig often read a bit higher as it was always dynoed on a hub dyno.
  5. does your car run a cat?
  6. I wouldn't get a retune to "fix" it running rich. Blow $1200 for no reason to be honest. Also it may be tuned rich for a reason, generally with thise high flow turbos, the rear housings are small (because they're OEM) and you often have heaps of exhaust back pressure as you can Only get so much air out versus in due to the upgraded compressor wheels. Now if you were to have a ruler flat instagrammable AFR reading you might find your car will knock or have sky high EGTs due to the low timing. So to combat this, tuners or mechanics turned tuners dump in heaps of fuel to combat knock. Anyhow if you feel like getting it "re-tuned" I suggest you reset the PowerFC so they at least have to copy and paste another tune on and touch it up.
  7. Aus Evo lyfe.. didn't want to break his gearbox or transfer lol
  8. I don't own an EVO? if I did, it would be broken.
  9. Racing is so 2016, 2018 is about skids, dose and Mexico
  10. Came here for skids and dose, disappointed.
  11. From what I see/gather the ABS (from S14/15/R33) is standalone and takes all the wheel sensor (RHS LHS front wheels, drivetrain speed) and calculates wheel speed differences and pulses front or rear brakes accordingly. I've fitted and tuned 2x halaltechs to 2x S15s and they still both retain ABS
  12. My understanding the ECU receives a VSS signal and doesn't output one.
  13. was your original R33 CAS plastic? if so swap your wires back
  14. We drive dinosaur Nissans not modern cars. ABS is its own unit, ECU has nothing to do with it.
  15. Damn, same came in here expecting a blown turbo and possibly a hole in the block too. Disappointed lol. Serious note, does it come on early ish? And your tacho, just take it apart and pull the needle back to 0 RPM also check the motor circuit solder isn't cracked, I resoldered mine and the gauge works well now.
  16. Some updates, will help monitor skids and keep the motor from going bang again. Wiring needs to be tucked away, currently in to test all the sensors and test out the engine protection. So this is what was wired up: Halaltech wideband, Halal 4 bar Motorsports map sensor, Halal oil temperature, Halal oil pressure, Ti fuel pressure sensor, Halal air intake temp sensor. Also made a bracket for the oil filter housing, looks less ghetto now. And yeah 2x marine flux capacitors lol
  17. Fixed the electrical issue, some how 3x fuses blew and 1x relay died (no idea why/how)... Perhaps I started the car without the dash connected which breaks the sense wire circuit to the alternator OR maybe because my mate connected up the C-TEK to the battery on RECON mode (charges at a much higher voltage).. so yeah, I wasn't going to post this on a public forum but meh: Testing done in Hoi An, Vietnam - north of where I am at the moment. Car is untuned, on a Halaltech base map with injectors scaled correctly. Flex sensor reads E32 and compensation tables have a blanket 45% extra fuel going into it. On gate pressure hits 10.2:1 AFR LOL.. Just send it:
  18. Kinda, it's here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/80-vr-series-r35-gtr-juke-r/ Could do: Classics (S, C, R30) General Engine Modifications Suspension, Braking & Body R31~34 General Engine Modifications Suspension, Braking & Body V35~V37 General Engine Modifications Suspension, Braking & Body R35 General Engine Modifications Suspension, Braking & Body Then consolidate all of the Automotive Category and/or move the threads into the appropriate new structure
  19. It's too granular, and you end up with heaps of dead sub-forums Suggestions: Consolidate into "International" North NZ South NZ Canada United States Consolidate into "Photography & Art" Computer ARt Photography Nearly tempted to say we should have sub-forums within each of the "eras" of Skylines something like 1953-1988 Classics Forced Induction General Maintenance Suspension & Braking 1986-2002 RB Series Forced Induction General Maintenance Suspension & Braking 2002-Present VQ Series Forced Induction General Maintenance Suspension & Braking Kinda get the idea? At the moment feels like there are too many sub-forums and people post everywhere
  20. hahaha yeah man! For a second though you were him - top bloke, always hires out his dyno for me to tune shit boxes
  21. Anything new/old can fail unfortunately
  22. Could be a blocked/failing injector which also caused that cylinder to fail. Problem with a single wideband is that it's reading an average of all 6 cylinders, I suggest take out your plugs and see the colour differences between them to determine which cylinder is leaner than the other (easiest option). Best option is to remove the injectors and get them flow tested.
  23. Do you have a wideband on it? You say it is running "lean" but do you actually have data? Low comp, just add more boost and send it.
×
×
  • Create New...