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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. for $10k, it's not that bad - spend a few here and there and rip skids.
  2. FWIW (might not even be on-topic) but I also decided to NOT go the spline drive route, after reading countless forums, blog posts, watching fat Jim talk about oil pumps and shit it seems the general consensus is that the spline drive needs the motor to have perfect tolerances, etc. Most of the time when we build motors, we all end up line boring the block, this "generally" shifts the crank position by a bee's dick and because your oil pumps cannot be shifted that direction by whatever you end up unevenly driving the spline drive. With my new motor for the shitbox, I just re-used the OEM NEO oil pump (which I believe it similar as a N1) and used the Spool billet gears. Crank was machined down, and the extended collar fitted with 2x grub screws. I also run a host of sensors and can log oil pressure vs. engine speed vs. oil temp and water temp for anyone interested. It's on a Haltech Elite with no additional boxes (no need to insert Haltech box jokes). Happy to post whatever data people want
  3. Now that conversion would be fun, put a dirty cam on it. Brap Brap Brap Brap lol
  4. http://www.pureautomotiveperformance.com/product/pure-2jz-swap-toyota-86-plug-play-package-motec-m130-stand-alone-obsidian-motorsports-group/ + motor, box, fab work Would be great fun
  5. Celebratory skid? It's standard SAU practice
  6. I would refrain from spreading misleading facts. It requires 95RON+ to suppress knock not because it needs "clean" fuel, nothing about it won't burn as clean and things get dirty over time. You might lose 10~30kW because you've go past MBT and/or in knock territory.
  7. Sinco twin scroll single gate manifold, GTX3071R Gen 2, 45mm external gate, 1250cc Bosch injectors, Walbro 460L, E85, ARP headstuds, decent blue or black coloured coilpacks (steer clear of any other coloured ones), decent clutch, ECU of some sort and heaps of boost.
  8. Harros, Since I am thinking of keeping 'Le Siet Bok' a bit longer, I thought I might as well clean up the interior a bit and tidy it up - especially ripping out all the gauges, EBC, etc. I am after the following: R33 S2 trim, where the driver's knee goes without broken clips R33 S2 steering column top & bottom trim R33 S2 skirts pref. in Silver R33 S2 rear pods pref. in Silver R33 S2 front s2 pref. in Silver R33 S2 front grill pref. in Silver R33 S2 dash trim/radio trim (if really, no massive scratches or drill marks or glue marks) R33 S2 driver's door trim (only in good condition, no dents on grill no cuts/grazes) I'm located in Cabramatta, NSW 2166 and happy to drive up to 1 hour to pick up the parts. Since I'm expecting decent quality, I'm not after cheap and roughed up goods - however will be selling my roughed up goods soon LOL Cheers, Johnny
  9. Just use a multimeter to work out the polarity
  10. ECU might think it's whatever you saw on the ECUtalk, but is it synchronised with the motor?
  11. is your CAS fully retarded? I've had cars with aftermarket turbos stock actuators shoot up to 1.4bar 1.5bar of boost when timing is super retarded (CAS off by 10~15 degrees). Happened last week actually, was doing some basic street tuning before the dyno next week and the car kept shooting above targetted boost. Checked the CAS again and it was off by about 15 degrees lol.
  12. Buy a wideband and install it
  13. On the topic of belts/idlers/pulleys When was the last time the timing belt/major service was done? could well be bearing noise from either the water pump OR the idler OR the tensioner pulley
  14. My advice, sell car buy a Golf GTI MK6
  15. Higher number more fuel, lower number less fuel. Unfortunately those numbers are nearly like arbitrary numbers, it doesn't represent VE or injector timings. And get a wideband before you go guessing it's misfiring because it's too rich, chances are it's a lean misfire.
  16. Buy a Golf GTI, it is much faster and P plate legal. Not to mention has all the safety features someone on their Ps would need. When I look back to my yesteryears, I owned a pretty fast RB swapped 180SX on my Ps (yes I am old, you could drive them back then), so many times I nearly killed myself but didn't. Car had no ABS, no TC, no stability control, no airbags, no anything besides a locker and a RB lol
  17. You're better off with a @Toshi re-mapped ECU being sent over to you.
  18. Seems like that, they over cut the ignition power cable, so what did they do? find a 5cm piece of wire to extend it!!!!! Not to mention, instead of using the Nissan keyless module for the interior light and/or determine if the doors are opened, they instead ran a wire up to the cabin light LOL!!!
  19. Seems like the car blows a bit of smoke, but hopefully it goes away. In other news, wired up a new alarm and tidied up the horrendous shit job a "professional" did. Idiot ran a separate power lock relay for no reason when Nissan's keyless module has all the I/Os needed to trigger and control the door lock motors. Also they used speaker wire to connect the lock motor to the relay. Funny I'm not a professional by any means but the alarm install I did looks about 20x times neater and tidier. I honestly don't know how people stay in business performing such shitty work. I won't mention who did the work for the previous owner but holy shit it was poor! Clue, store is in Blacktown/Slacktown. Anyhow.
  20. Buy a set of Hel braided hoses, job done New, braided, stronger all for about $160 delivered. No point re-using dinosaur Nissan lines.
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