Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Members
  • Posts

    15,496
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    371
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. unplug your stock O2 sensor, see what happens... could be the fuel trims are going mental
  2. I would put in a RB25 NEO, with VCT and a solid lifters and being already a single turbo motor you'll be silly to put in a RB26. But each to their own, saying I have a RB26 gives people boners. I personally prefer fat torque and less lag + no need to spend days blocking up the secondary oil drains and tidying all the lines not to mention you need to chop the sump as well etc.
  3. Post the video on YouTube and link it back here. No one wants to download random files these days
  4. Save your money on a better intercooler and a better ECU. Cold air intakes make marginal difference on a turbo charged car. The air coming out of the compressor is what you need to consider chilling down.
  5. I'm happy to assist when someone asks a genuine question and actually have done their part in research. Most aftermarket rails will fit with 1/2 height injectors (~38mm o-ring to o-ring). On my R34 NEO motor, using a R33 plenum (long story) I've got Bosch 1550cc 1/2 height injectors with a run of the mill Plazmaman fuel rail. Do not use 3/4 height injectors, you will need to grind down parts of your stock plenum to fit on R33 stock plenums. Now onto R34 NEO motors. Do not use 1/2 height injectors OR 1/2 height injectors (supply side) with the extenders to make them 3/4 height. They will not work, nor will they fit - regardless of what "shops" or "online retailers" say, you need proper 3/4 height injectors from the get-go. I put together a massive post somewhere on SAU about this. The only 1/2 height that will fit are those with the extended nozzle, where you can add a bottom sleeve (nozzle side) to make them 3/4 height. They're commonly advertised as Bosch 1250cc.
  6. "if" you do go with the Nismo 740s, I still recommend changing the OEM fuel regulator, especially with bigger pumps. Yes all of SAU and others will say "the OEM FPR will work and flow xyz blah blah blah" but when you log the fuel pressure data you'll understand what I mean. You get these nasy spikes between transient events. If you do go down the path of Nismo 740s with an aftermarket FPR, steer clear from the SARD bullshit - they're horrendous, get at the very least a FPR800 or FPR1200 Turbosmart unit.
  7. For the price you pay, a little more gets you stainless top feeds - also you'll find the Nismo 740s don't really like low pulsewidths but if you're running E85 then you won't really get that problem as you need generally close to 40% more fuel. Also modern top feeds, you can push more fuel pressure without sacrificing spray pattern and operation at lower PWs. A S15 I tuned recently has a set of Bosch Seadoo injectors that I cranked up to 4bar base pressure, and at full tilt gets about close to 6bar worth of fuel pressure. Car idles better than stock Here's a rather shitty guide I wrote a while back going top feeds: www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/
  8. "Things aren't getting hot enough" is that what your mechanic really said? I think you should look a little further to the intake side of the motor and determine if some donkey has fitted larger injectors to a stock ECU or scaled your injectors incorrectly with your aftermarket ECU. If your car is completely stock then i suggest you look a bit deeper and diagnose if your AFM and narrowband O2 is cooked, if so your short term and long term fuel trims would be contributing to your plugs fouling. Nothing to do with things aren't getting hot enough, it's not a bbq.
  9. and I can send you a bunch of tunes I've created in the past (if going adaptronic) - however still get a tuner to check for AFRs/knock on a dyno
  10. Of course, Nistune is light years ahead of a PowerFC. If you decide to get a Nistune, I suggest finding a compatible RB20DET ECU and get the board installed. Don't use a Z32 ECU, I've had so many problems with them. Nistune has full flex, launch control. boost control, basic engine protection - things a PowerFC does not have.
  11. Adaptronic will suit your requirements. If budget permits a Link or a Haltech is a step up. Nistune you need a license to be able to make changes, however generally customers I've tuned you can get the car in an "ok" state when you upgrade the AFM and also the injectors at the same time. Might idle about 11~12 AFR and drive a bit shit but it's enough to get to the dyno.
  12. I think what Pete wants is E63 AMG Performance in the shape of a R34 GT-R. Here's one with just a reflash.
  13. Ti sensors, also if you want them to last longer remote mount them.
  14. RB26 has so much torque, like -180nm at 2000rpm than a Golf R
  15. the graph plot should be some what an exponential decay
  16. Your crank fueling vs temperature is out. Bring it back to your tuner or if you have Nistune fix it yourself or download it and send it to me and I'll fix it for you.
  17. It won't sell, I tried - so I turned up the wick, thrashed the living daylights out of it on the track and the motor exploded LOL
  18. for $10k, it's not that bad - spend a few here and there and rip skids.
  19. FWIW (might not even be on-topic) but I also decided to NOT go the spline drive route, after reading countless forums, blog posts, watching fat Jim talk about oil pumps and shit it seems the general consensus is that the spline drive needs the motor to have perfect tolerances, etc. Most of the time when we build motors, we all end up line boring the block, this "generally" shifts the crank position by a bee's dick and because your oil pumps cannot be shifted that direction by whatever you end up unevenly driving the spline drive. With my new motor for the shitbox, I just re-used the OEM NEO oil pump (which I believe it similar as a N1) and used the Spool billet gears. Crank was machined down, and the extended collar fitted with 2x grub screws. I also run a host of sensors and can log oil pressure vs. engine speed vs. oil temp and water temp for anyone interested. It's on a Haltech Elite with no additional boxes (no need to insert Haltech box jokes). Happy to post whatever data people want
  20. Now that conversion would be fun, put a dirty cam on it. Brap Brap Brap Brap lol
  21. http://www.pureautomotiveperformance.com/product/pure-2jz-swap-toyota-86-plug-play-package-motec-m130-stand-alone-obsidian-motorsports-group/ + motor, box, fab work Would be great fun
  22. Celebratory skid? It's standard SAU practice
×
×
  • Create New...