Dose Pipe Sutututu

Would be good in the future if you can also get EMAP data. Would make choosing a turbo easier for some.

Haha.. classic (Also guilty).

put the the house on DOGECOIN lol... (no don't do that).

and so will your pistons lol.

Suppose in your part of the world, however here in Australia, the Xtreme Twin Plate Organic is still cheaper than any Nismo or ATS clutch.

R35 shift times are woeful, garbage gearbox. If you could ZF8HP that, then it would be better (probably nearly impossible)

Best option. A cheaper option is a Xtreme Twin Plate, Organic Sprung Centre

I even asked ChatGPT 4 for you The RPM limit for an RB25DET head with hydraulic lifters, 80lb valve springs, and new valve guides typically falls around 7,000 to 7,500 RPM. Here are some key points to consider: 1. **Hydraulic Lifters**: Hydraulic lifters are generally more limited in high-RPM performance compared to solid lifters due to potential issues with lifter pump-up, which can cause valve float. This often caps the RPM limit around 7,000 to 7,500 RPM. 2. **Valve Springs**: The 80lb valve springs are an upgrade over stock and provide better control at higher RPMs, but they are still somewhat constrained by the limitations of the hydraulic lifters. 3. **Valve Guides**: New valve guides can improve the stability and longevity of the valve train, allowing it to handle higher RPMs more reliably, but they do not significantly raise the RPM limit imposed by the hydraulic lifters. In summary, while the 80lb valve springs and new valve guides enhance the performance and reliability of the head, the use of hydraulic lifters is the main limiting factor, keeping the safe RPM ceiling in the 7,000 to 7,500 range. For higher RPM capabilities, converting to solid lifters would be necessary, along with further upgrades to the valve train.

Welcome back Cnut 😘

Odd why you would need weight or anything like that, going to assume those Mustang dynos are just inertia dynos without any force / retarder applied to the rollers hence you need those numbers. Isn't there anyone with a normal modern dyno over there?

FWIW, I made 372kW on a Mainline dyno, with a stock motor (bar head studs & usual bolt ons) on E85 (pretty timid timing in the mid range) and it blew up after a year of track use. Probably got like 5~6 Wakefield track days and 1x skid pan somewhere in between.

I would be, however the last PS I owned was a PS1 and the last GT I played was GT1 lol. Also, how do you dads even have time to do anything? I barely have time to even sleep 7 hours a night!

Space X Falcon Heavy is ready for lift off

Did you pay using a credit card? If so, possible you could do a charge back?

can you check if this is an auto ECU?

Has this been converted to manual by any chance?

All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.

Best option, at least it's not an engine lottery. These NEO motors are close to 30 years old, they're doing ok.

I would avoid the AWD motor in a RWD using a modified RWD sump and pickup. The way the pick up is positioned, you'll have oil pick up issues on hard acceleration on a track around bends. Even with a baffled, gated sump. I suppose if you don't race on a track and it's used for straight line activities or street use you might be ok.

Once you go non OEM DBW e-throttle, you'll never go back to a cable throttle. Just so good in every single way.

Feels like most tend to keep it under 8000rpm for hydraulic lifters. Quick search on the net and those on Rennlist like to keep theirs under 7500rpm, Speed Talk under 8000rpm. Perhaps start to take timing out for 7250rpm and soft cut it by 8000rpm.

I recall you're going to launch the OEM ECU into the bin in another post, unpopular opinion but throw the AAC, IACV, cable throttle & pedal all into the bin and convert to DBW e-throttle & pedal. For quick install (minimum fab work) these guys have a great bit of kit: https://outsidergarage.com/products/nissan-rb25-oem-dbw-conversion-kit Hit up @outsidergarage for more details. (I'm not affiliated nor do I use them)

You need the fuel pressure gauge reading when the car is running and on boost. Revving it stationary doesn't tell you much. Get a wideband O2 installed, or borrow a portable one. Will show very valuable data.

Just a reminder for everyone 😂

I think way too many people get caught up in the whole bigger TB for more power, but that's only if it becomes a restriction. In a FI environment, the TB size is not as sensitive, where as in a NA environment, you find with the throttle at 100% and if the plenum still registers a vacuum, then your TB is undersized and requires to be upgraded.