Ryno

Depends on the runner diameter you go for... My MX Performance manifold has 1" runners and the response is incredible. More power everywhere compared to the stock manifold. But yes with a standard 6 Boost manifold, because of the larger diameter runners you will lose some response.

Actually looking at that graph again the 68mm line is deceiving as it's not peaking at the same high boost as early in the rev range and that's probably why it looks to be falling away from 160rwkw. The 100mm Takashi cooler clearly hits the wall at around 260rwkw of airflow though, and starts losing out to the PWR cooler from 180rwkw.

Your argument about 25 psi of boost is relevant but is probably confusing the point a little. It may be easier to think of it as the airflow limit of the intercooler... By using a larger turbo you could run into these same issues at a lower boost purely because the cooler can't flow the required amount of air. You can see from the above graphs, the 68mm cooler starts being a restriction (compared to the other two) at only 160 rwkw of airflow... That really is quite significant and I imagine most people that have that brand of intercooler, would make some decent gains by swapping it out.

Thanks mate, I've been in touch with Rick from Mojo Performance and he has informed me that the stock Nissan Dwell setting is around 2.5ms. So I will be fine to run the D585 coil without any risk of premature firing with the standard Power FC settings. Although you can get a better spark by increasing the dwell slightly, at 2.5ms I will still get better performance than stock or Splitfire coils, so no need to mess with it.

I had a similar problem that I lived with for years... Felt like a front wheel imbalance, but would come and go at different times. I finally fixed it when I swapped out the stock inner bushes (with Nolathane items) on the front lower control arms.

I love the response of the GTRS ~ With my setup I have 5 lb at 2000 rpm and full boost at 3k. But I realise the technology is getting a little old now. I'm wondering if there is a billet wheel turbo that has the same response but will give more power through the rev range.

How do you expect this latest high flow prototype to compare (in total power and response) to a HKS GTRS turbo?

I've used an Australian Tech Edge wideband kit for the last 18 months. It's permanently wired in with the sensor just in front of the cat. Very accurate and it hasn't missed a beat. Highly recommended!

I'd be curious to know the answer to this also... Pretty awesome results from a PWR core on the Hypergear thread

Wow, hopefully those upgrades will push you into the 9's... So close!

Last question I promise... Are you using the www.LS2RB.com coil bracket? If so, did you have any problems fitting the D514A coil? as I believe that bracket is designed to fit the D585 coil

So you're using the D514A with stock Nissan dwell settings? Also what plugs are you using?

Has anyone on here swapped to the LS2 coils while using a Power FC? I'm considering the swap and given the difficulty with changing the Power FC dwell settings, am wondering if the D514A coils will work fine on the stock Power FC dwell settings?

Very true, I had CP pistons put in my RB25DET and I don't believe the CR was checked.

4.08 ratio is what I've put in my R32... Another option for you.

Here is the link to the Power Steering DIY... http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/453968-R32-Heavy-Power-Steering---How-To-Disable-Speed-Variable-Assist-Steering-And-Control-Power-Assistance-Level%2E

I've just done up a DIY for the power steering fix, once it is approved by the moderators I will provide a link.

I've been asked to do a DIY on this simple fix to problems with the R32 Power Steering Assistance. Issue: After removing HICAS and installing a RB25DET engine in my R32 Skyline, the power steering computer no longer receives a speed input and puts the power steering into fail mode, which causes heavy steering approximately 30 seconds after you start driving. Tools Needed: Multimeter, Soldering iron and solder, Approximately 2m of wire, heat shrink, DC/DC Converter. Some basic electrical knowledge. Time to complete job: 1-2 hours. How the R32 Power Steering System Operates: The HICAS computer in the car alters the input voltage (depending on the vehicle speed) to the solenoid on the power steering rack. The solenoid has two wires going in, a voltage feed and an earth. The solenoid gives max assistance at 12 volts and the assistance reduces as you reduce the voltage. If you have a way to manually control this voltage level, you can adjust the voltage as required to give you the desired steering assistance. You don’t want to just wire in a 12 volt ignition feed direct to the solenoid as this would make the steering dangerously light at higher speeds and probably burn out the power steering solenoid over time. See picture below to identify the power steering solenoid. You will need to purchase a DC/DC Converter to allow you to manually reduce the voltage from a 12 volt (ignition feed). I purchased the below unit from Jay Car for around $20. The plug near the fuse box in this picture has the two wires coming from the power steering solenoid. Use a multimeter to identify which wire is the earth and which is the feed. Because I'm fussy and don't like seeing dodgy wiring, I lifted the fuse box and traced back the wiring 10 cm, so that my modification to the loom would be hidden under the fuse box. Leave the earth wire intact and cut the feed wire, then solder your length of wire to this and run it back inside the car through the port on the drivers side. This wire gets soldered to the output voltage of the DC/DC converter. You will just need to locate an earth and an ignition feed under the steering column for the two inputs. Here is me testing the output voltage of the DC/DC converter: The metal plate on the top of the DC/DC converter acts as a heat sink. The more effectively the heat sink works, the higher the current (at the set voltage) it can output. With that in mind I riveted the heat sink to a piece of aluminium and then used this as the bracket to bolt it in place. The idea being, that some of the heat will conduct to the chassis of the car and provide a higher and more stable current output. This should fix your power steering problems! I have found I like the setting at around 8 volts - it seems to give a nice level of assistance at low speeds, without being too light at high speeds. Of note: Make sure you connect the voltage input to the DC/DC converter from an ignition feed, if you use a live battery feed, it will drain your battery and probably burn out the solenoid as it will be operating all the time (even when the car is off).

I bought it through Nissan spare parts here in Australia. They found one in country (WA from memory) and got it in for me. I think it cost around $500, but not 100% sure.

Absolutely... all you are doing is intercepting and controlling the voltage going direct to the power steering rack. It's a very simple and effective fix.

I you want it to look stock, keeping it side mount is the only option. I also have a RB25DET in my R32 and with a R34 side mount I made 198rwkw with the stock turbo. Though if your plans are to high flow the turbo and shoot for 250 rwkw a front mount is the only option. So prepare to cut up your front bar and Reo. I've gone through all this in the past and after about half a dozen front bars, I now use a GTR bar and Reo. Neither have had to be modified in anyway and the intercooler hides behind the black mesh of the front bar. I have a build thread on here that may give you some ideas.

For years I've persisted with using 10W-40 weight oil as I believe that's what's recommend. Using that weight I've always experienced a slight amount of oil misting out through the front of the engine (cam shaft seals etc). Several seal changes over the years and different cam breather setups never fixed the issue. I recently changed to 15W-50 weight fully synthetic and the leaks appear to be gone.

Yes I've been driving it to work every day this week. At the moment I have it set on around 8 volts and the steering is nice and light. I'm just a bit frustrated that I've only fixed it now... It's such an easy solution, why the hell did I put up with crap steering for 10 years!?

You're absolutely right, by keeping the runner diameter smaller you are maximizing the gas speed at all times. This in turn will bring the boost on much earlier. A mate has a R32 setup up for drift which uses a MX Performance (small diameter runner) twin scroll and gate manifold. His RB26 produces around 400 rwkw with good response for drifting. So even at that power range the smaller runners are producing the goods.