KiwiRS4T

Different front and rear is ok but ask what is the offset - and some 350z have different front and rear wheels. One inch bigger with the same profile number they will be a lot bigger than what you have now. Yes your speedo will be out (not really a problem) but you should check how they are going to fit.

Shouldn't have to adjust pressure unless injectors were not up to the task and he was trying to push more fuel through.

Buy my stock rail - comes with stock OEM FPR!

What you need is a supercharger.

OEM. Low temp doesn't cool any better, just opens earlier so it takes longer for your engine to warm up.

You need to post up your location in your profile if you want a tuner that is not thousands of miles away.

I can sell you a stock rail for about $80 US posted or you should contact Scotty on this forum for an aftermarket one.

Sounds like your boost controller is faulty or set up wrongly. Can you borrow a manual boost T and see if its any different? Have you tried pressure testing your pipes?

It should work since you've shelled out for an accusump! The restrictors and sump breathers will help. Yes you "can" put in the "head drain" and you "can" paint flames on the mudguards but neither will do anything useful. In most cases vented catch cans are illegal so I'll give you 8 out of 10!

GTR has 6 x 1 bolts on the half shafts (GTST has 5 x 1) so you would need to use the half shafts as well - although i think they will bolt up to your existing hubs, If you can get the whole rear end c/w brakes that would be easier of course but maybe not cheaper than getting a Nismo diff. Have you confirmed that you do not have an LSD (jack up the car and turn one side by hand - the other should turn the same way for an LSD) or that it is not functioning properly (put your left hand side of the car in the loose and do a launch or perhaps something more scientific!)?

If your head is filling with oil the fitiing at the back of the head will do SFA wherever you send it. Have you done anything different such as fitting restrictors? If not its engine out and head and sump off.

Being poor I used hightemp oil resistant etc rubber lines.with hose clips. Pressures are low.

Also it is suggested that you don't use the loop at the back but put a lead between the coil and plug and use that...

I guess you haven't actually read any of that thread. If you had you would have seen that although it is labelled turbo upgrade thread it actually includes a number of rb26 rebuilds and compares more than just turbo choices. You will see some who have reconditioned with stock components and some who have forged engines etc etc - in short people who have made the deliberate decision to stick with the Rb26 - people you thought didn't exist.

I don't know why you say no -one talks about keeping the 2.6L capacity - if you go to the top of this section there is the RB26 turbo upgrade thread with 25 pages of people who have done just that. If you want a responsive stock looking 400kw have you considered an R35 GTR?

There is a flaw in your observations - the fact that you can make 500hp with stock heads doesn't mean that the ports are too big for lower power. Head work is critical for n/a motors but less so for force fed engines. The engine that makes 500hp would make a little more with improved head flow or conversely need less boost to make the 500. You can be sure that Nissan has done a lot of work on head design.

So how are you going to decrease the port diameters? Do a before and after dyno test! Would be a lot easier to up the boost a couple of psi and make more power that way.

I am not convinced that red badges denote "turbo". I know its all over the net but I am sure I know of someone with a red badged N/A R33 who told me what it stood for but that was quite a few years ago.

Doesn't matter where the 12v comes from - they earth through the ECU

I doubt it - I made 225AWKW on my 25DET with a GCG highflow and a Trust SMIC (although it went to 245AWKW with an HDi front mount).

Try running a wire from the battery - if that works at least you know what the problem is.

Despite the heading this is a picture of Rips 25 sump: http://www.ripsracing.com/catalog/Sumps-41/2WD-Steel-High-Capacity-Sumps-26.html

Measure your new cylinders and calculate the CR with the Neo head. Using the Neo had would be my choice unless the CR is 11:1 or something untunable.

Put it this way - with a heavy duty clutch I looked into fitting a booster but was too much trouble and never got round to it. On the other hand if there was one already fitted I can't think of any reason to get rid of it.

Yes if you have a non-return valve in it. No in my case because my two sump vents both act as breathers until the can starts to fill with oil then only the top one is a true breather while the bottom one does provide some pressure relief. I guess three lines, two to the top of the can and one to the bottom as a dedicated drain is theoretically better but in practice my two line system with no non return valve has been fine. "Filters" are illegal in most cases and I don't have one. My outlet goes to the turbo inlet pipe and if there was any evidence of oil getting in there I would put another air/oil separator in that line but there hasn't been a problem