GTSBoy

No. The pressure is a function of temperature. The boiling point of water (at sea level) is 100°C. At that temperature the vapour pressure created is 1 atmosphere (101.325 kPa). It is at that point that the steam can jump out of the liquid phase. But at all temperatures below 100°C (and above 0°C if you want to be fussy about only talking about the vapour pressure originating in the liquid phase) there is a vapour pressure. It is very low at low temperatures and it rises to 101.325 kPa at 100°C. And, it increases above 101.325 kPa as the temperature exceeds 100°C, if the water is in a trapped volume (ie, it can't flash to vapour because there is no room for it to do so). That last bit describes a cooling circuit perfectly. Put a 20 psi radiator cap on the top, which will relieve at 20 psi absolute (about 5.3 psi above atmospheric pressure, or ~36 kPa above atmospheric) and it will hold pressure right up until it reaches that temperature and pressure and then the cap will open to relieve the excess pressure, venting hot arse water out into the overflow. Open the cap when the engine is hot and the thermostast is open and you will instantly allow a quantity of water to flash to vapour, driving steam and hot arse water all over the place. This usually leads to 3rd degree burns and an extensive hospital stay, bill and use of morphine.

Simplest like for like fix? Head to wreckers, buy some from a Maxima or other highish spec Nissan of similar vintage to the R34. Quite possibly will have the same thing. Otherwise, you can buy all sorts of tweeters to suit split systems that you will have to create a mount of some sort to hold them in place of that original one. The tweeters you pictured do look absolutely tiny though, so you will not be wanting big dome tweeters. I'd recommend domes, but you'll definitely be looking at the small end. Maybe go off into the wild and look at something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Porsche-Cayenne-S-955-9PA-2004-Bose-Tweeter-Speaker-7L5035361A-J139/383880936628?hash=item5961163cb4:g:Vq8AAOSw~Jhf68Ls

Sigh. Why do you want to replace them? Dead? Want more?

Small ones.

ATF is thin and runny. That looks quite heavy.

I just (last month) bought a front and a rear for ~$40 each, right here in Australia, genuine Nissan parts.

Prolly just a little bit of non-acid silicone, or a PU type body sealer from 3M or Sika. I'm sure if you just go browse the shelves you'll see one that meets the requirements.

Valid question is valid. I think the answer is no, T25/8.

Take the socket over to the bench grinder.

yes and yes.

Note word with emphasis. It's a really weak if. The real recommendation is to improve the coils. Gapping down plugs is a bandaid. Bandaids should not be used where proper fixes exist.

Any fuel filter should do.

You likely have a bad earth somewhere. Or possibly the headlight switch or dip switch have dirty contacts. I had this happen when an exhaust pyro gauge was dying. It pulled the power in the console area low enough to drop the stereo out (and then as it died completely I couldn't start the car). I wouldn't suggest you have the same problem I did, just demonstrating that power issues have been seen to cause the same thing you're seeing. The headlights pull a lot of current. If that current can't get to earth (on the other side of the headlights) you might cause some weird voltage issue in the dash/console.

Yeah, it's true. But, when you look at it more objectively - 5 years ago it was worth ~$7k. If I had lost it then that's all I would have gotten. I'm no worse off now than I was then, so long as I don't want to replace it with another Skyline. And I'm pretty clear in my head that I don't want to buy anyone else's Skyline. Any good cars owned by any of you guys aren't likely to be for sale, and if they are you'll want US money for them. There's an opportunity cost/loss should it be written off compared to what I would get in pocket if insured for $30k. But again, that's only ~$20k, which is not really enough to make anyone cry into their beer. Would rather have it, but won't miss it.

Ah, well, there's the rub. They won't allow me to increase the value to >$10k unless I improve the garaging situation. Seeing as improving the garaging situation will cost >> than the possible loss on the car should it get destroyed, there would seem to be no point. It's bloody annoying actually, because the car is dailied it's about 1000x more likely to be written off by a meth-head in a delivery van than it is to be stolen by a meth-head in mismatched thongs. But, when I spoke to them about it, they would have been happy to put the value at some large number (nominally $25k for an R32, I guess) for only a small increment in premium.

I live in a bad postcode and my R32 is only 1/4 of that Shannons' quote, with Shannons. Which circle of hell are you garaging it in? Newcastle?

Or, you could straight to the thread https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/?do=getNewComment

Double f**k. Even that's wrong. Was supposed to be a response to another thread altogether! Ignore me.

f**k! Wrong thread. Supposed to go in your wheels thread.

Or, you could straight to the thread https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/?do=getNewComment

Hmm.... Newcastle spec non-sensor safe RTV.

This thread is about exhaust gaskets now.

The difference in cylinder distortion would be about 2% of any other possible f**kup that is usually made in putting an engine together. Is not to be worried about.

Just pretend you never made it.

More cleaning. Spray some Subaru upper engine cleaner into it, then some WD40. Do that a few times. The IACV can be annoyingly slow to come good, and a single cleaning attempt seldom gets it there. There is also a possibility that the speed signal is not working and that the neutral and clutch switches have not been wired up properly during the conversion. Any and all of these things can cause weird rev behaviour on decel transition to idle.