GTSBoy

If they've angled the BOV return towards the comp inlet properly there's no real reason why it should be significantly noisier than the stocker. The BOV noise is really generated at the BOB itself, not where it exits into the inlet pipe. Hard inlet pipese have a reputation (and a reality) of making the turbo spool/induction noise harder and louder, but I've never heard anyone claim it should make the BOV noise louder. And, ultimately.....who cares? If you want a loud BOV, then get a hybrid one and vent some.

I can't see any reason why not. The brackets all bolt to the block, no involvement with the head, and the block is the same. The drive belt arrangements on the front should all be same same. Nissan didn't use different shit between different chassis if they could avoid it, let alone on the same basic engine in the same car.

Yeah, I was gunna say this. I'm not sure what the path to failure would look like for a mistreated SSR. As zoomzoom says above, when they float between on and off they consume a lot of power themselves and will get hot, which could fail gracefully..... or in a fire. I also don't know how much abuse (intensity &/or duration) they can cop. Arguably, switching them at hundreds of Hz for many hours is an enormous number of state changes. 2000 hours at 100Hz is 720 million state changes. It's probably OK.....but it sounds like it adds up quick. It would take a few years of commuting to get 2000 hours. 2000 hours of track use would either come much sooner or never, depending on the type of track usage. A truck would do 2000 hours in ~6 months. I'm not shitcanning the idea, just mentioning that I think it is not the way that they are intended to be used.

Sooooooo......they're not stock.

This is one of those situations where I would just Nistune the ECU and put in some Bosch ID14 based injectors. The car will 11ty times better afterwards. Staying stock just for the "niceness" factor is a bad idea when the niceness really doesn't exist except in your mind.

Well, either it will have a little extra adjustment below the advertised minimum and you will be absolutely fine, or, it will not, and you will end up with 40 psi which will fatten your mixtures up a tiny bit.

Yeah, but I think there's a difference between using them as relays and just simply switching the big loads on and off at normal rates, vs. banging them on and off hundreds of times per second. I think the Jaycar SSR switching rate that you mention is not "you can drive it this fast". I think it is "It will change output state this fast after you change the input state".

I'm a little bothered by the suggestion of PWM through SSRs. Conventionally when doing PWM you use a fixed frequency, something in the order of 500Hz would be common** for simple DC power control. You then vary the width of the pulses to control the delivered "power". But that means that the SSR is literally switching on and off at 500Hz (unless you get it to either 0% or 100% ends of the PWM). And AFAIK, SSRs are not meant to be switched that fast. Anything high power PWM just sounds to me like the output side should be actual MOSFETs (or other transistory devices that like being switched fast) not SSRs that, whilst they may have MOSFETs inside, don't necessarily like being driven that fast. You look at any circuit designs for high power DC PWM and you don't see any SSRs. You see FETs. Lots of FETs. **but obviously other PWM applications might like to run at many kHz, and AC PWM control should either be implemented at the same frequency as the supply, or some lower frequency with careful controls in place to prevent DC draw on the mains supply from halfwave switching etc.

It's really more a question of how big the fuel pump is, not the amount of power the engine makes. The limiting case is when you are making near full power and using almost all the fuel pump capacity. In that case the reg is going to need to be very nearly closed to keep pressure control, possibly leading to the sawtooth I described above. That same engine and pump, at idle or crusing, is going to need to return a lot of fuel back to the tank, so the reg will be more open and pressure control will probably be fine. The capacity of the reg is 100% a function of the capacity of the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is a decent size, you'll probably be OK. If the fuel pump is gasping at your 350 whp, then it might not be so rosy. Very hard to say without trying it. If your pump has higher capacity than stock, then more than likely it will be fine. But no warranty is issued or implied!

A somewhat rare beast these days though, no?

Um, I think you mean that Slap doesn't get it. I didn't say that Vic had regular inspections. My comment was a very general "The absence of regular inspections does not mean it is legal to do dodgy shit". Applies anywhere that there are rules but not regular inspections to enforce them. The stupid rules in Vic that I refer to are more the ones where they have said a blanket thing like "no more than 3 inlet tract mods" and enforce that regardless of whether the mods are just a different filter or a much bigger turbo or intercooler. That sort of prescriptive regulation is just f**king daft. Here in SA you can get anything engineered (as long as an engineer will sign off on it) like in most other states, and you can do other mods that might require engineering in other states without engineering if it meets Regency's advised requirements. Which is nice - it is how you can do things like fit big brakes or bigger engines from later versions of the same car without quite as much stuffing around as in NSW, for example. But it's not a license to do dumb shit.

That's quality information. The kernel is probably that ~$1000 of porting work gained a pretty good 20 - 25 cfm across the lift range. An important thing for readers to keep in mind is that the peak numbers on your table/chart are at 1/2" lift and there has probably never been an RB with that much lift. 9-10mm being most common, 10-11 mm being on the extreme side. Doesn't affect the exhaust side so much, but it nibbles away at the cfm number for the inlet by about 10-15 cfm. Question: "Race Seats" on the scanned paperwork. Implies they were set up properly, multi-angle or radiused or similar? The seats can have a huge impact on the flow - more than the port itself, especially at low lifts.

Absolutely not true. The rules are more stupid in Victoriastan, but you do have to comply with the rules here. The absence of regular inspections does not mean it is legal to do dodgy shit. You just won't get caught until you get caught.

And realistically, we should not be supporting this "do it skimp" mentality. Shitty modified cars are bad for all of us. You live in f**king Victoria for f**k's sake. You should understand more than anyone else what it is to try live in a nazi control freak environment if you happen to like modded cars. If you want to help and encourage people to modify vehicles on the skimp, please do it to another make and model, so the cops don't associate our cars with flatbrim toothless single pegger fuctards.

A regulator that can handle 1000HP worth of fuel has a very large flow passage in it. When you try to run it with a smaller pump at much lower power levels, the regulator's valve might end up running very close to the seat in order to maintain the pressure setting and this can lead to unstable pressure control. If the mismatch is severe enough the valve will have to close to get the pressure up, then it will have to burp open because the closed valve is not regulating pressure, it's just allowing it to rise. So instead of a steady servo-controlled pressure, you get a nasty saw-tooth pressure.

What? A piece of alloy SHS?

I'm not sure there's an advantage to retaining 20-30 yo wiring and plugs and trying to desolder them from the old module and build them onto your new board and be constrained by them needing to be in the same place to poke out through the same holes in the casing.....when some new decent connectors and a proper extruded alloy housing to screw the MOSFETs onto and freedom to lay the board out the way it needs to sound like things worth having.

Ask Volkswagen.

Would this not describe just about all the aftermarket variable speed fuel pump controllers out there?

Can you detail the extent of the porting and the cost? Also the intent of the build, power target, expected rev range, any of those things if you had them when you went into it?

^ This, and all the this. It's amazing how much coke'n'hookers people are willing to go without just to do something that that others have already done and pronounced to be the hard way to achieve the goal. It's like rooting the ugly best friend to get to the hot chick. Some would boast about getting 2x roots. Some would want to keep the first one quiet. Some would just go around the ugly chick. And this especially. I have done it all. Manual conversion on R32, followed years later by 25 conversions. Money spent probably far exceeds what it would have cost to dispose of the 32 early on and replace with a 34. By the same token.....if you average out what the car has cost me over the last 20 years, my wife's various SUVs have probably cost 3x as much. So I consider it to be a hung jury decision on value.

Adjustable arms will do NOTHING to improve ride comfort, compared to stockers. Almost all of them either have spherical joints or harder rubber/urethane bushes, so will usually make it stiffer and noisier. Sphericals being the worst for that, and not particularly legal, either. The reason** to put adjustable arms (on the rear) to be able to dial out excessive camber that may be there because the car is somewhat lower on dropped coilovers. You need upper arms and traction rods to be able to adjust that out. Note that this is not a trivial exercise. Search for words posted on these forums (by me and others) regarding bump steer. **OK, there are other reasons, including just wanting to be able to choose how much camber you run, instead of being trapped with whatever you've got +/- 0.2°. Adjustable lower arms at the rear are strictly unnecessary unless you are going all the way over the top race/drift spec. If you didn't have HICAS, your stock toe arms would already be adjustable - that's what they're for! At the front, I would run spherical jointed adjustable caster rods (despite the illegality) simply because of how much better they locate the lower arms. You have Mac struts in the front, yes? So there are no other arms that you need to change. Adjustable lower ones are only for drift spanking and you can get adjustable strut tops to give you enough camber & caster adjustment for most needs.

Take the thermostat out and replace it with a large washer or other restrictor and run it again. See if it behaves the same when you absolutely know there is coolant flowing.

I went even more baller and used the R34 Neo trans cooler as my PS cooler!

Just check that that cooler out the front is actually in the transmission cooling lines and is not actually the power steering cooler. I'm not too familiar with what they look like on R33s, but on R32s, the auto fluid only went through the bottom of the rad and the power steering cooler was just a loop of pipe out in front of the radiator. Not a proper finned heat exchanger like in your photo, but not a lot different in size. Is there a separate loop of pipe out there somewhere for your PS?