Duncan

I remember Jetwreck had a similar problem with his M35, don't remember him ever getting to the bottom of it. What do you mean you " had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box,". You don't list a car in your profile, is it a 33 GTR or something else? And, is this the 4wd harness adapter you are talking about https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/ And, what do you mean by a RWD TPS, what is it out of? *edit* one more question....what is the rear diff?

Well, the good news is 70k+ is apparently very achievable these days. Even damaged/auction cars have been selling at over 50k for wreckers to fix and flip to unsuspecting buyers. From there, to me it depends on whether you intend to keep it and what level of funds you have to put into it. If you are keeping it you get it running with whatever parts you can and swap back to stock over time (if that is your thing) as you come across parts at a less stupid price. If you are looking to make money you should decide right now if you have 30-50k and a couple of years to put into it. Otherwise put up for sale exactly as it is and let someone in the trade do it, you can still get a surprising amount as is for a shell with a VIN (especially as it has a motor too)

Do you mean the reservoir feed and return under the car? I would try Nissan, I know the 2 hoses inside the rear quarter are available as I replaced mine recently.

Well done, it has to be nice to get to the end of the racing year with that sort of success!

I don't know (mine is custom) but I would expect all C34 Stagea to be the same from catback. Potentially front and rear pipe different between S1 and S2 with different motor but all the rest of the chassis stayed the same

I'm not willing to click on any unlabelled external link; but I assume it is a hand held device intended to replace a wife

Very complex piece of work there, will be good to see how it goes. Is the front bar just going to slide in on pegs and be retained somehow?

Yeah so the Skid Factory on Youtube has some good coverage of this exact issue on a Z32 this week. Basically at the caliper there is a short curtly hard line which terminates at that bracket, then a rubber line with a mount in the middle that goes to a stud on the strut tower then the rubber line continues to a bracket at the chassis where it meets the hard line. As GTSBoy said, at the caliper end the bracket is deletable, and depending on the caliper you either keep the factory flared end or convert to a banjo fitting with copper washers at the caliper. Generally the line is cable tied to the strut in a similar location to the factory line's stud; I've never seen aftermarket lines with the factory style mount to the strut. It is important the brake line is mounted to the strut because it is a fixed distance between the caliper and the strut, but you need plenty of movement between the strut and the chassis to allow for full wheel travel.

Agreed on both counts...depending on engine builder opinion and clearances a lighter oil might lower the pressure at cold idle but presumably 100psi is your oil relief spring pressure and is not dangerously high

Well done, first start is always nervous but great feeling when you've done it yourself. Now remember not to panic when the oily hand marks all over the turbo and exhaust manifold start smoking after a couple of minutes of running

Yeah interesting approach. Even the 32R workshop manual says not to re-use a lot of hardware I'm not a believer, I only replace head and rod bolts, other stuff just gets torqued to spec.

Yeah they are frameless, this is kind of similar to a recent R33 question. The faster you go the more wind noise Having said that, damaged seals will make it worse so it is kind of relative. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find new (or new old stock) seals for these.

Starter motor has big (unfused) pos from the battery and small start 12v from the key to the solenoid Alternator should have a plug, plus a large stud that goes to battery 12v and a small earth that goes onto the alternator body. Models vary a little so hard to be more specific, generally the pos stud is M6 (10mm nut) and the earth is M5 (8mm head bolt). Put the Pos stud on the earth spot and you'll get good sparks

Oh that is my favourite, done it more than once

100% put on the intake and exhaust manifold including turbos if possible, way easier to do all that on a stand I've got one of those levellers but I agree ratchet straps are a much better solution (or a second pair of hands). The levellers take up a lot of space and don't give as much flexibility as it looks for angle (you need to start within the right range of adjustment, and that bloody handle will impact engine when you try and adjust it anyway

I reckon not, performance or not they get slung together by a person that does the same tasks every 90 seconds for 8 hours. I'll bet replacing an occasional engine in warranty is just an understood cost of doing business, most of the time they are lucky, sometimes they are not.

Yeah, in theory the exhaust side is better for a drain due to crankshaft rotation. On the intake side any oil returning gets thrown up at the windage tray not down at the sump. No idea if it makes any real world difference

thanks Josh, that is exactly what I was trying to get at, I just wasn't aware of the term or method. Please fix this one instead of reducing the parts remaining in a small pool! Edit: sorry, to be clear, the fuel release end in the 32 is a plastic catch in a plastic thread which cracks....I could not see a practical way of fixing that beyond 3d design and printing which is outside my skill set

Welcome to SAU!

The R34 cable is longer but it doesn't matter, because as long as the ends are in the right place there is just a bigger loop in the rest of the cable. I see a worldwide shortage of 34 fuel door release cables starting very soon. Australia's stock already sold out 3 months back

I have an R34 one in my 32, but that is because the other end at the fuel door broke (plastic in 32, steel in 34). Is the 2nd pic a temporary fix? I think it is repairable, I'm not sure of the method but it would be worth either checking around or getting an instrument repairer to look at it

....expensive

Wow, they are pretty....

Lol, that might be a record, even for you

Sorry to be unclear, I meant that the fog lights from your questions 2 and 3 are also part of the winter pack. Generally, a bunch of rust is also part of that pack so please check the car out carefully including removing the door mirrors to check underneath. Mine has the winter pack too and despite being rescued from snowy parts more than 20 years ago the door mirrors still needed repair. There is no factory way to dim the dash lights. It is possible to fit a dimmer if it does trouble you, for a while adding one was part of compliance when cars came into Australia. You basically just add a variable resistor into the wire that supplies power to the dash backlight globes