Duncan

Yeah that is fine, you can change one cap at a time. If it was my engine however I would treat every bolt as suspects (why would just one break?) and replace every bolt either with new nissan parts or switch to cam studs

Yeah I run a Optima Yellow D51R in mine too, for the same reason with below zero mornings. It sits lengthways between the headlight and fusebox and uses factory terminals and cable length, although the fuse box is slight further back since I changed to front facing plenum

Any date hybrid will be available for import under the new regs (you can import any approved BEV, PHEV or HEV these days) so the lack of 2019+ would just be what importers have chosen to bring in for resale; if you used a broker to import it you can get any hybrid spec. Not on topic for this but I have the same hybrid driveline in my highway cruiser Fuga and it has plenty of go. In this case I am investigating something I'd modify which (practically) rules out the hybrid version. I looked into it but there is no easy path for more power, I've already got uprev to add hybrid ecu support for tuning but not surprisingly it made no useful difference in an NA car. I have not seen any recorded issues around porous blocks since very early models, my guess is whatever went wrong in the casting has been fixed long ago and I bet the affected cars have new motors by now. Even the turbos seemed to be an issue with the wastegate shaft/bushing wearing not a core turbo issue. It looks like the VR30DDTT is happy to make 500hp+ pretty easily (70% more than factory for base model!), the question I can't really get to the bottom of yet is how reliable are they. You always hear about the unhappy (unlucky?) people, but not all the people who just added a tune and are zooming around with no problems. And of course with the Z's arrival there will be a lot more aftermarket support and people pushing the platform.

Thanks Colin. FWIW at least one post 2019 Q50 Red Sport is available locally already: https://justjap.com/collections/collection-vehicle/products/nissan-skyline-v37-400r-vr30ddtt-low-25-xxxkm#description Please don't buy it before I get a chance to check it out

Yeah I've got FFP on my manual converted s1 and the standard throttle and TPS were OK, and 4wd is working fine with the Link with no adapter (although, the shop may have done the famous "secret squirrel tweak")

Bit slow to respond to this. I remember reading an earlier version of that article before I rewired the race car, including adding a PDM which covers almost pretty much circuit in the car (only remaining fuses and relays are the engine bay ones.)t, and keep in mind a race/rally car does need a few extras that Nissan didn't consider (rallysafe, boost logger, comms, logger dash etc) Ultimately, in my opinion, how serious you need to be in your race car is a trade off between cost and need for reliability. I underwent the rewiring because I had added a bunch of stuff on top of 30 year old factory wiring and I was starting to have intermittent issues. Going back to a clean slate was actually simpler than continuing to build on build on build on mods. Outcome wise, it was excellent. I made one error in the design (the kill switch requires power to operate, but the kill switch killed the PDM :rofl:). I bought a brand new factory engine loom as I use a plug in Platinum Pro (pre prod car regs), but removed a lot of unnecessary wires, and also a brand new engine sub loom. Other than that I properly planned, routed and protected all the new wiring, as well as adding high quality sealed switches for circuits (these days I would use CAN keypads, if only Haltech supported that on PPro). There is lots of detail and pics deep in my build thread about how I went about it, but the key things were: - All new plugs were Deutsch for quality, reliability and flexibility (easy to reconfigure if required). I used DTP for high loads like ATTESSA and fuel pumps, DTM for light loads like sensors and DT as well, all decided based on the maximum current required for the circuit. - All new wire wire was raychem 44 (tefzel) in 2 sizes. It is all white, not because I wanted that but because it was totally impractical to buy unknown lengths of multiple colours up front. I bought 10m each of AWG20 and AWG22 and have some left of each - All wires were labelled with a heatshrink printer (per the article) near either end of the wire, with clear raychem over the label. That has worked really well for traceability and lasted well - Most runs were complete new pin to pin so no joining was required, but where they weren't I used crimps with integral heat shrink. They come in standard red, blue and yellow sizes and also R/B and B/Y adapters where required - Everything is in split loom with electrical tape sealing the ends (and a small cable tie securing the tape), not heat shrink or epoxy sealed like in that article. I'm sure that is great for the super serious guys but I need to be able to pull stuff apart and fix it if I get it wrong Plus those heatshrink boots cost an absolute bomb. Any time I used a crimp on connector outside a plug (eg earth ring or battery connection) I used double wall heat shrink for strain relief.

Nice, I'll check that info out too, thanks.

Thanks mate, thought you might have the information Unconfirmed but the only supposed physical differences are the speed sensor on the turbos and something around a second water pump...no idea what that means yet, maybe the intercoolers each have their own pump on the red sport, I can't see why the engine coolant would need anything unusual as it is a mechanical one

Well, the clue was there But no-one guessed it! Internet mechanicing fail On the bright side, at least the car was misfiring instead of running lean enough to kill the engine, so that is a win.

Yeah 6x6.5 is pretty decent workspace as long as there is only 1 car in it, it's so nice to have space to work

I'm trying to find out what spec the Q50/Q60 were sold with in Australia compared to Japanese market V37. In particular, I think the 400hp version (Japanese 400R) was sold here as "Red Sport", is that correct? Is it also correct that only the hybrid was sold here with 4wd (noting that seems to be the case for Jap V37 as well, although strangely the 300hp VR30 seemed to be available with 4wd in the US, but not the 400hp) Also, if anyone is aware of mechanical differences between the 300hp and 400hp models that would also help. Looking at you @sonicii

I remember Jetwreck had a similar problem with his M35, don't remember him ever getting to the bottom of it. What do you mean you " had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box,". You don't list a car in your profile, is it a 33 GTR or something else? And, is this the 4wd harness adapter you are talking about https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/ And, what do you mean by a RWD TPS, what is it out of? *edit* one more question....what is the rear diff?

Well, the good news is 70k+ is apparently very achievable these days. Even damaged/auction cars have been selling at over 50k for wreckers to fix and flip to unsuspecting buyers. From there, to me it depends on whether you intend to keep it and what level of funds you have to put into it. If you are keeping it you get it running with whatever parts you can and swap back to stock over time (if that is your thing) as you come across parts at a less stupid price. If you are looking to make money you should decide right now if you have 30-50k and a couple of years to put into it. Otherwise put up for sale exactly as it is and let someone in the trade do it, you can still get a surprising amount as is for a shell with a VIN (especially as it has a motor too)

Do you mean the reservoir feed and return under the car? I would try Nissan, I know the 2 hoses inside the rear quarter are available as I replaced mine recently.

Well done, it has to be nice to get to the end of the racing year with that sort of success!

I don't know (mine is custom) but I would expect all C34 Stagea to be the same from catback. Potentially front and rear pipe different between S1 and S2 with different motor but all the rest of the chassis stayed the same

I'm not willing to click on any unlabelled external link; but I assume it is a hand held device intended to replace a wife

Very complex piece of work there, will be good to see how it goes. Is the front bar just going to slide in on pegs and be retained somehow?

Yeah so the Skid Factory on Youtube has some good coverage of this exact issue on a Z32 this week. Basically at the caliper there is a short curtly hard line which terminates at that bracket, then a rubber line with a mount in the middle that goes to a stud on the strut tower then the rubber line continues to a bracket at the chassis where it meets the hard line. As GTSBoy said, at the caliper end the bracket is deletable, and depending on the caliper you either keep the factory flared end or convert to a banjo fitting with copper washers at the caliper. Generally the line is cable tied to the strut in a similar location to the factory line's stud; I've never seen aftermarket lines with the factory style mount to the strut. It is important the brake line is mounted to the strut because it is a fixed distance between the caliper and the strut, but you need plenty of movement between the strut and the chassis to allow for full wheel travel.

Agreed on both counts...depending on engine builder opinion and clearances a lighter oil might lower the pressure at cold idle but presumably 100psi is your oil relief spring pressure and is not dangerously high

Well done, first start is always nervous but great feeling when you've done it yourself. Now remember not to panic when the oily hand marks all over the turbo and exhaust manifold start smoking after a couple of minutes of running

Yeah interesting approach. Even the 32R workshop manual says not to re-use a lot of hardware I'm not a believer, I only replace head and rod bolts, other stuff just gets torqued to spec.

Yeah they are frameless, this is kind of similar to a recent R33 question. The faster you go the more wind noise Having said that, damaged seals will make it worse so it is kind of relative. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find new (or new old stock) seals for these.

Starter motor has big (unfused) pos from the battery and small start 12v from the key to the solenoid Alternator should have a plug, plus a large stud that goes to battery 12v and a small earth that goes onto the alternator body. Models vary a little so hard to be more specific, generally the pos stud is M6 (10mm nut) and the earth is M5 (8mm head bolt). Put the Pos stud on the earth spot and you'll get good sparks

Oh that is my favourite, done it more than once