Duncan

Given that you've looked for other excess and have the sump off, I would put it back on without excessive sealant and never think about it again

Thanks for (re)sharing all the details. I've lost multiple engines due to oil pressure issues and am always interested in what we can all do to avoid it. I don't mean this as finger pointing, but the fact it was apart and re-assembled says most likely the issue was something in that process either missing/wrong/dirty because we know when it is all good engines don't fail with such light use. I think that is more likely than the sump simply being emptied by the oil pump, particularly when no g forces were involved and you've done key things like enlarged head oil returns in the block. If the head had enough oil in it to empty a 5l sump it would have been spitting oil out the breathers like crazy

Better move quick then, only 11 days left!

Thanks, I'll talk to Just Jap about the JSAI stuff. In this case i am looking for OK/not crap but I don't really need it to be good because it is kind of sacrificial. And thanks for the offer on something made properly like you said I assume the freight would be a killer, same possibly even worse for guards with their shape

Can you remind us history of the bottom end, was it stock (with nitto pump) or had it been rebuilt (in which case there are potential issues with clearances, oil gallery plugs, crank oil passage cleanliness etc) Was everything OK until high rev, high load runs on the dyno? Is the head and returns all stock too? There is an old thread out there on engine failures which was a helpful place to store learnings

Since 32 GTR front end parts are not on Nissan heritage yet and genuine second hand are going for drug money as a result, I'm looking into fibreglass, but OEM style, guards and bonnet for the rally car Any suggestions on suppliers with reasonable quality, preferably NSW/ACT?

I don't have a car handy to swing around under, but definitely if the stop is missing/damaged or the switch is mis adjusted, the brake lights stay on rather than off. I've had to replace the rubber piece in 2 cars now for this reason (our old navara worked the same way)

Welcome to the forums!

The brake switch pushes on a little rubber piece on the pedal itself; if that brakes or falls out, the lights stay on. Have a look at the clutch pedal in comparison and you'll see where the switch pushes

DOES IT ALWAYS MAKE THE NOISE OR JUST WHEN YOU SHIFT FASTER. IF YOU GO FIRST TO NEUTRAL THEN LET CLUTCH OUT THEN BACK IN AND SHIFT TO SECOND DOES IT HAPPEN

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY SNATCHES DOES IT CRUNCH

Don't do it; get a windscreen guy to do it for you. Even the guys doing this every day often break the screen on the way out, plus, getting a pro to do it is cheap

Lol I would have thought you can't have too much run off on the side of a mountain, but I guess that's a discussion for another day

I've never noticed a cap with the logo cast different to the others (but then I've also never dealt with rb20 rods). In any case the numbering on the rod end and cap show what is was machined for and you said yours was correct. Suspicious that the rod with the bearing problem had this but co-incidence is still an option. For the oil pump, I think you were putting this in a street car, right? Nissan engineers knew there were issues with the oil pump engagement from a short crank since at least 1992, so their decision to keep them for another 10 years shows they were not causing trouble in regular engines for road use. Unless you are building this for big turbo power, stick with the short crank nose and just put it back together (and don't drive around on the rev limiter!) Re that bearing, if you are disassembling the whole engine clean out the crank oil galleries thoroughly, there could be an oil feed issue to that journal

Is pikes peak paved all the way to the top these days? You definitely need to address the hubs because the driveshaft keeps them on. I've never done this but assume R32 GTST front uprights and hubs are the simple solution. More information on the car would be interesting, perhaps even motorsport build thread over here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/272-motorsport-builds/

No, sure enough p CH-54 mentions the sealant on the 3 bolts but no torque settings. It is listed on SD-11 though

CH-88 in the manual

A miss is as good as a mile...but keep in mind you may not be able to fit balancing weights on the wheel if it is very tight also, rocks can get lodged and gouge the inner rim when it is very close too....I don't care on the race car but it might be an issue for road (or carpark) use

yeah I think the expensive ones are too smart. they decide there is nothing there to charge when the battery is very flat so you need to just get some juice into it through an old fashioned method first. Obviously they are a good thing once you get to a full battery because they more carefully manage the volts and amps when it is getting right up there

Not really sure of the order you are thinking, but you need front plate with chosen clutch pivot and xfer case on before you fit it in the car. Yes you can fill the gearbox and transfer case before you install it, and no you won't lose any (or much) oil if you do it that way

Run the charger in power supply mode for a couple of hours and see if that shocks it out of dead. The smart chargers decide not to charge if they think the battery is not ready for a charge.

By far the easiest and most accurate way to deal with the speedo issue is a GPS module for the ECU. If you have HICAS (but who does?!?!) you might need to output from the ECU to pin 53

Well, mine is a sample of 1, but unfortunately mine we the odd one out ECU that was only used for a month

Yeah the ECU was perfect, wasn't a problem until I started modifying.

Sorry I don't have specifics, but I ran my manual conversion on the original ECU for some time. I believe that bridging the park switch was the only thing required