Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...

Hi guys I'm new here just bought a Nissan 1989 gx skyline only done 15000 km in immaculate condition just want to know what I can do to turbo it I'm new to tho site and don't know much

Any help would be great

If you want to put a twin cam head on it read the thread in this section. If you just want to put a turbo on your current engine start by googling "+T on an RB30" - that should get you on the way.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys going to pick up a series 2 vl block tomorrow for my r33, and the bloke reckons it's got stock s2 pistons with cut outs to suit the rb25head, I've tried searching but havent found anything about cutting down stock pistons, only swapping them out or decking, can this be done and I've found a good deal? Or is he talking crap to try flog it off quick. Or have a I confused myself and by cutting down he means it's been decked already?

He means the stock rb30 pistons have the valve reliefs to suit the 25 head.

As they all do.

Which you can tell by looking at the pistons there are 4 reliefs.

Due to the layout of the rb30 head.

Good luck with the build.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

I bought this turbo (only oil cooled, not water cooled) (with an internal wastewater) for my r32 gtst skyline, with rb30 bottom end & rb25 head. My mechanic reckons its no good has a million different reasons as to why which to me this makes no sense. Im not to sure what this turbo as the guy that i bought it off had it for an upgrade was unsure what it was off.

I Googled all the numbers on the back which said it was for a 9.0L scania diesel.

Edited by xoajk172

Still school holidays still on so not sure if 9 year old buuuuuuuuuuuuuutttt........ I agree with mr mechanic, piss it off and get a turbo that is actually designed for a 3.0L PETROL engine as opposed to a 9.0L DIESEL engine! Buy a ching lingalong copy turbo off ebay and you'll be a lot better off.

  • Like 1

I understand where your coming from with the lag n that. I took the turbo, manifold n wastegate to another mechanic today, whos got an r32 and owned a few skylines, and he said his mate has one with a bigger rear compressor wheel and he says its really good, it just depends on what you want out of the car,, and im jist looking for as much power as i can get. I just want to hear what everyones opinion that way i can keep my options over... But thanks for the advice..

Do some research on here first BEFORE you buy anything otherwise you'll just be wasting money. Check the other RB30 threads on turbos and see what power people are making with certain turbos and choose that way, A mate of a mate offloading a turbo is a bit risky unless you know what it is. When you say bigger compressor wheel, bigger than what?

  • Like 1

How about we find out what the turbo is before we doom it to the recycling bin ?

Post up pics of it and the link to where you found out its for a scania

The Holset HX35 turbo is what comes on my truck but has produced good results on RB25s

What is the part number, with a stroke of luck its a GT3782

http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/applications/trucks/scania/

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

OK, been chasing a RB30 twin cam belt while abroad, and had a bad time, i worked out that Audi / VW do have the 153 tooth belt for the 1.8t engine as stated early in this thread but there was no part number!

so the part number is...

058109119c
Dayco 94407 belt from Audi / VW. should get it tomorrow.
  • 5 months later...
  • 11 months later...
2 hours ago, Dan_J said:

grind/ face off the old rb30 number and engrave/ stamp a 25 number off a broken 25 

technically you cant legally register a rb30 as its an older engine in a newer body 

Actually there's no technical or legal reason why you can't.

There is no Law against an older engine in a newer car. What the law does state is that the emissions must meet that of the newest items, either the car, or the engine.

Therefore if you drop all the RB25 emissions gear on, the setup is fine.

Depending on state you may need an engineers cert for the capacity increase.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On 12th June, the mechanic could not figure out what the issue was, but the car seems to be flooding with fuel. He was suspecting the tune, thus referred me to a tuner. Although the tuner is not familiar with Nistune, last Monday (30th June), he came over to try and re-map it. Despite the tuner trying to completely stop fuel, it kept sounding like it was pushing fuel. Tuner ended up suspecting either the ECU or Injectors. I do not believe the ECU or Nistune is the issue, as the Nistune software reads and communicates properly. Today, I removed the (new) injectors to see if they are clogged or leaking. Surprisingly enough, after those 3 days of driving, injectors 2 and 3 look very blocked. You can see the difference in the picture. I blew a bit on 3, that is why it doesn't look as clogged as 2. I am still unsure if this is what is causing the no start issue, but I am now feeling that I may have bought the injectors and Nistune without the need to do so, as the problem seems to be coming from somewhere else.  
    • haha this shit box doesn't drink coolant, for now       Let me guess, they make heaps of power, use the car for straight line driving and don't care about noise
    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
×
×
  • Create New...