Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah basically.

And if you fail the test - you've done your dough and have to pay the fee again. I wish it was just a simple IM-240 test like NSW (a 15min job), rather than full ADR testing we VICs have to deal with

Yer i was lucky enough when i took my car there guy just said come back again, didnt take my money which was handy so i didnt need 2 tests lol

  • 3 weeks later...

just wondering whats the deal with drilling small-ish ?

thinking about drilling two 3cm or so holes where the battery tray/ ripples start and where the tubs finish to mount a bigger oil cooler... if i plan to

thanks

just wondering whats the deal with drilling small-ish ?

thinking about drilling two 3cm or so holes where the battery tray/ ripples start and where the tubs finish to mount a bigger oil cooler... if i plan to

thanks

If the car has ABS - it's a flat no-no.

If the car is non-ABS, as long as you reinforce the underside of the holes, it's no problem.

I just got a RWC report done on my R33 and it states "Exhaust system cat back too low" which I don't believe to be true as I've got standard springs and the car passed the last RWC to which I haven't changed anything since. I questioned the RWC workshop and they said I would need to produce evidence of this.

So I called Vic Roads to ask them if they could run the height clearance trolley under my car and issue a report to which they said they can only do this for defected cars. I then asked the operator what the required clearance is but she didn't know exactly, but said to use the height of a 'Coke can' (130mm) as a guide.

I did a bit of digging around and according to Vic Roads VSI 8 under Section 4. Ground Clearance:

The ground clearance of a vehicle measured from a horizontal road surface to any point

on the underside of the vehicle except the tyres, wheels, wheel hubs and brake backing plates

shall, with the vehicle in its loaded state as specified by the manufacturer, be not less than:

  • for any point in the width of the vehicle which is within one metre fore and aft of any axle, 100mm;
  • for the mid-point between any two consecutive axles, the dimension in millimetres obtained by multiplying the distance in metres between those two axles by 33.33.

I checked the ground clearance and the lowest point on my car (cat back) is 105mm.

Second to this, I calculated the mid-point clearance by multiplying the distance between the axles (2.8m) by 33.33, which equals 93.324mm

Therefore, by my calculations I am within the legal ground clearance requirement. Or is there something I am missing???

Firstly good on you for actually going to the effort and checking the Vicroads information and giving them a call. it's refreshing to see this being done! :yes:

The last time I checked, the test is done with the car having the driver and a passenger and 30kg of luggage. Perhaps this will change your readings and provide you with what the RWC place got?

Firstly good on you for actually going to the effort and checking the Vicroads information and giving them a call. it's refreshing to see this being done! :yes:

The last time I checked, the test is done with the car having the driver and a passenger and 30kg of luggage. Perhaps this will change your readings and provide you with what the RWC place got?

Cheers. I'm trying to be as thorough as possible as the workshop I went to has come under new management since I last visited and they come across as dodgy; so I'd like to have the facts on hand.

A few years ago I got a yellow canary for the car being too low (the car passed Vic Roads new import inspection on the same springs!). So I had to get a RWC which included putting on standard height springs and take it to Vic Roads to get the height checked. The Vic Roads inspector simply had me sit in the car (no passenger) and ran a height check trolley under the car & it passed. I haven't changed anything to the ride height since I was cleared which baffles me as to why I'm now being told it's too low?

Do you know where I can find an official Vic Roads reference as to requiring a passenger and 30kg of luggage? (Vic Roads themselves don't seem to know too much) :rolleyes:

If the car has ABS - it's a flat no-no.

If the car is non-ABS, as long as you reinforce the underside of the holes, it's no problem.

cheers for that,

Q:

reinforce, bit of 1mm scrap with same hole drilled on tacked/ stitched welded on underneath or exhaust tube type reinforce ?

wondering if this would be a common thing cops would defect and rwc would pass in the same state....

thanks

Cheers. I'm trying to be as thorough as possible as the workshop I went to has come under new management since I last visited and they come across as dodgy; so I'd like to have the facts on hand.

A few years ago I got a yellow canary for the car being too low (the car passed Vic Roads new import inspection on the same springs!). So I had to get a RWC which included putting on standard height springs and take it to Vic Roads to get the height checked. The Vic Roads inspector simply had me sit in the car (no passenger) and ran a height check trolley under the car & it passed. I haven't changed anything to the ride height since I was cleared which baffles me as to why I'm now being told it's too low?

Do you know where I can find an official Vic Roads reference as to requiring a passenger and 30kg of luggage? (Vic Roads themselves don't seem to know too much) :rolleyes:

I have had to have 2 defects cleared for to low, both times there was no request to be in the car, they just ran there roller under it and cleared the defect.

I checked the ground clearance and the lowest point on my car (cat back) is 105mm.

Second to this, I calculated the mid-point clearance by multiplying the distance between the axles (2.8m) by 33.33, which equals 93.324mm

Therefore, by my calculations I am within the legal ground clearance requirement. Or is there something I am missing???

You are missing the fact that in victoria you are guilty untill you prove you are innocent, might sound a little sceptical but when you look at things like an epa notice for noise and emissions, they make you prove your innocence, if you dont prove it your automatically guilty (if you dont get it tested and cleared you get fined), the cops do what ever they like and its up to you to prove they are wrong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...