Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not overtly cynical - Import, male driver - if you are in the wrong places at the wrong times expect to get a defect.

They can't notice turbos, so dont stress.

It's simple - you can make near on 400rwkw and it will only take 45mins to be "legal" (by swapping stock parts on), if you go about your modifications intelligently.

Gday gents,

Have just moved to Vic, as my R32 is a track car this question relates to my Landcruiser.

How strict are roadworthy inspections on seeping oil? I have 2 leaks, one from the pinion seal and one from a powersteering hose. I have the parts to replace them however no shed or tools to do it as im staying in a hotel at the moment.

Was hoping to get the roadworthy done on the car before i go back to work so once iam at work i dont need to stuff around getting roadworthies in the week that i will have left on the rego!

Advice please!

Both fairly straightforward jobs. Really depends how fussy workshop is and how bad the leaks are. If you pressure wash beforehand and it's a minor weep it may not be an issue. ANother option is of course to choose a workshop who can undertake the work for you as well as doing the rwc.

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...

Doubling up on a question I asked in another thread.

Can anyone recommend me a place in Melbourne (West subs preferably) to get my RWC done? A place that will actually do a RWC for a R34 GTR.

Thanks

  • 3 months later...

Hi

Looking for some advice on buying a modified car that has no roadworthy.

The car I'm looking at has brake upgrades,3 exhaust turbo back with high flow cat, suspension upgrades, larger turbo upgrade,air intake upgraded,turbo timer/boost control, upgraded injectors, spare intercooler yet to be installed so running standard cooling.Radiator top tank was empty when I looked so I didn't test drive it. The engine has been replaced with a reconditioned engine. Dash says 260,000 km's but reco engine installed at 170,000kms "apparently".

The car is registered but the guy isn't selling with a roadworthy which is my concern. He also doesn't have the import paper's as he's I think the third owner.

Are any of these mods illegal to register if I'm copped with the roadworthy?

He's asking $7,800 which I think it isn't worth without roady. Not sure what's a fair price for it? It's 1998 R33.....I've added some pictures if that helps.

post-74120-0-37169100-1465680477_thumb.jpg

post-74120-0-16395800-1465680490_thumb.jpg

post-74120-0-20340300-1465680504_thumb.jpg

post-74120-0-69543900-1465680516_thumb.jpg

You will have trouble with the following: (Depending on your RWC guy/gal)

1. Injectors. Anything with different injectors is a fail. You may be able to get away with it IF they aren't visible...

2. Suspension upgrades (no coil overs, must be OEM)

3. Aftermarket exhaust. Needs to be factory, or proven to be under the sound limit and emissions. You pick which one. Either is expensive... You may be easier to get something CAT back and just prove the sound limit. Anything to do with aftermarket Catalytic converters, usually means trouble and requires an engineers sign off.. $$$

4. Larger Turbo (if they know what it looks like compared to factory). So no high mount/twin scroll polished nastiness!

5. Air intake upgrade may require investigation, but could be OK. If you are running the standard intercooler, then you should be OK.

6. Brake Upgrades... Forget it. These will have to be converted back to OEM unless you can prove the car stops the same and you haven't affected ABS etc. Any RWC will put a cross against this.

7. Based on a quick look at your photos, the catch can cannot vent to atmosphere. You must have it plumbed back to where the factory point is. Nothing wrong with running a catch can, it just can't vent to atmosphere...

8. Wheels: Check to see whether the rolling diameter isn't different by more than (damn I can't remember) X%. and the width needs to be checked.

9. Boost controllers, aftermarket ECU's. Forget it. These will have to be replaced with OEM stuff.

Hope this helps.

My car passed a RWC earlier this year with coil overs. As long as the car is above 120mm off the ground with no one in it you should be fine.

Exhaust should be OK as long as it's not too loud but places that are not familiar with modified cars will probably not pass this as they need to take photo's of everything. Vicroads have been known to question inspectors who pass cars with non-factory exhausts.

Air intake (pod filter) is only allowed if you are running the stock intercooler.

If I was you I'd speak to a place who is familiar with modified cars and ask them of their opinion. Sometimes it's more hassle than its worth (which is why the seller isn't selling it with a RWC).

Good luck.

You will have trouble with the following: (Depending on your RWC guy/gal)

1. Injectors. Anything with different injectors is a fail. You may be able to get away with it IF they aren't visible...

2. Suspension upgrades (no coil overs, must be OEM)

3. Aftermarket exhaust. Needs to be factory, or proven to be under the sound limit and emissions. You pick which one. Either is expensive... You may be easier to get something CAT back and just prove the sound limit. Anything to do with aftermarket Catalytic converters, usually means trouble and requires an engineers sign off.. $$$

4. Larger Turbo (if they know what it looks like compared to factory). So no high mount/twin scroll polished nastiness!

5. Air intake upgrade may require investigation, but could be OK. If you are running the standard intercooler, then you should be OK.

6. Brake Upgrades... Forget it. These will have to be converted back to OEM unless you can prove the car stops the same and you haven't affected ABS etc. Any RWC will put a cross against this.

7. Based on a quick look at your photos, the catch can cannot vent to atmosphere. You must have it plumbed back to where the factory point is. Nothing wrong with running a catch can, it just can't vent to atmosphere...

8. Wheels: Check to see whether the rolling diameter isn't different by more than (damn I can't remember) X%. and the width needs to be checked.

9. Boost controllers, aftermarket ECU's. Forget it. These will have to be replaced with OEM stuff.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Heaps, sounds more like trouble than good. I figured there was a reason why the car was offered with no RWC. They didn't know anything about the engine's history other than listing what he'd reckoned was done. No receipts nothing.

My other question was do you need any import or original RAWs compliance paperwork if you buy without a roadworthy? I thought you'd need a copy of the compliance paperwork if your buying without a roadworthy.

I wasn't after the engine, I wanted to use the front section to restore my own car's damage.

Really didn't know what to offer. So offered

That's not the engine from a 1998 R33 Turbo...

I noted that too.The Engine and VIN numbers showed that, not typical numbers.

It was a reconditioned engine "apparently" that had 170,000kms clocked up = a tired engine.

I took a wide berth and walked away from it.

Looked like the car had been passed around mates numerous times.

I've found a better specimen last weekend which I'm looking into.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Hi I have a question in regards to Rim sizes that will pass VIC  roadworthy.

I've  got a 1997 SII R33 GTS-T coupe. Stock rims are 16".

How big/wide can I go but keep it from being fined? I was told spacers aren't allowed but that's the only info I've been able to obtain so far. Was hoping to get some bronze deep dish rims 18 x 8 front  & 18 x 9.5 on rear ....or wider but not sure how far i can go before mods kick in?

There's a heap of Japanese GTR fitment rims around but finding it hard to find Japanese rims with  a GTST fitment.

Anyone had any grief after fitting Japanese Work, Volk, Enkei rims?

Edited by mercyseat

Coming from a highway patrol cop!! The main guys at epa at McLeod have either retired or moved on and the epa never bothered to replace them. So that part remains closed and they can't send you up there for a full epa.

However the noise epa checks at exhaust shops are the only place they can send you.

I reckon that the epa of the past is long gone, imports are rare and people don't bother with crazy mods anymore. It's all about stealth and performance euro cars that currently outnumber the imports heavily.

Plus most hwy patrol cops these days know f**k all about cars cause they're not trained and have no interest in cars at all. It's all about handing out fines and that's it. Few of the older blokes are still very knowledgeable but even they cbf anymore. Not long ago my brother got pulled over in a BMW M4 and the cop complimented how nice his Benz was loll

  • Like 1
On ‎19‎/‎09‎/‎2016 at 4:31 PM, Buraz said:

Coming from a highway patrol cop!! The main guys at epa at McLeod have either retired or moved on and the epa never bothered to replace them. So that part remains closed and they can't send you up there for a full epa.

However the noise epa checks at exhaust shops are the only place they can send you.

I reckon that the epa of the past is long gone, imports are rare and people don't bother with crazy mods anymore. It's all about stealth and performance euro cars that currently outnumber the imports heavily.

Plus most hwy patrol cops these days know f**k all about cars cause they're not trained and have no interest in cars at all. It's all about handing out fines and that's it. Few of the older blokes are still very knowledgeable but even they cbf anymore. Not long ago my brother got pulled over in a BMW M4 and the cop complimented how nice his Benz was loll

If that's the case how would one clear a full epa from the past if they supposedly don't do it anymore? I'm kind of hoping it'll just eventually vanish off the system one day :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
    • Very cool, see what I did there? 🥲 Wild WMI setup, first I've seen where it's on each cylinder runner, usually I see a single jet pre throttle.
×
×
  • Create New...