Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to be honest, i like changing my plugs every 10k kms. lol

gives you the opportunity to check their condition, spot any warning signs, and give the whole area a once over.

i'd feel weird not looking at them for 100k kms, if they infact would even last that long.

+1

i crack mine open every 5,000kms to check up on em, replace at 10,000kms. better be safe then sorry :(

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

splitfires have been tested and proven,

yellow jackets are probably the best ones for money out there. so far ive had the car up to 14psi on 1.1 plug gap with no problems.

They came packaged properly, they fit perfectly and perform great. And you get warranty. For that money, not much more you can ask for.

Does anyone know where the Splitfires are actually manufactured ? Is it Japan ?

Set of splitfires on ebay is $600 yet the market's been flooded with all these yumcha $300 coilpacks resold under various brands .. I believe they ALL probably come from the same chinese manufacturer. Justjap sell them, performance-wise sells them and there are a few different companies on Ebay that sell them and each one gives them a different brand name but to me they look the same. Some are different colours but I think that's just part of a ploy to try and fool consumers into thinking they're from different manufacturers.

Anyway, what's everyones experience been with these Yumcha coil packs that sell for $300 on Ebay ? I've read some good but also a few negative posts where they either came DOA or one or more coilpacks died after only a short time.

Ill clarify from personal experience on my own cars.

I had RB25DET R33. Usual misfire, coilpacks blah blah blah. I too tossed up between splitfires ($800 at the time) and the JJR ones at just under half price.

Money was tight and I went the JJR's, worked excellent for 6 months brilliantly, replaced plugs 2 weeks after install and the car went even harder! Was so very impressed!

Unfortunately one coilpack malfunctioned at about the 8 month mark, jumped on the phone to JJR, they sent me a new one and even re-imbursed postage.

Over a year on and they are still going very strong and very happy with the product.

People claim to have dyno'd splitfires against china brand and have found 5-10hp difference, but personally I think its a crock of shit with people trying to make there china product better than the real deal or another china brand

All in all, I was very happy with the product apart from the little mishap and would definately use them again as they solved my problem and gave me better performance and fuel economy.

And as always, the shit under the bonnet of your car is nearing 20 years old, its brittle and will break, be gentle! Especially with your coilpack harness. I learnt the hardway.

Goodluck, for more info do a search I did a writeup in someone elses topic early last year. This topic has been covered!

I just thought I should also add.

I have installed 2 more sets off JJR coilpacks into mates RB25DET powered vehicles and one set of another brand of china pack in a RB20DET

All three sets have worked faultlessly to date and they are well over a year old also

welll without searching too hard you should have been able to find the 200+ post thread on the same topic......

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...li-t187108.html

I've locked this one so just post up in the other.

hm it seems JJR and YellowJackets don't sell any coil packs for R34 GTT's where as SuperSpark do ... I used to think they are all the same chinese coilpacks rebranded but doubt it anymore. If Supersparks were made in the same place as the others, the other sellers would have R34 GTT coilpacks for sale by now.

But anyway ..only a $50 difference between Superspark and Splitfire so might as well go Splitfire if you have an R34 GTT/Stagea (NEO motor)

from what Ive looked into they arent made in the same factory. Ive also heard that there will be some R34 RB25 NEO Yellow Jackets on the market very soon. Id assume the pricing would be the same as the other yellow jacket models too. This is great news as they are about $100 cheaper than supersparks and about $150-200 cheaper than splitfires.

well i have used OEM on a number of my cars. splitfires on 2 (about to be 3 next week) and other branded chinese ones (like superspark, JJR etc).

my experience. most OEM ones have been fine, but I did eventually develop a missfire in one car that was fixed by a set of splitfires.

I've never had a splitfire coil fail and used them in one of my GTRs for a number of years. and one set of them I bought was second hand so used for who knows how long before I got them. they are good quality and work just as promised. I can't honestly say they give any more power over a properly functioning oem nissan coil. the problem is though most of our oem coils are pretty old and not at their best so it's not un-usual to get an improvement when switching to splitfires.

as for the other 'brands' with the various colour chinese made coil packs. my experience has not been so great. they worked ok for about 10 months, then 1 failed. luckily they do have local service cause you might well need it! in their defence the coil was tested and promptly replaced. things were fine again for a while. now they again have a light miss that goes away when I swap them out for a set of OEM coils. so we'll see what happens from here.

i won't name the 'other' coils as it's not really fair as they have at least stood behind their product. but it's still annoying having them fail and take your car off the road. for the money they are I guess reasonable value. but I do think the splitfires are a better product. are they $XXX better? I can't say for sure.

  • 4 weeks later...
as for the other 'brands' with the various colour chinese made coil packs. my experience has not been so great. they worked ok for about 10 months, then 1 failed. luckily they do have local service cause you might well need it! in their defence the coil was tested and promptly replaced. things were fine again for a while. now they again have a light miss that goes away when I swap them out for a set of OEM coils. so we'll see what happens from here.

Does anyone else have anything to add with long term use of the cheap chinese coil packs? I'm leaning toward getting a set of the yellow jackets but wondering whether it's worth spending a little extra on Splitfires. It would suck to have a $400 set fail a month out of warranty!!

Does anyone else have anything to add with long term use of the cheap chinese coil packs? I'm leaning toward getting a set of the yellow jackets but wondering whether it's worth spending a little extra on Splitfires. It would suck to have a $400 set fail a month out of warranty!!

Ive been using Yellow Jackets for around 11 months now and they are still going as strong as the day I put them in.

performance-wise has them on there website for around $370 delivered.

is it normal for a skyline to hesitate a bit when switching gears or is that a sign of a coil pack(s) on its way out ?

hey dennis, i have this problem too

i assumed it was my crap tune so never did much about it.

it didn't do it before the tune was done tho.

if you find the problem, please let me know.

Just purchased some yellow jackets for my RB20 off www.performance-wise.com now - I highly recommend their services! Paul is a great help and is very quick to respond to any e-mails.

*****

Can't wait to test them out and go back to some 1.1mm plugs.

  • 2 weeks later...
is it normal for a skyline to hesitate a bit when switching gears or is that a sign of a coil pack(s) on its way out ?

Inerested to find this out too, my car does it every now and then, kinda like if i catch it by surprise and shift too soon or somethin.

but anyways I'll be getting a set of yellow jackets next week ive decided, cant wait to see wat they can do for me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...