Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it's weird, my united only ever really varied from 82-85 - haven't driven the car for like 3 months, so not sure what's happening at the moment...

and caltex when i was using it was always bang on 70

deffinatly looks like e85 will be in armadale shortly.

an email from united today:

Thank you for sending in your query. At this moment, we do not have an estimated time for the completion of E85 upgrades for Armadale as there are many factors changing the final date. We will announce on our website and Facebook pages when E85 does become available.

i had also asked if a few other stations would be getting e85 and there response was:

At this time, we do not have immediate plans for expanding in WA. As we have just introduced ethanol blended fuels in WA, we are expanding our E85 network nationally and have included WA in this. We will pass your request for E85 for Hamilton Hill and Melville to the appropriate department, however, for the near future; we do not have any other plans in WA.

im still uncertain if i just hold off a little bit as im in the final stages of finishing my r33 off which is running a 6 boost, gtx3076, 50mm external gate and plazmaman plenum. quite a few have advised already that the gtx3076 really does require e85 to make the most from it. eaither way if i go e85 i guess id1000's will be the go with a walbro intank e85 pump. is it true that all the rubber fuel lines will have to be replaced with teflon braided lines?

No, it's not true, the lines should last for years on ethanol.

The GTX is fine on petrol, they just like more boost than the gt's. when you go e85 you can just wind the boost up more. Still a good turbo for 2.5L, although I wouldn't want to go any bigger personally.

Finally in Armadale (First in WA) and for those not in WA, Armadale is a shit hole at the end of the earth haha

Anyway I got some, tested in test tube for about 88% ethanol, Dave tested with a Zeitronix and got E80. It's normal for the test tubes to read high yes?

Yep on the south western cnr of Brunker and Rookwood roads .

Funny you should mention concern at getting tuned for E85 or Eflex E70 . I was tuned on E70 and gave United E85 a go and yeah it felt a bit flat/lean which the Tech Edge shows . After about 50-60 km I added ~ 6L of Ultimate and after a short time my car drove almost as it had on E70 .

It's not a problem using the E85 if tuned for E70 because all you have to do is throw in a small amount of straight ULP or prefereably PULP .

If you assume Caltex is E70 and United E85 then the difference is 15% more Ethanol in E85 , to get back to "E70" you have to add the 15% ULP .

If we assume you have a 55L fuel tank then 15% is 8.25L so thats how much ULP/PULP you add to a basically empty tank before filling up with E85 to get E70 . 8 litres of petrol is close enough IMO and 4 or 2 works neatly with 1/2 or 1/4 of a tank .

Something else to think about is that adding 8 litres of straight 98ULP to 47 litres of E85 probably gives you a higher octane better quality fuel for half of the 30% petrol content than Caltex does . In a perfect world E70 would be 70% ethanol and 30% 98ULP and E85 same deal but I bet the oil Co's use whatever cheap garbage they can get away with for the "petrol" content .

I should have another look at Yagoona United because if they have 100E10 you could probably throw 10L of that in to make up the petrol content if it's cheaper than BP98 . I don't think 1 litre (1.8%) either way in a tankfull is a biggie with these high ethanol content fuels but 1 extra litre of petrol probably runs and starts a smidge better .

Cheers A .

A .

According to whitepapers I've read, the anti-knock benefits of ethanol level off above 40% ethanol content. As an experiment it would be interesting to see what a 40% ethanol / PULP remainder would give. By my calcs it's a fairly easy 30L of E85 (actual 85%) and 30L of PULP98. You then end up with 42% actual ethanol content, 8% shitty fuel and 50% PULP. As compared to a dyno run of straight E85.

More octane is not automatically better, the higher the octane the slower the fuel burns but I'm sure you can reach a point where this is detrimental. An efficient engine has the fuel burn as quickly as possible, at the right time, in a controlled fashion. So having "enough" octane is vital for the controlled fashion bit, but throwing more octane at the situation is not going to give you any benefit.

Downside being you end up looking like a chemistry student at the bowser trying to get 40% actual ethanol content when you fill up :P

Yes I note your points . Mine is thats it's not a biggie if your car was tuned on EFlex E70 and you wanted to or had to use United E85 for whatever reason .

The detonation resistance of E70 and E85 may not be so different but going from one to the other with no other change shows up as an air/fuel ratio difference . My Tech Edge display showed about 0.03-0.05 difference but I wasn't going anywhere flat out .

Now that it's available on my flightpath I am going to try United E85 with enough added PULP to make E70 just to see if anything changes drivability or consumption wise because as said I suspect the 30 or 15% "petrol" is some cheap mouthwash to bulk the volume out and make cold starting easier than with straight ethanol .

I think I remember reading on American boards that the blending petrol content was some inexpensive base stock and to be fair it may help out with tank pressurisation in warm weather . I think it's this issue that supposedly drives the change in ethanol content in some places summer to winter .

The burning question , sorry , is how well does the base rubbish burn and what does that do for fuel consumption ? Heat is where part throttle consumption is IMO and real petrol may give off more heat for the same volume of base stock rubbish so may be able to use less for the same heat .

With the right AFR E70 and E85 probably make similar power in a sane street tuned car so if you can have E70 with at least half the dino content REAL PULP can it make a difference ? I'd like to go further on a tank of fuel not just for cost reasons but range reasons .

Whats life without a challenge , cheers Adrian .

Yes I note your points . Mine is thats it's not a biggie if your car was tuned on EFlex E70 and you wanted to or had to use United E85 for whatever reason .

The detonation resistance of E70 and E85 may not be so different but going from one to the other with no other change shows up as an air/fuel ratio difference . My Tech Edge display showed about 0.03-0.05 difference but I wasn't going anywhere flat out .

Now that it's available on my flightpath I am going to try United E85 with enough added PULP to make E70 just to see if anything changes drivability or consumption wise because as said I suspect the 30 or 15% "petrol" is some cheap mouthwash to bulk the volume out and make cold starting easier than with straight ethanol .

I think I remember reading on American boards that the blending petrol content was some inexpensive base stock and to be fair it may help out with tank pressurisation in warm weather . I think it's this issue that supposedly drives the change in ethanol content in some places summer to winter .

The burning question , sorry , is how well does the base rubbish burn and what does that do for fuel consumption ? Heat is where part throttle consumption is IMO and real petrol may give off more heat for the same volume of base stock rubbish so may be able to use less for the same heat .

With the right AFR E70 and E85 probably make similar power in a sane street tuned car so if you can have E70 with at least half the dino content REAL PULP can it make a difference ? I'd like to go further on a tank of fuel not just for cost reasons but range reasons .

Whats life without a challenge , cheers Adrian .

yes Adrian all pump E85 use regular 91 ULP in the petrol portion. Only Drum E85 uses 98 PULP as the 15% petrol portion

E85 now available for you Newcastle folk.

United 114 Chelmsford Drive, Metford 2323.

Also good ole NECKNOCK too man!

Will go check out this Metford one in the next few weeks, mine was tuned on Eflex E70 so chucking it on the Jezmans dyno to check all is good with the 85 in its guts!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...