Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the moment the easiest way to do it is a V35 Manual half cut! The one thing that we are all stuck on is the Bellhousing....everything else we can get sorted!

i thought we found the Bell housings bolted straight up with the rear wheel drive conversion

i thought we found the Bell housings bolted straight up with the rear wheel drive conversion

was sleepy....meant to say that the 4WD manual conversion there is no bellhousing for...yet!

Pardon my noobity, but isn't the bellhousing basically just a cover for the clutch and flywheel and doesn't serve any mechanical purpose? If it's essentially just a cover, can't a suitable one be custom fabricated quite easily?

Legally, no. A cut and shut job will be the easiest, fabricated/cnc would be best but expensive.

Ya'll still looking into all of this? wheres the progress @ currently???

My friends cnc machine is getting fixed soon, and he may be keen to make some bell housing adapters, but we will need a box to borrow.

i have a 34box here, and a 32box here also. or what box have we changed our minds to now?

  • 7 months later...

Since Chopps brought this up I thought I'd resurrect it.

Looking through this, is the only reason why you didn't try a Navara/Pathfinder gearbox the ratios?

R34 gearbox isn't that expensive if you're desperate for a manual solution. Personally, I'm going to get the shift kit in and I should be happy. I was just thinking that any gearbox from a 4WD Nissan that bolted onto a VQ motor should work, and Navara/Pathfinder was all I could think of.

Since Chopps brought this up I thought I'd resurrect it.

Looking through this, is the only reason why you didn't try a Navara/Pathfinder gearbox the ratios?

R34 gearbox isn't that expensive if you're desperate for a manual solution. Personally, I'm going to get the shift kit in and I should be happy. I was just thinking that any gearbox from a 4WD Nissan that bolted onto a VQ motor should work, and Navara/Pathfinder was all I could think of.

If you wanted a 2WD this is the go with a Z33 sump.

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page15.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t196679774&thumb=http://f6.auctions.c.yimg.jp/f40batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/7/3/7/8/san3shine-thumb-1302572301408591.jpg&title=3%20Z33%206

The Navara/Pathfinder setup would work but the money they want for it is way to high and considering its not really every going to be a performance box.....imo it's a waist of time. On top of that you would still need sort out the starter and a couple of other bits. With the torque we deliver our option is only really going to be to go for a performance box...R33 or R34 seems to be the best choice. It would be great if our transfer case just bolted up to the Z33 but it doesn't really look like it will.

AWD Z

See linky - guy in QLD doing a AWD 350Z, with a VQ38 twin turbo. Has been quiet for a good few months.

He is using a combination of G35x parts, R34 GTR Getrag Box and a bit of ingenuity. Looking to be able to sell it as a kit for V35's / 350z's.

Will work for us if he gets it off the ground, and be a lot simpler. basically all we need is the bellhousing adapter, the way to mount our T/Case on the back of the Getrag, and all the pedels/slaves/masters of a normal manual conversion...

Simple eh?whistling.gif

R34 transfer case should work fine for the rest of us Alex. :nyaanyaa:

Hopefully I will have some of the parts soon to start looking into the r34 Getrag option, namely spare bell housing. Next is to find all the interior parts cheap and see if the box fits. >_<

Just to let you guy's know...I spoke to a specialist today on this.......I am going to start pushing forward on this in the next week or so so that we can start getting the full price for the conversion together.

So hands up how many people would go down the Manual conversion path?....no bloody "Gunna's" either!

The gearbox we have chosen to go with is the R33 GTR box.........some more research into gearing, ecu's and a host of other things are needed but at least we now have someone who looks to be enthusiastic about help us out so we can release the true potential of these cars and get rid of all the Nissan Granny helper ECU's.

and yes he even new what the VQ25det and M35 Stagea was.thumbsup.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...