Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

has anyone heard from Ghostrider lately? i have tried to contact him several times but still no luck, PM me if you can help out...

oh and by the way i am not angry with him, just he might be able to help me track down my package he sent me.

yas - yeh that exhuast quote i said was for mild steel system with stainless steel muffler .. pretty much everyone does that unless u want wanky stainless all the way thru which ends up like doubling the price of the system! ive heard it can also crack.

600 or so would be for mild steel turbo back system. u can also get ur Catalytic Converter removed and dont need to replace with one coz ur car is post-86 so u dont need the Cat. then ur choice of muffler for ~250-300 depending where u get it and wat brand etc. !

So all up 850-900? Sounds about right... there was no way i was gonna do stainless steel turbo back anyway, was way outta my range :P

My car has a catalytic converter? *blank stare* and u meant pre-86 right? :)

My savings is going hell slow at the moment, gonna hafta wait at least a month or so to get it done, unless generous friends can chip in for me 21st... :):D

seriously though.. i wonder how many of you actually realise that 1 person ultimately pays to keep this site running (and you should see how much traffic this site goes through!)..

If disclosable, how much does it take for this site to run? PM me if u have to... just curious.., if u cant disclose it dont worry i wont cry :P

Stainless isn't that expensive. A full stainless system with a hotdog resonator + a 4 inch cannon set me back $950. Its worth spending the money the first time around. Stainless is also a lot stronger so if you do happen to bottom out badly on a speed hump etc it wont crush as easy.

As for the cat, depending on which state you are in and the laws, cats are still needed on pre '86 cars. I couldn't get my exhaust engineered because the engineer told me that if it runs unleaded it needs the cat. The Japs have used unleaded since the 70's!

Hey guys,

I thought i should post in here even though i thought i did earlier..... Oh well maybe in the pages of lost information...

I have an 85 oz spec hatch

L20ET dropped in, supra fmic, 2.5" Turbo back exhaust, K&N pod, Wolf 3D ECU with hand controller, Koni street-special height adjustable shocks, don't know what else hahha...

I have a couple of questions for the L20 gurus,

Will the L24E head gasket fit on my engine? ie, is the L24 larger bore or stroke? I have burnt an exhaust valve out due to shitty tuning causing detonation and need to find a head gasket so I can fix it....

Also, are the valves the same as the L24, or for that matter, any other engine?

Had my car dynoed at work when it dropped the cylinder with the burnt calve (well 30psi compression is a dropped cylinder to me) and it made 135rwkw on 1 bar so I guess the L20ET is pretty slow...

Lastly, does enyone know of anywhere in Adelaide that knows anything about the L20?????

Thanks for listening to me rant and rave, great thread getting close to 2000 posts...

Later

Dwayne

Guys...

seriously.. start some new threads, don't just make a MEGAHUGE one!!

if it continues much more i will be forced to lock this. If you don't know what i am talking about then you obviously havn't read the other 1948 messages.. which is my point exactly.. no body else will look at this thread for research either!

Kent

I agree....there are a few things i want to find out, but as i'm on dial up there is no way im going thru it all (spose i COULD search)........some one with adsl should go thru this thread and delete the crap, leaving only tech information and personal dyno results etc, or even split it into two threads...tech/power,.... I'd gladly do it, but like i said....Dialup. ..:P

General chit chat should be kept in the wasteland(maybe an R30 subforum?)

boj01: photoshop....."Save for web" very good compression....

Hey guys,

I thought i should post in here even though i thought i did earlier..... Oh well maybe in the pages of lost information...

I have an 85 oz spec hatch

L20ET dropped in, supra fmic, 2.5" Turbo back exhaust, K&N pod, Wolf 3D ECU with hand controller, Koni street-special height adjustable shocks, don't know what else hahha...

I have a couple of questions for the L20 gurus,

Will the L24E head gasket fit on my engine? ie, is the L24 larger bore or stroke? I have burnt an exhaust valve out due to shitty tuning causing detonation and need to find a head gasket so I can fix it....

Also, are the valves the same as the L24, or for that matter, any other engine?

Had my car dynoed at work when it dropped the cylinder with the burnt calve (well 30psi compression is a dropped cylinder to me) and it made 135rwkw on 1 bar so I guess the L20ET is pretty slow...

Lastly, does enyone know of anywhere in Adelaide that knows anything about the L20?????

Thanks for listening to me rant and rave, great thread getting close to 2000 posts...

Later

Dwayne

Go to classic skylines

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...