Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stupid question.. maby... ( are there any epa problems with highflowing a stock turbo in standard housings? )

Technically you its not allowed but epa cant tell that you have hi flowed the inernals so its fine to pass a test with a hi flow.

Little update:

This is a cheap sleeve bearing rebuild option ($950 inc GST) for people with totally blown (need new core) GT3582 turbos.

turbinehousing.jpg.JPG

front1.jpg.JPG

back.jpg.JPG

what sort of power are you chasing for?

the G1 runs of a 71mm 52T comp and G2 runs off a 76mm 52T comp. For RB20 they are ok to run in .63 turbine housings.

what sort of power are you chasing for?

the G1 runs of a 71mm 52T comp and G2 runs off a 76mm 52T comp. For RB20 they are ok to run in .63 turbine housings.

Looking for about 220-230kw with minimal lag

  • 2 weeks later...

Stao, i am really starting to think my turbo is causing all of my lag problems.

I have replaced all my rubber joiners, new intercooler, replaced other engine bay hoses, disconnected boost gauge and boost controller and the car is still a laggy peice of crap.

3psi by 3000rpm 10psi by around 4800rpm all done in 4th gear. I replace one last hose today and noticed the turbo side of the car is alot louder that the front or other side.

Car never had lag issue with stock turbo (Yes i know its a bigger turbo and will have more lag but not this much)

Just had a big day tuning at status. This is the first run with my new forged engine. Every thing on this engine apart from pistons are stock standard, so any good healthy RB25det will be able to do the same.

Just recap of modifications list:

800cc injectors

Nistune ECU

Z32 AFM

600x300x75mm FMIC

3inch turbo back exhaust

3inch intake pipe with pod.

CP pistons

ATR43G3 / Pu high flow .82

Stock engine head

Stock cams

Stock cam gears

Stock exhaust manifold

Stock inlet manifold

Stock fuel rail

Stock engine block, Con rod & Crank.

This is a controlled run based on BP 98 Fuel, No boost controller, No wastegate controller.

Car made peek of 303rwkws at 20psi with drop to 17psi (can be fixed with Gate controller). The constant was between 295 to 300rwkws.

atr43g3303rwkw.jpg

atr43g3303rwkwboost.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...