Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends what your definition is of choke. SS2 has made 300rwkw on 98 fuel with full boost at 3800rpm. To me that sounds very similar to a GT3076 and they run very well on rb25/30s. Sure a bigger turbo would run well too but this will have excellent response.

My definition of choke is when a turbine/exhaust housing is to small for a larger capacity motor and will make power drop of up top, SS2 would be to small, even 3076's are..anothe half a litre will drop the

flow rate of the turbo aswell.. so the turbo will not make as much peak power either on a bigger motor

cheers

darren

.anothe half a litre will drop the

flow rate of the turbo aswell.. so the turbo will not make as much peak power either on a bigger motor

cheers

darren

Can you explain this further?!?!

So should everyone be checking the clearance between the dump and aircon pipe? So if there is not atleast say, 30mm clearance (5 bolt exhaust flange has an extra 25mm over stock now) , then you need a different dump pipe. Is this correct?

So should everyone be checking the clearance between the dump and aircon pipe? So if there is not atleast say, 30mm clearance (5 bolt exhaust flange has an extra 25mm over stock now) , then you need a different dump pipe. Is this correct?

There is 160mm of clearance between turbo and chassis, Generally none dump pipes will sit that much back, but more depending on direction it sits. Have a look at the photos. some of them are straight and some angles towards the chassis, the once that are angled are more likely touches that abit of rubber.

Our turbine housings are made on a fixed fig, cut on a cnc machine with fixed program, every single one are exactly the same. Those dump pipes are not, explains most fits and some don't.

For the ones do touch, its a 10mints job relocating that soft rubber pipe.

Or we can supply external gated 5 bolt ATR43G3 at a lot cheaper price so customers are welcome to make their own dumps.

So my car is finally back on the road, couldn't be happier to drive it today, im sick of driving boring new cars

Its still got the old stock turbo 10psi tune but is running the SS1PU and supporting mods hence I could only drive it softly on partial throttle.

First impressions:

-I love having no exhaust leak (which was there before I did the turbo swap)

-The turbo starts spooling at what feels around 3000rpm in the lower gears, it sounds great

-I gave it slightly heavier throttle in 5th gear once and after it builds around 7-8psi the boost wants to ramp hard, i backed off but in a split second it jumped up to 12-13psi

Tune should be done by end of next week, I cant wait to unleash this turbo!!!!!!!!

Few more problems fitting my turbo after getting the spacer plate, so unfortunately it still isn't done yet but atleast it's bolted to the car.

First the oil return line is no where near fitting. It's about 40mm too short, with no flexibility to make it fit. Shouldn't be hard to correct, will pick up a longer hose tomorrow.

Then my intake pipe no longer fits. Will need to get about 20mm cut off, but for now have relocated my radiator overflow bottle. Hopefully I don't get pulled over before I can fix that cos its dodgy as fk.

Also the screamer pipe definitely isn't going to fit. So I'll need to get another one custom made.

Finally, because the intake pipe is different, the Bov hard piping no longer fits. Should be fixable by chopping it off before the PCV return and using an L shaped hose to plumb it up. Hopefully.

That SHOULD be all the problems that I can foresee, so it SHOULD be up and running tomorrow. Will update with photos. Oh and tune is booked for next Friday, the day before my dyno day :P

Edited by Hanaldo

Hmmm...quite a few members now having issues with fitment from a supposedly pretty straightforward bolt-on turbo. Dump clearance with air con hoses, oil lines/water lines not fitting/difficulties, intake no longer fits, spacer needed as turbo needs to clear engine, new 90 deg angle pipe required from turbo to intercooler piping, 4inch intake (hence relocation of Z32) is recommended...pretty much everything custom.... as people are saying about the GT3076 / 3071.

Which leaves me wondering, how is the Hypergear turbos more 'bolt-on' than the Garret counterparts?? Even price wise the Garrets are not much more expensive? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I myself have been thinking of getting a Hypergear turbo sometime down the track, but what with all these issues people having...:rolleyes: ...I need to think properly..

Good to know I'm not the only one. The way my install went I think having a known turbo (garret/hks) is worth the extra few dollars, fair enough I am yet to see if the hypergear can actually make any power but before Christmas I will have all the information/dyno sheets to know if stao will be receiving my turbo back.

Modifications required fitting an hypergear turbo is minor, ie shift stock water lines extend abit of rubber or re-locate abit of rubber pipe lol. Cost me 1 hour at most marking around. Then make a intake pipe.

To fit an off shelf Garrett unit I need to running around buy aftermarket oil line, water lines, oil drain, spacer, marking around pulling all my old lines out, then toll it to an exhaust joint making my dump pipe, then make an intake pipe.

Even minor modifications required it still takes the least amount of time, work, and cost to fit up the hp turbo apart from a stock turbo. Even by dumping more money for a garret turbo its not getting me better result then what I currently got, hoo with the ss2 :D .

I'm all fairness I have to say that the 3 inch bellmoith dumps that just jap sell are one of the problems with the hypergear install, f**k even putting that dump on the stock turbo is a head ache and a half, and that's if you got one that the bolt holes are in the right place.

My definition of choke is when a turbine/exhaust housing is to small for a larger capacity motor and will make power drop of up top, SS2 would be to small, even 3076's are..anothe half a litre will drop the

flow rate of the turbo aswell.. so the turbo will not make as much peak power either on a bigger motor

cheers

darren

I have seen numerous rb25/30 setups with a 3076 that do not drop off power up top, therefore by your reasoning they are not 'choking'. There is one on here that is making 320rwkw with crazy response (Als I think). I do not see many rb25s with a 3076 making 320rwkw (I know it is possible) so the turbo is making more peak power then on a smaller motor so thats also saying that its not choking by your last sentence.

You could argue that an SS1 or HKS GTRS is also 'choking' on an rb25 in that it might drop 10-20hp by 7000rpm but people love those due to the response and power/torque at street legal speeds.

Hmmm...quite a few members now having issues with fitment from a supposedly pretty straightforward bolt-on turbo. Dump clearance with air con hoses, oil lines/water lines not fitting/difficulties, intake no longer fits, spacer needed as turbo needs to clear engine, new 90 deg angle pipe required from turbo to intercooler piping, 4inch intake (hence relocation of Z32) is recommended...pretty much everything custom.... as people are saying about the GT3076 / 3071.

Which leaves me wondering, how is the Hypergear turbos more 'bolt-on' than the Garret counterparts?? Even price wise the Garrets are not much more expensive? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I myself have been thinking of getting a Hypergear turbo sometime down the track, but what with all these issues people having...:rolleyes: ...I need to think properly..

My post was not supposed to be critical of the Hypergear turbos. They are a good turbo mate, any messing around with fitment is no more than I would expect from any turbo upgrade.

You have to keep in mind that I'm fitting an externally gated turbo with a .82 rear housing and a .70 compressor. That's a HUGE physical change from factory, expecting everything to magically fit back together is simply wrong.

Good to know I'm not the only one. The way my install went I think having a known turbo (garret/hks) is worth the extra few dollars, fair enough I am yet to see if the hypergear can actually make any power but before Christmas I will have all the information/dyno sheets to know if stao will be receiving my turbo back.

garrett or hks turbo wont stop you f*%king up the install...

rb25/30 setup and dynoed before xmas???????

Good to know I'm not the only one. The way my install went I think having a known turbo (garret/hks) is worth the extra few dollars, fair enough I am yet to see if the hypergear can actually make any power but before Christmas I will have all the information/dyno sheets to know if stao will be receiving my turbo back.

You would have had exactly the same issues with a garret.

Harey - there is nothing wrong with my install, unless you want to blame me for a ring not holding compression. I will have an engine in and dynod before Christmas if I can.

My issues aren't so much with the install just everything after that. I've done turbo conversions before and I knew what to expect, the only problem I had was the afm fitment.

I'm just severely doubting the potential, that's where the Garret reputation comes in.

STATUS' dyno doesn't lie.

Amen.

Stao is so completely transparent about the performance of the Hypergear stuff that there's really not much to say. The results are readily available and hard to misinterpret.

And Status have such a good reputation, so there's nothing going on there. The only people I can see who are critical of Hypergear gear are those who have clearly f**ked something up from the start.

I'd be surprised if most, if not all, of the people who have had issues with HG gear weren't the actual root cause.

Only ever had 3 problems with my turbo:

1: the length problem as being discussed, though hardly an issue since my workshop got around it and I'm not melting hoses.

2: damage to the wastegate assembly during post, undoubtedly caused when postal services opened mine up for "random inspection" and packed it back into the box poorly, hence taking a beating at some point.

3: water lines not lining up - this one we are all aware of and just makes things a bit fiddly. Drove me insane when I spent well over an hour trying to screw the one banjo bolt in lol. I'd hardly call this a problem though, you'll get it with any turbo install if you don't change to braided lines.

All in all, you haters are just a bunch of sooks.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...