Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good intake pipes aye. The 3 inch metal pipe fits snug inside it so not restricting it.

I Can supply if u like

There was no issue's with holding boost. Just how i set it up with the boost controll. Car feels like more than 200kw on the road.

It does feel really fast. And to think I got so much advice before I highflowed to get a bigger turbo, but I love the response of this unit.

Nice and torquey too

Fun!

Where did you get this intake pipe? I need a few my self.

In this case not sure if by using high pressure actuator holding more boost uptop would gain abit more kws, but that would be about the limit from high flowing a R32 GTT turbo.

I have a GCG highflowed R32 rb20det turbo that makes about ~235kw on 18psi dropping to 15psi by redline on an rb25det. Can hold 18-20psi to redline just haven't had a chance to get it tuned with that to see what it can make. I am 100% sure it is an rb20det turbo so you could probably squeeze a slightly bigger rear wheel in there if they managed to.

I have a GCG highflowed R32 rb20det turbo that makes about ~235kw on 18psi dropping to 15psi by redline on an rb25det. Can hold 18-20psi to redline just haven't had a chance to get it tuned with that to see what it can make. I am 100% sure it is an rb20det turbo so you could probably squeeze a slightly bigger rear wheel in there if they managed to.

It has the valve on the compressor housing?

The Rb20det's high flow profile is smaller then what we normally do on RB25det. it can be made bigger, how ever the drivability would turn bad as its missing 0.5L and no VCT enhancing down low.

Rb25det would make power lot easier, Rb20dets are generally 20% behind in power.

The Rb20det's high flow profile is smaller then what we normally do on RB25det. it can be made bigger, how ever the drivability would turn bad as its missing 0.5L and no VCT enhancing down low.

Rb25det would make power lot easier, Rb20dets are generally 20% behind in power.

I'm quite happy with how do the RB20 high flow :)

Good intake pipes aye. The 3 inch metal pipe fits snug inside it so not restricting it.

I Can supply if u like

There was no issue's with holding boost. Just how i set it up with the boost controll. Car feels like more than 200kw on the road.

Tis a neat looking pipe. Can I assume correctly that this should fit an RB25 all the same? If so, what would you sell one for?

Isnt that intake pipe just a bit of straight 3" pipe with 2x45 degree silicone bends cut to the right lengths?

I would be a little bit worried about the silicone bends bending under cornering and acceleration load. Mine just uses a 90 degree metal bend but with fittings welded on so that the bov and pcv lines can be attached.

does that look like a metal intake pipe to you? :glare:

any competent exhaust shop can make up an intake pipe for you.

should cost anywhere from $100-$150~

yes it does..when you know how to look further.......cut that silicon sucker in half, get a short length 3" metal pipe and put those 2 'joiners' on both ends.. easy isnt it?? Thats how you create a backyard metal intake pipe that should work - refer cherring's car a page earlier on this thread.

Edited by rondofj

I was set out to make my own and after figuring it out its not too hard. To use all your stock oil breather and BOV return, just get a 3" metal intake pipe with 90degree bend, stick it in the front of the turbo and cut the breather and return where they touch the pipe. The pieces you cut off form the nipples to attach your shit back onto. Any workshop will charge little to nothing to weld these on(if you know someone with the welder).

Don't bother trying to make any fancy bends to fit shit. Trust me a 3" 90degree pipe fits the z32 and apexi filter snuggly.

yes it does..when you know how to look further.......cut that silicon sucker in half, get a short length 3" metal pipe and put those 2 'joiners' on both ends.. easy isnt it?? Thats how you create a backyard metal intake pipe that should work - refer cherring's car a page earlier on this thread.

if you're gonna spend $60 on this + 3" pipe to cut and fit in, why not just do that with the stock intake pipe, its been done many times before on here, theres even a DIY thread about it.

if you're gonna spend $60 on this + 3" pipe to cut and fit in, why not just do that with the stock intake pipe, its been done many times before on here, theres even a DIY thread about it.

I did read somewhere that even with the $10 intake mod (stock pipe cut in half with metal pipe stuck in the middle), those rubber bends STILL suck close and dont work for everyone...

if you're gonna spend $60 on this + 3" pipe to cut and fit in, why not just do that with the stock intake pipe, its been done many times before on here, theres even a DIY thread about it.

Both are pointless and shit ideas. I tried the half metal half stock(the bigger end). According to Tao, this is a loss of 65rwkw from back to back tests he done. I made 244rwkw. Add 60rwkw you get 304rwkw from the SS2. Ive got it sorted now, full 3" metal just need a retune.

I was set out to make my own and after figuring it out its not too hard. To use all your stock oil breather and BOV return, just get a 3" metal intake pipe with 90degree bend, stick it in the front of the turbo and cut the breather and return where they touch the pipe. The pieces you cut off form the nipples to attach your shit back onto. Any workshop will charge little to nothing to weld these on(if you know someone with the welder).

Don't bother trying to make any fancy bends to fit shit. Trust me a 3" 90degree pipe fits the z32 and apexi filter snuggly.

Good idea - I was also thinking of using a 3" 90 deg bend from supercheap for $27 something and get an exhaust place to weld on those annoying breather nipples..just worried about the fit..

Ooops -thats actually a 45 deg piece, they do have them 90deg pieces in aluminium

post-49401-0-38018800-1327902729_thumb.jpg

Edited by rondofj

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...