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Agree with zebra, but also, it's a cheap copy of a turbo...what did we expect? It's a miracle that the thing even makes the power it does.

In other news, these traction issues I've been having...aren't traction issues. Kind of ashamed I didn't pick up on it earlier, I guess it just didn't have the typical signs of clutch slip because it was happening in all gears and not just the top. It also unsettles the chassis with the clutch losing and gaining grip on/off making it feel a bit like wheelspin. Having a non-functional tacho doesn't help either. Anyway, today I kept my eye on the speedo and the engine got louder but the speedo stayed the same :(

The good news is my tyres are fine, the bad news is that I still have to fork out 500-600 to fix the issue lol. Oh well, I've had good life out of the cushion button...hundreds of launches, DECA after DECA and lots of daily driving. Previous owner installing it was a bonus!

*runs off on a Kasko-esque search without the hundred threads about it* :P

Sucks about your clutch

Question for stao. Where do you turbine wheels come from?

As for reliability look what happened with the bw efr turbos

Manufacturing faults can and will happen

Agree with zebra, but also, it's a cheap copy of a turbo...what did we expect? It's a miracle that the thing even makes the power it does.

In other news, these traction issues I've been having...aren't traction issues. Kind of ashamed I didn't pick up on it earlier, I guess it just didn't have the typical signs of clutch slip because it was happening in all gears and not just the top. It also unsettles the chassis with the clutch losing and gaining grip on/off making it feel a bit like wheelspin. Having a non-functional tacho

Could it be the diff opening up? I thought I had a slipping clutch, turned out it was the diff really badly one wheeling, would spin first 3 gears in the dry at peak torque.

If it happens in 4th and 5 then year fair call, best way to tell is find a steep hill you can do 100 on and punch it in 4th, it will definitely slip when boost comes on if it is the clutch.

You can pay higher rate and spend more time for errors to not/less likly occur. Which is why all of engineering work are carried out locally under my direct supervision.

The wheels that I'm using are specifically made by a well know foundry to be solid and heat resistant. Which I haven't seen one cracking even thou they are treated in much hasher conditions. Ie internal gated, pump 98 fuel, high boost. But the part does not comes with a cheap price tag.

The TD06 copy, I was told all parts were sourced from Taiwan. I introduced it as a lower cost turbo with intention to generate consumers on a budget, well only countinue if it proven relaible. The price frame on it is impossible to produce the same in Australia.

I don't think the failure resulted with efr is in manufacturing process. To me it is in design and engineering print of the assembly. Means regardless of how well they are manufactured, as long as they were manufactured per print, it will have the weak spot.

Hoo clutch wise I'm using a Twin plate Blitz. It has never sliped. But horrible to drive on road.

Hypergears = clutch killers

laugh.gif

Exedy ceramic racing clutch has been doing the job for me for about 18 months now with the various HG's I've had, 24 months including the standard turbo. No problems as of yet. If it ever does fail, I've got the option of either going twin plate or custom carbonetic single plate. Will make the decision if when it happens.

*runs off on a Kasko-esque search without the hundred threads about it* :P

Hahaha Oi shhh you.

Only reason being is I have accumulated all the info you need? ;)

Well we can share info if you find something worth while let me know. I just don't wanna fork out the cash for something im not happy with

Waiting for Tuesday so I can contact NPC and make up my mind

Could it be the diff opening up? I thought I had a slipping clutch, turned out it was the diff really badly one wheeling, would spin first 3 gears in the dry at peak torque.

If it happens in 4th and 5 then year fair call, best way to tell is find a steep hill you can do 100 on and punch it in 4th, it will definitely slip when boost comes on if it is the clutch.

A good guess but unlikely as I have a KAAZ 1.5 way that is pretty recent and the speedo should go up with any wheelspin, but the only time the speedo goes up is when the break in the drivetrain stops, suggesting clutch :(

HHHDB looks like the go, considering my E-flex endeavors of the near future.

A good guess but unlikely as I have a KAAZ 1.5 way that is pretty recent and the speedo should go up with any wheelspin, but the only time the speedo goes up is when the break in the drivetrain stops, suggesting clutch :(

HHHDB looks like the go, considering my E-flex endeavors of the near future.

That indeed does sound like a clutch then, look into jim berry clutches, he grabs a lot of off the shelf stuff and ups the pressure plate clamp pressure to make some fairly ordinary stuff hold big power without being undrivable, there is a thread here somewhere "need a clutch" or something like that

Hoo clutch wise I'm using a Twin plate Blitz. It has never sliped. But horrible to drive on road.

Can attest to this...I stalled his car about three times! It has two modes: stop and launch lol.

Ok here is a question for all running the 18/20psi actuator. I tested my actuator and it starts opening at 2psi and is open 100% at 28psi. Does this sound about right?

Sorry didn't notice I put 38

Edited by lilcrash

Sorry hit the 3 not the 2. It's open 100% at 28.

Edit - just thought I would add, I tested it on the bench, not in the car.

Edited by lilcrash

NPC clutch on it's way. They reckon their organic is good for 300rwkw...guess we'll find out. Yay for retaining daily drivability!

*sneers at button clutch owners*

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