Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sucks about your clutch

Question for stao. Where do you turbine wheels come from?

As for reliability look what happened with the bw efr turbos

Manufacturing faults can and will happen

Just to give you an idea. I've had a 21U hi-flow for a while now. Over 45 track days down, pulled it off late last year and it looked perfect.

Birds did you go the 10"? For around the $650 mark?

I got a quote yesterday for one and the guy said its rated to around 400rwhp

Yer it was the 10. Bolts up to standard flywheel so that's a big plus. Wait til I tell my girlfriend I've got a 10" now!

Might be a stupid question, but where abouts are these clutches power ratings being measured at? If its only a 400hp clutch I hope it's at the wheels, but that seems like an odd place to measure it from for a clutch

Edited by Mitcho_7

They would be measured at the flywheel but you could give a rough estimation for how much wheel kw it can hold.

Well if the clutch is only going to hold 400hp at the flywheel wouldnt that be barely enough clamping force for the guys with the ss1pu's that have 250kw at the wheels?

??? In both Kasko and my posts, we refer to rear wheel power...

I'd rather they be measured at the wheels, that seems more practical to me given all our dyno readings are obtained there.

??? In both Kasko and my posts, we refer to rear wheel power...

I'd rather they be measured at the wheels, that seems more practical to me given all our dyno readings are obtained there.

I didn't see the rear wheel part. If you guys manage to get your boost fixed up top and get say an extra 20kw you'll be closing in on 400rwhp won't you?

They tell me it's good for 300rwkw, so I'm going off that. Doubt I'll touch on 300rwkw...even with E-flex...my compressor housing is too small.

Im not saying its a bad cluth choice for youre power im merely asking Is 20-30rwkw enough wiggle room in terms or clamping force once the clutch wears abit? I'm interested to know is all.

I think you will be surprised Birds, and the torque hike will only make it worse.

Im not saying its a bad cluth choice for youre power im merely asking Is 20-30rwkw enough wiggle room in terms or clamping force once the clutch wears abit? I'm interested to know is all.

Guess we'll find out, but it's a risk I'm willing to take. Worst case scenario I flog it off to someone who has less power and opt for the not-so-pleasant-sounding alternatives: fork out $$$$ for a JB, put up with the violence of an HHHDB, or do both of these things and get a twin plate.

I'm not drifting/racing the thing, I just want a clutch with enough clamping pressure to hold things together under load during the daily drive with the occasional spurt...I think it'll do the job fine. Keep in mind these power ratings are only a guide...there's no point splitting hairs over 300rwkw, not like the thing will magically pop just after 299.9rwkw and I don't think NPC would be selling their clutches based on power ratings if they weren't a tad conservative.

Guess we'll find out, but it's a risk I'm willing to take. Worst case scenario I flog it off to someone who has less power and opt for the not-so-pleasant-sounding alternatives: fork out $$$$ for a JB, put up with the violence of an HHHDB, or do both of these things and get a twin plate.

I'm not drifting/racing the thing, I just want a clutch with enough clamping pressure to hold things together under load during the daily drive with the occasional spurt...I think it'll do the job fine. Keep in mind these power ratings are only a guide...there's no point splitting hairs over 300rwkw, not like the thing will magically pop just after 299.9rwkw and I don't think NPC would be selling their clutches based on power ratings if they weren't a tad conservative.

NPC Twin plate ;)

Talking to a mate the other night who has one, he reakons its the best clutch he's ever used. I'm half kicking myself I didnt just get one from the start, but oh well, I'll see how long the 10" single plate lasts. So far its been great but :)

NPC Twin plate ;)

Talking to a mate the other night who has one, he reakons its the best clutch he's ever used. I'm half kicking myself I didnt just get one from the start, but oh well, I'll see how long the 10" single plate lasts. So far its been great but :)

How long has it already been in there?

When I spoke to NPC he said his mate was running one in a 300kw car so it should be fine

Same with the quote from KB clutches

He asked for my peak power/torque and what rpm it makes these by.

He then spent a few hours and got back to me with the organic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...