Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How does the wastegate open in that housing, is there enough clearance?

Its got 42mm of clearance inside the casing. thats far more then what the actuator can travel, won't case any issues.

gate.JPG

Bolted up my SS2 today. Didn't need to bend water lines. Nothing fouled. Oil drain fitted. Not sure if it was made to fit perfect or because it had a highflow previously it had already been modified.

Can't wait to kick it in the guts:)

Bolted up my SS2 today. Didn't need to bend water lines. Nothing fouled. Oil drain fitted. Not sure if it was made to fit perfect or because it had a highflow previously it had already been modified.

Can't wait to kick it in the guts:)

You lucky son of a....

I am so jealous of your simple install haha

Can't wait to see the power

The 350rwkws was made by a G2.5 in a type B rear housing on E85 internally gated. The G3 on type A internally gated housing made 358rwkws with 7 degrees regarded timing in fear of bending con-roads. It should be sitting around the 390rwkws mark with time added.

Now it is:

flangeold.jpg

With all broken studs removed of course.

2ndly before installation I found the actuator had been short lengthen to lower boost. Doing so leaves the wastegate unsealed causing massive amount of lag. And that is a lag caused by negligence. It must be held shut and loaded as photo shown on the right, do contact me for a lower psi actuator if lower boost is preferred for what ever reason, but don't unload the supplied actuator, it does not mean the same thing.

actuator.JPG

I will ask the customer tonight if he unwound the preload when he fitted it years ago.

So did u replace the entire rear housing? It looks like a different wastegate setup or is the picture mirrored

Hey Stao, what size banjo bolts do you use on your cores? I've just been looking through the HKS manual for my turbo and looks like mine are all M14 banjo bolts, hoping when I buy a turbo off you after my holidays I can simply unbolt mine and bolt yours on and just screw everything in

Will this be possible or will I just need to get an oil/water line kit off you?

that was the old housing been sand blasted, cleaned and reworked to Type B rear.

The picture must be mirrored then because the flapper arm is from a different angle and so is the t3 flange.

I asked him and he said he unloaded it as he asked for the 14psi actuator but got the 20. This car wasnt laggy for the setup he had.

The picture must be mirrored then because the flapper arm is from a different angle and so is the t3 flange.

I didnt notice that before, but yeh when you look at it everything is opposite haha

he asked for the 14psi actuator but got the 20.

This seems to happen to everyone...

Edited by Mitcho_7

Picked up my ATR43SS2 with .82 type B rear housing up off stao on monday XP Cant wait 2 get it installed on my 33 nd see how much power it makes..

I've fixed the photos. appears on the same way now. With the gate loaded and shut it should've pickedup another 200RPMs of response. Its been loaded now and hopefully there are some good tuners in NT.

Picked up my ATR43SS2 with .82 type B rear housing up off stao on monday XP Cant wait 2 get it installed on my 33 nd see how much power it makes..

Be good to see another result :) I'm hoping to lift my engine in mid next week. What actuator did you get?

There is a newer type of comp wheel been developed for the SS2 that weights about 25% less then the current SS2 billet wheel. (its virtually feels nothing on hand, less weight then the Plastic OEM comp wheel). I think Trent's is getting his dyno together next week and I'm testing that very soon. So I suggest to hold on to your SS2 units to have that comp wheel updated free of charge.

There is a newer type of comp wheel been developed for the SS2 that weights about 25% less then the current SS2 billet wheel. (its virtually feels nothing on hand, less weight then the Plastic OEM comp wheel). I think Trent's is getting his dyno together next week and I'm testing that very soon. So I suggest to hold on to your SS2 units to have that comp wheel updated free of charge.

You have my attention. Looking forward to checking it out. Which housing result will you be comparing it against?

you also have my attention, will you be testing it with a 0.63 rear housing or 0.82 housing? Im yet to put my SS2 in the car yet so i will wait to see if the gains are significant. But keen to get a Lighter comp wheel

This is a high flow that I've done for a set of Toyota supra with the SS1.5 CHRA. Come out pretty good. photos:

comp1.jpg

comp2.JPG

rear2.jpg

By specifications those two should be enough to flow 500rwkw+. Will post results once the customer get his car tuned.

Also this are stainless steel 3inch metal induction pipe made by Abe for R32/R33/R34 high flowed turbochargers. RRP is $200, or $150 with any turbocharger services purchased. PM if any one's interested.

intakepipe.jpg

Also this are stainless steel 3inch metal induction pipe made by Abe for R32/R33/R34 high flowed turbochargers. RRP is $200, or $150 with any turbocharger services purchased. PM if any one's interested.

intakepipe.jpg

These intakes can come with both recirc ports?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
×
×
  • Create New...