Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Smoothness of the wall inside an exhaust manifold like the RB one is going to have a very very small effect on the flow/pressure relationship, compared to the terrible, terrible aerodynamics of the bends and joins in the log itself. It is actually possible to get better flow with a rougher surface, especially on the inside of the bends, because a thicker boundary layer is less likely to seperate off the wall (or at least, it will not seperate until a higher velocity is reached). Keeping the flow attached almost always wins.

The outermost ports on the RB manifold are poorly aligned with the head's ports, and so one of the things that Stao did in that mod was to port the manifold to improve the match (and that is a long standing known improvement anyway). As to "port matching"......it is actually better if the manifold flange openings are larger than the exhaust ports on the head - by 1mm or so all around) to try to create what is known as an anti-reversion step. The idea being that the change in section does not cause a bad upset to flow when the gas is flowing out of the port into the manifold, but the step creates a place where a pressure change needs to occur to force return flow (such as when the exhaust valve is still open but there's a pressure pulse elsewhere in the manifold that drives reversion gas back in through the exhaust valve). The pressure change is sufficient to cause the pressure wave to bounce back (ie, it's the "end" of the runner, even though it's not actually the end) and reduces the amount of exhaust gas reversion into the closing valve. It works. It's probably less useful on a turbo engine where we simply have high exhaust manifold pressure anyway, and arguably less useful on a crude log than on a decent long tube manifold.... but you'd still do it if you could (and it didn't compromise any other aspect of the design) on the basis that any little help is good help.

Have my g2.5 on the car given it a bit of a drive. Seems very good but can't get up it properly till tuned yet :(.

I highly recommend Hypergear to anyone interested in upgrading their turbo. My turbo was an old used one I got off another member which was stuffed. Sent it down to Stao and he replaced everything (except housings) for around $400 and he also updated the rear housing to 0.82B for no extra cost on top.

I know I wasn't the easiest customer to deal with but he was always professional and helpful so a big thumbs up from me looking forward to a safe 270rwkw

Thanks for the feedback. Looking forward to see your dyno results.

Further updates with the fabricated factory exhaust manifold:

It took me 4 hours to remove brae's manifold. I believe there is a need for small alterations in design which allow tools reaching and turning manifold to head studs in a compact area. Installing the stock manifold was a piece of cake.

IMAG0918.jpg

IMAG0920.jpg

IMAG0921.jpg

IMAG0922.jpg

It still runs the SS2, I will take it back to Trent for some dyno runs on Monday. Assume no timing reduction while power and torque curves mirrors, then that would possibly confirm my $500 alteration work perform as good as some of the $1000+ hand made items.

There is a very noticeable gain in response using with this manifold. I'm very sure it has lesser volume compare to previous, plus shorter runners would've also helped. hopefully peek outputs stays the same.

The factory manifold is a twin plus log manifold.I prefer keeping it that way, refer to previous photo, note the curvature in bends of both manifold logs. if that has been milled then exhaust gas will run into a flat end, its also the reason that I didn't mill into the merging point. External gate in this case can be attached to the turbine housing since the manifold is no longer restrictive.

The Tube ID is 45mm

Also an prototype actuator was made. it has adjustable rod that allows pre-loading, but also allow adjustments to spring load pressure. Similar to certain external wastegates that allows spring load adjustments. By using this prototype, I'm hopping to hold steady boost levels in upper rpms range, similar to an external waste gate result.

actuator.jpg

I've finally got some results sent in from our version of billet TD06SL2 off a S13 none VCT SR20det. It made 282rwkws on 18psi with E85 , it should just touch 300rwkws at full potential. This turbo is now available for $800 brand new for any one's interested. Far as I know the car has 264 cams with every thing else standard. And that is on a high mount T3 manifold externally gated.

billettd06.jpg

Think so. You need to run them externally gated to get the numbers.

Also some results about aftermarket v Stock manifolds.

Per last page referring to the modified stock exhaust manifold. I've done a back to back test today V Brae's exhaust manifold.

allpower.jpg

allboost.jpg

It is actually more responsive as I've felt, however also down on power. Pink is modified stock exhaust manifold, while the other two are from using Brae's manifold. free flow manifold produced more on lesser boost, proper manifold is very necessary for power making.

You need to get hold of a stock standard manifold and compare it to that because that's what it's going to be replacing. I can't see it being attractive to someone who already has an aftermarket mani. Myself, on the other hand, would consider yours if the price is good and it compares favorably to stock.

I think what he meant was get a proper hand made manifold with a proper external gate system for better power.

yeah but someone with an aftermarket manifold already won't buy one of these

someone with a stock mani would, so it would be handy to know what sort of difference vs stock there would be

yeah but someone with an aftermarket manifold already won't buy one of these

someone with a stock mani would, so it would be handy to know what sort of difference vs stock there would be

Eggzacery.

This manifold is targeted at people currently running stock manifolds.

The only way Stao is going to confidently say that it's a worthy ~$500 upgrade is by comparing it back to back with a stock manifold and showing the improvement, assuming there is one.

Well that level of gain Its not worth the $500, a cheap china manifold would've gained better result. I won't be providing that service.

mean while we also did a power and boost comparison using the current SS2 against the T67, both on E85 and ext gate (I need harder springs in mine). this is obviously not official just some thing interesting to look at.

Red is from SS2 the rest are from T67.

ss2vt67.jpg

ss2vt67boost.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...