Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

hypergear

By hypergear,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

50cm?? Thats half a meter before.. Is there even half a meter of pipe from cooler to TB?

I'm sitting inside and haven't looked at it for a while, my judgement of distance is definitely off haha.

It's near enough to where the pipe comes through my cold air box.

  • Replies 12.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Lithium
Lithium

I was reading through the thread and was going to weigh in anyway, though looks like you're very much on the page I am reading from - so I'll +1 with with a bit more anecdotal evidence to support it

hypergear
hypergear

The ATR28SS15 would be a perfect turbo for your application. I didn't look into some thing even smaller as it doesn't make that much of a difference in response but did loses quite a lot of power. I'

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

^ lol... maybe I'll use a 3" intake pipe and add in more bends.. that usually gets the suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutuuututuutut going LOL. Anyhow, some real world facts to back up the results.. errbody likes ti

Posted Images

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

You want it to be as close to the compressor housing of the turbo as possible. If your running actuator pressure you can also pop a nipple on the comp housing and run it straight from there to there.

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

You want it to be as close to the compressor housing of the turbo as possible. If your running actuator pressure you can also pop a nipple on the comp housing and run it straight from there to there.

Why is this, exactly? The only reason I can think of is to avoid overworking the turbo if your cooler is a restriction, but at such a measly boost level that I'm running I can hardly see that being of concern.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Why is this, exactly? The only reason I can think of is to avoid overworking the turbo if your cooler is a restriction, but at such a measly boost level that I'm running I can hardly see that being of concern.

Actuator reaction.

If the surge is created by a minor overboost at those revs/throttle then moving the reference nipple will mean the actuator reacts quicker and can overcome the problem.

Thats assuming the surge is created by that specific issue.

GeorgesR34 Collaborator

GeorgesR34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Okay so the reply back from JJR is that all there dumps/front pipes are the same so mine was not a defective product.

No no What they are saying is, All my dump pipes are defective. You like you buy.

Edited by GeorgesR34
Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

I might look into having that done then - would the turbo need to be removed to put a nipple on the outlet though? I would think this would only be for safety reasons to avoid metal shavings falling down to the compressor.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

To make it simpler just get one welded on the cooler pipe as close to the turbo as possible.

Should work to the same effect mate.

Stao is it possibly you can produce these with a nipple on the cover from now on?

I was a little :( when I didnt find a reference nipple on mine but there were 2 casting marks indicating where it could be fitted.

t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

To make it simpler just get one welded on the cooler pipe as close to the turbo as possible.

Should work to the same effect mate.

^^this. I welded an 1/8 npt socket onto the underside of the pipe out of view then screwed a barb fitting in

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

To make it simpler just get one welded on the cooler pipe as close to the turbo as possible.

Should work to the same effect mate.

cbf, lol. But yeah if (when) I next remove the turbo I'll have one put on the comp cover for sure.

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted

Yes I have stock of the billet 20G but only in a 10cm T3 rear. I can sale you the core for $700 if you want, which you can run that in your current 8cm housing.

18G, and 25G plus 8cm turbine housings are still work in progress at this stage.

Ok , so what are the advantages of billet wheels compared to the ones on the one i have now? (just talking myself into it really, just seeing if i can justify the extra $$) the car that the turbo will be going on will be used mainly for track work so it will get a hefty work out!

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well if the comp wheel is made exactly the same to original caste then it makes no differences. lol

For our billet wheels we run a different sized hub with slightly taller inducer and blade curvature. All manufactures has their own wheel profiles, so there won't be an identical billet turbo result.

The currently 20G follows our SS hub and blade profile, that is engineered to produce the most Power with Least RPMs. So the car comes alive as soon as its on gas. You can see that worked extremely well refer to test result based on a SR20det None Vct motor, and no one has yet managed to get 200rwkws by 4000Rpms on same setup. Its going to be crazy responsive working with the Rb25det. I would expect the end result be similar to the SS1PU with more top end since working with proper manifold and external gate.

jet_r31 Mentor

jet_r31

Posted
Posted (edited)

I reckon i might get a 8cm housing and one of these Billet 20G's and jam it on the 4AGZE Ke10 rolla i have here with some E85 in the mix..be epic on 30psi..lol

have a killer ex manifold here for one, be a shame to waste it..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This is a pretty good result from a high flowed Rb20det turbocharger bolted on to a stock rb20det motor internally gated. Green is 98 and red id E85 limited by fuel pump. Hopping to see around 250rwkws with fuel pump replaced.

e85dyno.jpg

I reckon i might get a 8cm housing and one of these Billet 20G's and jam it on the 4AGZE Ke10 rolla i have here with some E85 in the mix..be epic on 30psi..lol

have a killer ex manifold here for one, be a shame to waste it..lol

cheers

darren

For 4AGZE Ke10 rolla, Here's a result from a ATR28G2. Good chance cracking 300rwkws on 24psi on e85 :yes:

atr28g1228rwkwscorolla.JPG

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Just to ammend ur last post Tao, the red and green are e85 but hi and low boost. I will get an overlay of the 98 runs from before i converted it to ethanol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTR Front Diffuser/Guard Liner questions.

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • MBS206
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • MBS206
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By MBS206 · Posted

      OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
    • GTSBoy
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. Anyone not putting the absolutely largest battery that will physically fit (ie, NS70 X) is not thinking straight. the NS70 X is close on double the capacity of the "stock" unit.
×
×
  • Create New...