Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would that design not create a lot of turbulence with the return right after the turbine?

I was going to mention that but thought i would sit back and see how it went :)

Being at right angles to the turbine flow it stands a chance of being pretty bad.

But, if it turns out to be bad, the concept can still be valid. Because Stao can always have the relationship between the WG and the housing fixed, he can come up with a suitable dump pipe that will allow the WG re-entry to be further down and it can be a standard item he can sell with it. The best bet would be to make it like the cheapy split dumps for Nissan housings with the return down near the floorpan bend in the main dump. When you assemble it you just present the dump to the turbo and WG flanges and do everything up (provided there's enough room to swing the necessary spanners.

The wastegate entry being at a right angle doesn't cause as many problems as one would assume. At least not in my application. Stao welded my gate off the housing like that, but it has no problems with boost control at all, though my tuner and I both thought it would be an issue. Mine is venting to atmo though.

I'm not worried about boost control. I'm more concerned with the disruption to the flow patterns of the turbine exit flow. A Garrett engineer once told me (and several others, to be sure) that the very best turbine exit is a nice, smooth, conical expansion from the turbine diameter up to the proper dump diameter. Shallow cone angle preferred (obviously) but sadly in the real world everything is compromised by how much space is available. But the rest of his message was that anything that disrupts that flow field after the turbine costs flow through the turbine, which ultimately simply comes back to increased back pressure for the same amount of power and less power able to be taken from the exhaust energy. OEM wastegates, like the Nissan one, direct the WG flow across the turbine flow (because the flap directs the flow that way). And it works....but it is one of the reasons that people like to be able to go external gate - so they can get rid of the disruptions in the turbine exit flow. Yeah, yeah, better boost control and all that too. But having the WG flow across the turbine flow is a pretty crap thing to copy if you can avoid it.

Clearly Stao intends this housing to just go where the factory one was and hook up to factory flanged dumps pipes, and so he has little choice in the matter if he wants it all to fit in. But my point was merely that if it turns out to suck in any way, he can still use (most of) the idea.

And now that I think about it, a small tweak to the design of the prototype he showed above would make it suit the split dumps really well. Just move the WG return to the location where the factory WG is so that the gas is kept separate from the turbine flow in the housing, Bob's your uncle. You could even put the divider into the housing proper, remove the projecting divider from the dump pipe and get a more reasonable seal between the two chambers. Probably need to make your own gasket, but that wouldn't hurt.

I agree GTSBoy, I just don't believe people understand high velocity airflow very well.

Imagine the airflow is water and you will perhaps realise the flaws in that design a little better.

Hey I want one of those on my SS2 rear housing but I think if you give the flexibility of being able to weld the pipe in anywhere we like and just build ports into the housings would be great.

Well it doesn't have any room any where else for plumb back. Thats pretty much the only spot that can be plumbed back with. Alternatively I can make them with a bit of a dump pipe, that will make the plumbing much easier.

Less talky, more "run that sucker up on a dyno and see what happens" :)

This.

Do it with a G3 so we can see how deep the rabbit hole goes.

I will make some thing better for the dyno testing. This one was just to see how do able it was. Even tho it looked crap, that was alot of work.

Here's some thing better looking: I've restored a T04Z which some guy was about to throw out into the dump. It had a bent shaft, warped turbine ring grove, balancing was out 300% (funny how it was sold like that and no wonder it was very noisy). Plus some inexperienced mechanic stripped it and damaged the thrust pin and bearing caging. Good thing is the original bearing cartridge didn't look to bad. Other wise I will not be able to restore it.

Its also fitted with our SS3's .70 comp housing and a split pulse .84 turbine housing:

comp.JPG

turbine.JPG

side.JPG

Far as I know it will be going to a GTR and make some very lazy KWs, likely it will be back for the VNT module upgrade in near future.

What size is the compressor outlet on your SS2 stao? I need to buy a 90 deg silicone bend but under on what size I need. Would probably be 2.5" yeah?

that would be 2.5 inches outlet with a 4inches inlet. Usually run a 2.5 inches 90 degrees long leg pipe to the factory cooler piping and a 4 inches metal induction pipe with pod.

Tested the atr28g2 on the 180sx today at wsid

Was very busy and only managed one decent run

On 20psi boost got 12.4 at 120mph shit 60ft 2.2 had abit if wheel spin on launch

Tried high boost 24psi but blew a cooler hose off and ruined the run also track temps were 30c in the middle of the day

Will be definately heading back in a few weeks on a Wednesday night when it's cooler and hopefully crack that Dam 11s

Still got 4-5psi in it so maybe 20kw and will let down the Tyres down more as I got et streets and was on 30psi try 25 or less psi

I've driven it hard since I got it tuned and just before I left I gave it a few test runs and cooler hose didn't blow off

But decided to come off at the runs spewing

The Tyres have made a huge difference to street Tyres

Takes off like a bullet no wheel spin on the street at all in any gear where as before you can't get traction till 3rd gear if your Aggresive

I've driven it hard since I got it tuned and just before I left I gave it a few test runs and cooler hose didn't blow off

But decided to come off at the runs spewing

The Tyres have made a huge difference to street Tyres

Takes off like a bullet no wheel spin on the street at all in any gear where as before you can't get traction till 3rd gear if your Aggresive

Sorry if I missed it but what tyres did you run? Good result with potential, bring on the 11s!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...