Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also, can i get a rollcall on who is using what dump pipes with their turbos. I was using a (very old) JJR Bellmouth with an internal gate SS2 and the wastgate flap was fouling on the dump.

Thinking about buying the same thing again, but want to see what others are running, as smoe form of boost control would be great :)

Your exhaust is fine and is making good power. No need to change it. Unless the new one glows in dark.

Yeah, should be able to do that. I have a track day this Thursday, so if nothing blows up, I'll be in.

Car was originally tuned at Unigroup (290 as well- their dynos are identical I've found from personal experience), however I use DVS Jez, and has been to him quite a bit. Stock S14 motor, incld headgasket. GTX3071R 0.82 housing, 6Boost, 44mm Tial. 289kw@18psi on 98.

Lets go and see what they do, if I make it through the gearbox! :P

That is a awesome power figure and only 18psi boost on 98 should be very safe and easier on the box with the .82 rear

How did you find drivability wize going from Unigroup to dvsjez? I'm tuned at Unigroup now

If you went with a .63 rear and more boost and e85 would be very different to drive but may be abit harsh on the driveline as the .82 will be slighty laggier

I do welcome discussions about SR20dets as I'm learning about it my self.

Here is the dyno reading form the S14 I've just bought, with a GT3071 turbocharger appears to be in a .64 T2x turbine:

power.jpg

The response on paper is bit better then I anticipated. Its made 22psi by 4300RPMs.

boost.jpg

Very little power for the amount of boost given. Its lake of down low torque, drives like a NA most of time. The sheet does how that which makes 120kws on 4000RPMs. Same power with 300RPMs better in response would be nice.

Other funny thing about this S14 is it appears that they've hidden all the electrical wiring. There are no wiring or fuse boxes any where inside this engine bay. Electrical work would a nightmare.

I'm modifying my factory Rb25det exhaust manifold at moment for external gating, how ever it will be externally gated on two different spots of which I think been the highest pressure points. Will upload photos once its done and be interested to see how much difference in power I might be losing from the Brae high mount with a factory bolton version of SS4 Alpha turbocharger.

I was running an X-Force 3" Bellmouth dump with my HKS turbo, never had an issue with it. Its now been chopped/modified to a v-band and wastegate plumbed in.

Car sounds so awesome on the new engine, its not just turbo noise all the time like it was with the HKS turbo, sounds raw engine, love it. The SS2 is so much quieter driving around off boost, I've only hit about 3psi so far as I've only tuned it enough to just get it places, but I think its going to sound/go pretty good at 24ish psi :)

Got a 4" intake made up today, its a bit busy around the exhaust side of the engine. Few more things to sort out but should be getting tuned in early January:

20131209_182315_zpstgx4htjl.jpg

The turbo outlet silicone hose will burn quickly if you let it like that. :(

I've seen some setup on SR with a silicone hose close to the exhaust manifold like yours, and the hose never lasted long.

Lol did you know it was like that or found out after trying to tune?

Looks like your car has had a big rear ender.

Nah it was fine when it was tuned. Had a car transport company move my car and this is how I get it back from them. Not sure how they managed it, bunch of special people.

The turbo outlet silicone hose will burn quickly if you let it like that. :(

 

I've seen some setup on SR with a silicone hose close to the exhaust manifold like yours, and the hose never lasted long.

Yeah think we are going to change it to a steel pipe with straight joiners

Ive done that once before with my dumpipe lol backing out of a driveway and the runner the electric gate runs on my flange caught it and completey bend the dumpipe at both those bends just like yours haha.

Id suggest getting a 90 degree elbow welded off the housing 89cal

Edited by methz

Nah it was fine when it was tuned. Had a car transport company move my car and this is how I get it back from them. Not sure how they managed it, bunch of special people.

Reversed the car and caught the exhaust on something..

The fact it actually bent like that indicates the pipe was pretty hot when it made contact, and also that it was quite an impact. Indicates to me your car was doing burnouts, lost control and went backward over something that got caught on the exhaust.

Let this be a note to anyone having a car moved by transport; you MUST have a 'mechanic' limit put in for such reasons. Something that drops the rev limit to 3,000 or similar. Or pull the AFM earth out of the plug. It will be too hard for them to work out and will make the car run in limp mode.

Id suggest getting a 90 degree elbow welded off the housing 89cal

This i have recently found out :P And will be doing the same!

I always keep a few 90 degree silicon bends in the garage for this very reason lol. but also depends on manifold design and how close runner 1 is tucked into the collector.

I had the same design dumpipe gtscott its just got weak points and is cheaply made. I was reversing and wasn't going fast or was the dumpipe hot at the time.

Edited by methz

Lol didnt see that coming.

The jjr is ok. Need to die-grind their dump flange abit. From memory it didnt match up with factory gasket.

I do welcome discussions about SR20dets as I'm learning about it my self.

Here is the dyno reading form the S14 I've just bought, with a GT3071 turbocharger appears to be in a .64 T2x turbine:

Posted Image

The response on paper is bit better then I anticipated. Its made 22psi by 4300RPMs.

Posted Image

Very little power for the amount of boost given. Its lake of down low torque, drives like a NA most of time. The sheet does how that which makes 120kws on 4000RPMs. Same power with 300RPMs better in response would be nice.

Getting the VCt to work and std manifold back on will bring back that 300rpms or more response should be more around 200rwkw at 4000rpm

But remember the sr20 is not like the rb25 with 2 less cylinders

Lol didnt see that coming.

The jjr is ok. Need to die-grind their dump flange abit. From memory it didnt match up with factory gasket.

I have had them hitting under the floor too, I would say their jig was bent at various times and they just kept pumping them out. I guess for the price you can't complain.

Lol didnt see that coming.

The jjr is ok. Need to die-grind their dump flange abit. From memory it didnt match up with factory gasket.

I just purchased one today, so hopefully it only requires minimal modification.

Yeah I've got JJR too, it's fine. I had the workshop to shave back the flange as per these instructions, and also had a flexi join installed just after the bottom bend as the mid muffler scrapes every now and then and I don't want to wreck the turbo. Works well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
    • This is why you flex fuel it...
×
×
  • Create New...