Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Tao and all.

just wondering which turbo (or CHRA) you would recommend for a 2L 4-cylinder engine with short stroke & big bore (unlike the SR20DET) for a responsive upto 300rwkw?

I have read the 581 pages (wow what a read) and given the atr28ss2 would give me what i need, would like to know how the ATR28 & ATR43 differ and which one can ideally be suited to my T3 flange.

Hi Tao and all.

just wondering which turbo (or CHRA) you would recommend for a 2L 4-cylinder engine with short stroke & big bore (unlike the SR20DET) for a responsive upto 300rwkw?

I have read the 581 pages (wow what a read) and given the atr28ss2 would give me what i need, would like to know how the ATR28 & ATR43 differ and which one can ideally be suited to my T3 flange.

anyone?

given my manifold has T3 flange it seems i'll need to go for a ATR43 based CHRA. Just not sure how it will perform on my engine.

does anyone know the difference b/w the ATR28 & ATR43 turbine ends?

You can use our Atr43g3sat model in ceramic ball bearing assembly externally gated

thanks Tao.

any guesses when i'll roughly see fullboost?

alos, what would be the next smaller CHRA i could use?

thanks Tao.

any guesses when i'll roughly see fullboost?

alos, what would be the next smaller CHRA i could use?

Also, would it work ok with an A/R .63 turbine housing?

Atr43g3sat would be laggy on sr20 its already quite laggy on a rb25

One size down would be the atr43ss2

No ones tryed it on a sr20 yet

Would be quite good on a t3 highmount manifold and cbb

.63 rear externally gated

Would be quite responsive but may choke the engine over 300kw

On e85 might be ok but pump 98 may get detonation early

Depends what you want the car for

Responsive street setup .63ar or all out power drag .82ar just may be more lag

.63 t3 housings make heaps on 4 cylinders(350+),much more than the little

t2 housings ever will

You havnt got no where near as much backpressure as a rb25.

You could try the 20.5g he builds. Ss2 comp.l2 turbine 8cm housing.

We have one on stock bottom end sr. Does 315rwkw atm on low 20s boost and e85.

We used a china cast mani which had no boost control.

Now gone 6boost and 45mm gate,trying to get it booked in for tuneatm and will be put "on kill" shortly....

Another guy in qld did 370rwkw on one on 27psi ish with a bit left in the tank so be interesting to see what it makes.

We fitted a small water injection nozzle pre turbo this time aswell

Have a atr45sat ss here aswell ..have joked about fitting that..lol

Cheers

Darren

Atr43g3sat is the latest model that is more responsive then the ss2.

Thats the one made 317rwkws with 20psi @ 3550rpm P98 fuel. I think the larger model referred to was the Atr45sat.

Not a Sr, for a short stroke 2L depending on CPR, can run in a .63 or .58 rear.

Atr43g3sat would be laggy on sr20 its already quite laggy on a rb25

One size down would be the atr43ss2

No ones tryed it on a sr20 yet

Would be quite good on a t3 highmount manifold and cbb

.63 rear externally gated

Would be quite responsive but may choke the engine over 300kw

On e85 might be ok but pump 98 may get detonation early

Depends what you want the car for

Responsive street setup .63ar or all out power drag .82ar just may be more lag

thanks for the response.

ultimately the car will be street driven and maybe the odd track day (for some fun) given its heritage.

given this, it will need to stay with the original A/R .63 internal gated housing - i'd also like the engine bay looking factory spec.

and i'll prefer to stay with P98.

.63 t3 housings make heaps on 4 cylinders(350+),much more than the little

t2 housings ever will

You havnt got no where near as much backpressure as a rb25.

You could try the 20.5g he builds. Ss2 comp.l2 turbine 8cm housing.

We have one on stock bottom end sr. Does 315rwkw atm on low 20s boost and e85.

We used a china cast mani which had no boost control.

Now gone 6boost and 45mm gate,trying to get it booked in for tuneatm and will be put "on kill" shortly....

Another guy in qld did 370rwkw on one on 27psi ish with a bit left in the tank so be interesting to see what it makes.

We fitted a small water injection nozzle pre turbo this time aswell

Have a atr45sat ss here aswell ..have joked about fitting that..lol

Cheers

Darren

i'd assume the T3 .63 would flow better than the T28 .64.

the 20.5 (ss2) turbo does look tempting, but per my previous post, i'd prefer to stick with internal gate to keep the factory look.

it seems like i might need to look at the atr43ss2, possibly in CBB.

Atr43g3sat is the latest model that is more responsive then the ss2.

Thats the one made 317rwkws with 20psi @ 3550rpm P98 fuel. I think the larger model referred to was the Atr45sat.

Not a Sr, for a short stroke 2L depending on CPR, can run in a .63 or .58 rear.

so does this ATR43G3SAT have a CBB core?

what size is the turbine wheel because i might look at having my housing machined to suit?

yep, short stroke (over-square) engine with twin cams, forgies, etc, CR will be around 8.0:1.

given it's my weekend street car, response and strong mid-range is important.

it's not a track broad minded person or dyno queen.

so does this ATR43G3SAT have a CBB core?

what size is the turbine wheel because i might look at having my housing machined to suit?

yep, short stroke (over-square) engine with twin cams, forgies, etc, CR will be around 8.0:1.

given it's my weekend street car, response and strong mid-range is important.

it's not a track broad minded person or dyno queen.

What engine exactly are we talking about here? It will help people here to assist you.

What engine exactly are we talking about here? It will help people here to assist you.

Not sure why he hasn't actually said engine, but I'm going to guess a YB* series Ford. Given his name, I'd say he owns an RS500.

Not sure why he hasn't actually said engine, but I'm going to guess a YB* series Ford. Given his name, I'd say he owns an RS500.

i didnt think it would really make any difference, but correct, it's a yb cosworth engine.

CBB will give you day and night difference with transient response compared to its journal bearing brother.

I went from a SS2 journal to CBB (ceramic ball bearing) and the difference is day and night.

  • Like 1

2016 version of SS2 has many changes made to earlier models. The difference in end result would be a combination of alterations made.

Ceramic ball bearing system makes difference in throttle response and becomes very apparent when working with low CPR, None VCT engines as well as cars with Auto transmission. It is definitely recommended for that Cosworth engine.

2016 version of SS2 has many changes made to earlier models. The difference in end result would be a combination of alterations made. Ceramic ball bearing system makes difference in throttle response and becomes very apparent when working with low CPR, None VCT engines as well as cars with Auto transmission. It is definitely recommended for that Cosworth engine.

Speaking of Non VCT, low cr engines, did you ever end up doing any development with an RB20 Tao?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are, a good friend of mine bought one to replace his blow factory turbo, running a Toshi Tune reflash. Just use their supplied water/oil lines and you're good to go. At the time, they were like $900 delivered.
    • This is an option for 100% bolt on, the GCG high flow -  https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html Also, I'm pretty sure hypergear does a high flow that is 100% bolt on, it just doesn't make as much power as their bigger high flows.  Even if you get a hypergear turbo that requires you to chance the intake piping, it is a really simple modification. It can be as simple as a piece of silicon hose and you pop a filter on the end. It doesn't have to be some crazy pie cut titanium work of art intake pipe.  If you have the ability to swap the turbo yourself, you would be able to sort the intake piping out. 
    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
×
×
  • Create New...