Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ lol... maybe I'll use a 3" intake pipe and add in more bends.. that usually gets the suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutuuututuutut going LOL.

Anyhow, some real world facts to back up the results.. errbody likes timing maps, logs and dyno print outs LOL

Power Run Log (rename it to .csv)

final pwr.txt

Timing Map & Compensation Map

the reason it's so ridiculously advanced when there's loads of boost is because the normal 98RON runs crap all timing at high boost areas so I don't blow the motor to bits when it's on 98RON and accidentally run a little too much boost.

post-22311-0-10703600-1463917721_thumb.png

post-22311-0-60341200-1463917736_thumb.png

Andddddddddd Dyno Sheet

post-22311-0-18965800-1463917987_thumb.jpg

  • Like 7

Awesome result mate

I drove it before the tune and was already like a light switch when power come on

But the ext gate noise just made it feel that bit faster

Any plans to take it to the drags ?

Looks like that exhaust aint too bad as power isnt noseing off and boost is rock solid

500hp stock bottom end

It's so quiet now man, we could have a full conversation when it's on noise... I didn't even need earmuffs in the dyno room!

Of course man, I'll take it to the drags one night for shits and giggles, I'll give you a heads up too!

Well the entire system is 3.5" till the rear muffler at 3.25"... the front section of the cat back was chopped off and replaced with a 3.5" Hurricane round muffler.

Exhaust system wise, I think it's flowing just right.. I have the option of dropping the gate plumbing back into the system.. but with the power achieved and the boost response I doubt that there's much back pressure.

Some updates on the ATR45SAT CBB Turbocharger. made 336rwkws @ 22psi on Pump 98 fuel, internally gated bolton.

fronts.JPG

Sorry not the prettiest looking. I just can't get same power out of fancy looking bits.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

This turbo is big for a 3 inches turbo back system on an R34 GTT. I can't get much more power then the G3 SAT with exhaust connected. Result above was obtained from front pipe dropped before the cat. it would be a very nice turbo to run on an external gate off an factory exhaust manifold.

Thanks for the plot. Looks pretty accurate.

Here is another piece of data from last week's dyno run. It is an direct comparison of latest SAT CBB turbo assembly vs Plan bearing assembly In RB25det. Same car with same turbo, the only thing that has been changed is bush bearing to ball bearing. The differences made in response was 300RPM and Car's reaching peeking higher boost on lower gears. The CBB result was trailed back in 2012 using a much smaller shaft wheel assembly while its end result is not as tangible, the effect appears to be more tangible depending on the size of the wheel assembly or the total rotational mass.

bushvsballs.jpg

Thanks for the plot. Looks pretty accurate.

Here is another piece of data from last week's dyno run. It is an direct comparison of latest SAT CBB turbo assembly vs Plan bearing assembly In RB25det. Same car with same turbo, the only thing that has been changed is bush bearing to ball bearing. The differences made in response was 300RPM and Car's reaching peeking higher boost on lower gears. The CBB result was trailed back in 2012 using a much smaller shaft wheel assembly while its end result is not as tangible, the effect appears to be more tangible depending on the size of the wheel assembly or the total rotational mass.

bushvsballs.jpg

Interesting - Would it be possible to get mine redone with the different bearing for better response? If so how much would it be?

Re-highflowed one of blown Ebay's Highflowed OP6 turbocharger with one of our G3SAT Ceramic Ball bearing CHRA, Did a actuation test using their billet casing actatuors supplied. Appears some "pretty looking" parts does not work as well as how they they looked.

That billet 38mm internal gate is part of our G3 high flow profile, not what originally came with the turbo.

Photo one shown full actuator travel using ebay's actuator.

kando.JPG

Photo two shown full actuator travel using one of our standard 14psi actuator.

mine.JPG

Stao, are you still of the view that the 21u highflow would be too responsive with the ball bearing cartridge and create surge or have you tried it.

Still looking for the most responsive turbo for r34gtt and was looking at the 21u high flow with high flow actuator

The 21U is already super responsive in bush, there is no reasons to make it ball bearings as I've already trailed and compared. for R34GTT the best result I've trailed was G3 high flow using CBB cartridge with high pressure actuator.

S15 SR20, 250,000km old with full service history from older age owners, aust delivered.

Standard motor

headstuds and mls head gasket

BC 264 vtc delete and valve springs, rocker stoppers

6 boost, 45mmex gate

1000cc inj

walbro 460l

E85 plus pre turbo water injection

Hypergear Td06 20.5G 8cm T3 rear

19psi 314rwkw

23psi 366rwkw....power is still climbing..its just hitting the rev limiter

Tried to turn it up at end of night...made 386rwkw...at 28.7psi...lol...at only 5800rpm....then started misfiring.

Plugs where done and it was getting late in the night so we stopped for now..nice little turbo

We used a china cast t3 mani before and 38mm ex gate...went from 314rwkw at 23psi to 314rwkw at 19psi from just those changes to 6boost and 45mm..and spooled 300rpm quicker

To give you a idea how dyno reads, the best 0p6 hypergears hiflow skyline on 98oct has done 290rwkw at 19psi on this dyno, best skyline auto has done 260rwkw on 18psi on 98 oct

Now its onto getting the atr45.5 test car up and running.

cheers

Jase and Darren

Edited by jet_r31
  • Like 1

Sharing my 21u

That's monster power but seems to come on a bit late, if I'm reading it correctly? Full boost at 4.5?

Pretty sure efihardware and kudos do plugs here in Australia. Before that I purchased my VCT plug from wiring specialities in the US. Was only $6-7 I think.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...