Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe kind of weired questions, but what do you guys do with th bov, use stock one, block off or replace. And if you keep using them, aren't there some leaks ?

I bought a Turbosmart Kompact PB from Scotty's customs. Works a treat Stao also recommends changing stock one.

People also say you can use the GTR one

Maybe kind of weired questions, but what do you guys do with th bov, use stock one, block off or replace. And if you keep using them, aren't there some leaks ?

Using stock bov, nothing wrong with the GTT one at this power lever (sub 300).

Do those earl kits suit GT30 etc turbo's or only for stock replacement? and do they have the required restrictor or is the restrictor in the turbo already?

Using stock bov, nothing wrong with the GTT one at this power lever (sub 300).

Mine started to leak after around 6 months, mostly driven on low boost (284rwkw at 15psi) had to replace with a GFB plumb back and adjusted the spring tension to max. Made a massive difference. For a small amount of money I'd say its worth upgrading

delete BOV, done :)

Sounds mad too and gets the bitches - HWP may or may not love it though :P

---

Disregarding the legalities behind decat, Stao on your test cases did any of them have a cat converter? I would be interested to know how the exhaust tee compares/ed to the decat - I recall talking to Johnny and he mentioned 10kw gain just by going decat IIRC.

Edited by kingtube69

Water fitting on the ATR4xx turbochargers are in M18x1.5 same as OEM.

To get full power from the ATR45SAT internally gated version. It needs to be either in a 4 inches exhaust or a 3 inches pipe with 2.5 inches tee off factory front pipe. Exhaust on and exhaust dropped makes a noticeable difference in power.

Using stock bov, nothing wrong with the GTT one at this power lever (sub 300).

mine leaked straight away at 260rwkw through a auto..it leaked so much the external wastegate didnt open..lol

still made 260rwkw at 16psi on 98 octane with a hypergear g3 and a auto

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Hi All,

Just an FYI that Stao and I came across - I tested having the boost controller hooked up between the compressor housing and the actuator and then the charge pipe and the actuator. It seems that having it on the charge pipe I can achieve greater levels of boost across the board. I.E couldn't make 1 bar in first or second gear now it makes this and peaks at 18psi in third and so on easier now.

Quoting Stao's response after my test:

This experiment means there is quite a bit of pressure drop across the cooler, so the high pressure side would be opening the gate earlier while the lower pressure side will be holding the gate shut for longer, hence the boost gain. This is a good result, you might want to mention that in corresponding threads.

Hope this helps someone else with the same turbo (ATR45SAT on RB25)

  • Like 1

mine leaked straight away at 260rwkw through a auto..it leaked so much the external wastegate didnt open..lol

still made 260rwkw at 16psi on 98 octane with a hypergear g3 and a auto

cheers

darren

Kind of weird this matters, because a decent boost controller or even better, a decent ECU, manages the boost pressure with as reference the Map sensor, so even with a boost drop over the core, the boost controller should add a bigger amount of duty cycle at the boost solenoid leading to the actually boost pressure you want to entering the engine ... IMHO

Hi All,

Just an FYI that Stao and I came across - I tested having the boost controller hooked up between the compressor housing and the actuator and then the charge pipe and the actuator. It seems that having it on the charge pipe I can achieve greater levels of boost across the board. I.E couldn't make 1 bar in first or second gear now it makes this and peaks at 18psi in third and so on easier now.

Quoting Stao's response after my test:

This experiment means there is quite a bit of pressure drop across the cooler, so the high pressure side would be opening the gate earlier while the lower pressure side will be holding the gate shut for longer, hence the boost gain. This is a good result, you might want to mention that in corresponding threads.

Hope this helps someone else with the same turbo (ATR45SAT on RB25)

Thats because the pressure differences between your cooler, helps someone with the same cooler kit maybe. Makes no differences on my truck cooler :laugh:.

It is best sourcing waste gate pressure after throttle body, that gets rid of the variations of cooler kit.

You mean after the intercooler but before the throttle body, ie cold side :)

Taking pressure from the plenum to control either your internal or external gate will cause issues.

Thats because the pressure differences between your cooler, helps someone with the same cooler kit maybe. Makes no differences on my truck cooler :laugh:.

Yep makes sense now I think of it. Most people run the blitz coolers (like mine) so i would hope it helps a lot of people. What cooler are you running? Pics or gtfo :P

-------------

Charge pipe pre throttle body yielded the best results for me - Boost pressure is now about where I expect it to be but still suffering pressure dropping. I'll confirm by running the boost gauge pre cooler this weekend.

Just an update, I still haven't removed my old turbo.. I am so lazy these days..

New Year's resolution, remove turbo and send back to Hypergear for an upgrade :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...