Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, Super Drager said:

How tight of a fit is it? Doesn't foul on anything? 

It's a pretty tight fit but not impossible - Only thing it does foul on is the aircon drain pipe which I just chopped shorter. 
The only pain in the ass thing is the flange to manifold bolts are a bitch to get on and require some patience. 

  • 1 month later...

Some video footage from Last weeks Victoria Time attack at Philip Island GrandPix. 

ATR45SAT Turbocharger Powered Top Stage S14 SR20det (400rwkws @28psi, E85 fuel). Taking first in Modified class. Driven by John Richardson

 

  • Like 2

Posted in my own build thread, but relevant for this thread.

I got myself a Hypergear G3 high flow on a 21U turbo. I've had pretty good results, making 230rwkw @ 14psi on 98RON. This particular dyno graph shows boost dropping at the top end, this is because (due to my own request) Tao put on a 10psi OEM wastegate, and it just wasn't up to the task.

I've put on an aftermarket wastegate (pictured) and it now pulls 18psi happily all the way to redline.

I installed the turbo myself and it was very straightforward. Overall stoked with the results.

 

dyno.PNG

wastegate 1.PNG

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Just repaired a blown Borgwarner EFR with no exhaust wheel. Luckily the compressor wheel is undamaged. It has been fitted onto one of our ATR CBB cores with a custom grind turbine wheel to suit the original turbine housing profile. Looking to match original power figure before turbo failure, hopefully with a bit more torque through mid range.

orgcore.JPG

 

chra1.JPG

turbine.JPG

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted in my own build thread, but relevant for this thread.
I got myself a Hypergear G3 high flow on a 21U turbo. I've had pretty good results, making 230rwkw @ 14psi on 98RON. This particular dyno graph shows boost dropping at the top end, this is because (due to my own request) Tao put on a 10psi OEM wastegate, and it just wasn't up to the task.
I've put on an aftermarket wastegate (pictured) and it now pulls 18psi happily all the way to redline.
I installed the turbo myself and it was very straightforward. Overall stoked with the results.
 
dyno.thumb.PNG.9ba27bddec5b8d2d3cbac373685880c4.PNG
59870720d53b7_wastegate1.thumb.PNG.7c01332571db21538159e29105c149fe.PNG

Time for some e85 then
18 hours ago, hypergear said:

Just repaired a blown Borgwarner EFR with no exhaust wheel. Luckily the compressor wheel is undamaged. It has been fitted onto one of our ATR CBB cores with a custom grind turbine wheel to suit the original turbine housing profile. Looking to match original power figure before turbo failure, hopefully with a bit more torque through mid range

 

Post mortem review - what caused that failure?

 

First run with Brand new Ceramic ball bearing T4 print ATR44SS prototype hit the dyno this afternoon. Car made 406rwkws @ 22psi, Pump 98 fuel. full boost by 4000RPM. Stock 2JZGTE, sorry not an RB this time.

 

  • 3 months later...

Hello and greetings from Finland

I have had my skyline for 8 years now, and now its finally time to upgrade the turbo. I am looking for around 300rwkw with 98 fuel. With supporting mods of course. Since i have a limited budget i was thinkin of the ATR43G3SAT with thrust bearings. The price of that would be perfect, but i couldn`t find any dyno results or other info of that turbo with thrust bearings. I know that bb core is recomended with this, but i really like the price of the normal bearings and if it still would be good enough, it might be a choise. With bb core it seems to be really amazing. Or is there some other options i should consider? Maybe high flow or ss2? I am looking for the most cost effective way to get good end result.

 

 

For up to 300rwkws region a brand new ATR43G3SAT turbo is recommended.

ATR43G3SAT bush bearing, internally gated, P98 result based on a R33 Rb25det engine:

atr43g3power.jpg

atr43g3boost.jpg

 

  • Like 1

Thanks for the dyno graph. It looks pretty good in bush bearings too, but there sure is noticeable difference between ball bearings and bush bearings. About 70 Nm and 20 Kw in 3500 Rpm, if i looked correctly. I have couple of weeks time to think which one to get, before i get some money. I will go with teh ball bearings if i can afford them. If i can`t i will go with bush bearings. Either way i go, i think i will have a good turbo.

Back to back on the dyno measuring 4th gear paddle to the metal, there isn't that much of a visual differences to the curves. Take everyday road driving with partial throttle acceleration the differences are very noticeable. 

  • 2 weeks later...

There has been quite a number of updates applied in terms of wheels, housings and bearings in recent years so we will be starting another R34 GTT modification project, it will used in the development of our SS Ceramic ball bearing series turbochargers. 

lfront.JPG

Car is a 2000 model with 80,000KM on the clock, bought from an mature enthusiast whom spent quite few coins at it with:

 Split fire coil packs

700cc injectors (Bosch?) 

PFC ECU + Z32 AFM

3 inches Xfroce Varax exhaust 

Koyo radiator

High flowed OP6 turbo (appeared to be an old XTR model)

Walbro 255 fuel pump

NPC Heavy duty clutch

HKS return flow cooler kit.

cooler.jpg

Setup on the dyno for the first time, after few power pulls the turbo started to make some funny noises and we stopped it at 226rwkws at 11psi, Peeked 14psi at 4000RPM.

226rwkw.JPG

226rwkwboost.JPG  

Other issue worth mentioning is VCT. Using factory ECU/many aftermarket plugins, VCT solenoid produces a very distinctive "click" activation sound on throttle opening. PFC activates it in gear, so you should hear it clutched in 1st and a tap on the throttle. Mine is not clicking, later diagnostics have revealed signal output problems from the ECU. If VCT is not activated, there will be a lose in boost response by roughly 500RPM, and I found VCT problems frequently occurring with customers using old PFC plugins. 

vct.jpg

 I have re-high flowed the OP6 turbocharger using one of our ATR43SS2 ceramic ball bearing cores:

ss2front.jpg

ss2rear.jpg

  

Further dyno shown an improvement in response of 600RPM while a 27kws increase in power. 253rwkws @ 15psi

253rwkw.JPG

we had some boost taper issues on the dyno, and MAP comparison have once again shown a flow restriction caused by a return flow cooler. Boost pressure before cooler: 22psi, after: 15psi, pressure drop: 7PSI

253rwkwboost.JPG

 

The plan before my next dyno run is to trail PWR's vertical flow cooler as they do make one that bolt on to an R34 GTT and will be replacing the PFC with the latest Adaptronic Modular R34 plugin ECU.  

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...