Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
Wish i had more time when in Tassie, would have been great to swing by and look at the build. I would have sat there for hours talking shit :)

enough of that goes on with only 2 people there. sometimes a third comes along and you may as well pack the tools up and go to the pub at 10am because thats where we end up 5 hours later. :P

ben was just telling me hes been schooled propper like at project managing so i think hes gona get the whip out.

Wish i had more time when in Tassie, would have been great to swing by and look at the build. I would have sat there for hours talking shit :D

would have been good for you to come up to the good end of the state. talking shit isn't always a bad thing, some good ideas have come from shit talking.

ben was just telling me hes been schooled propper like at project managing so i think hes gona get the whip out.

your buggered now, i've fired up microsoft project. Your now a resource that will be assigned to tasks with a deadline.

Edited by sav man

nice. :) I like the buddy clubs. what size and offset are they? and can you pm me where you got them from and how much if you don't mind. :D I'm looking at more wheels for the 32 myself.

Something in those pics looks familiar, would love to come check it out sometime ben!

yes yes, you'll get some money for them.

6.4 cat back mate?.... that's .6 lighter than mine..... DAMN! lol

oh i know huuuge, your muffler must be light as. I'm hoping is will have a good note, ti exhausts always sound good. Cause sounding good is more important than anything else.

Did you happen to weigh the rear cradles? With the alloy hubs is the GTR rear end any lighter? Alsowhat Ti exhaust have you scored Marlin? My twin mufflerTi Trust exhuast is the street one which i am told is more expensive then the single muffler race exhausts...i am waiting for some dyno time to see if it makes the power i am after

More updates, adaptor plate is 95% done. Test fitting:

gallery_5985_3354_220144.jpg

gallery_5985_3354_118952.jpg

gallery_5985_3354_23483.jpg

I got two bars out of the brake booster, and cut and shut them to work without a booster. just need to get a sleave to go over it, to double make sure it's not going to brake.

gallery_5985_3354_357662.jpg

Alloy block to replace the booster, just need to find the new mounting point for the master cyinder, after changing the pedal ratio.

gallery_5985_3354_353037.jpg

ABS unit mounted:

gallery_5985_3354_136796.jpg

gallery_5985_3354_382348.jpg

Edited by sav man

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...