Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wished that the air bag wasnt there when I tried to get to the 8mm bolts, but it is and the way I went about it was to read up Predators Dash removal and then instead of removing the dash I proped it up enough to get my hand in and used a socket with an allen key to twist it, worked for me and now NO more noise.

Thanks to all who contributed without your help that noise would of drove me batty.

Edited by R33S2
  • 2 weeks later...

OK so i took the glove box out to have a look at this vent control box, this on a GTR

can only just see the arm that moves when you select different outlet(feet, face ect) but sounds like it doesn't move on all selections, is this normal?. When it does move to a different selction the air doesn't come out on that selection.

At first i thought the arm had come off but it look like it is still connected(im gonna bring a mirrior home from work to double check).

Also the cluncking/clicking sound gets louder then softer

ANY HELP/INFO WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED

Cheers

  • 3 months later...

This defeated me yesterday on a S2 R33. I loosed everything to get clearance but I couldn't get my hand in there far enough to have any idea what needed loosening. For me I would need to loosen the dash and lift it up to see what I am doing. I cbf taking the dash out after spending 1.5hr under there trying to get it loosened and tightened back up. My neck said enough was enough.

  • 2 weeks later...

if any one has a spare one I'll take it! I couldnt get the arm off either, applied too much force and it shattered into a million peices.. tried superglueing the lot but it was just a fail so i binned it.

Any help appreciated :)

Cheers!

Just removed the motor myself today.

I took some pictures, so I could see what it was I was trying to pull out. Figure it might help some of you.

1st pic is front of the dash

2nd pic is the actual motor itself. You have to wedge your hands in there to touch the motor.

I used a small 8mm wrench. I found it easier to remove bolt 1 of 2 with my right hand by just crouching in front of the car.

Bolt 2 of 2 I actually lied down on the passenger floor, so my face would be facing upwards and I used both hands to loosen the bolt.

Any other tips other than grease to prevent the gears from chipping again??

5907234173_131bc319e6.jpg

5907790274_d6ae329c1b.jpg

post-81368-0-40100100-1309927384_thumb.jpg

post-81368-0-40230700-1309927392_thumb.jpg

  • 3 months later...

geunine item is $250 PN 27736-70T00

dash removal is about the only real way to do it. I looked at it with the idea of accessing it WITHOUT pulling the dash - pass. dash out is far easier.

  • 1 month later...

did in my s1 r33 it works great no more noise :thumbsup: took me about half an hour

but +1 for the wearing gloves because you WILL stab yourself with the screw drivers!!!

also you can get all the clips of with out breaking them you just have to work your way aroundwith a small screwdriver untill it comes apart...and be very patient :/

  • 2 months later...

I had my dash apart for other reasons and swapped in a low k's halfcut item while I could. Problem solved. I did try and fix the old one, but that arm was not going to budge.

Now the one for the heater/air is dead. It started out with clicking, as it started not knowing when to stop. Now I think it's broken a tooth off the gear because the clicking has gone, but sometimes i'll get mad heat when it's set to 18 degrees with or without AC. The temporary fix is to up it to 32, then back to 18 and it seems to move the flapper and then it's all cool again.

Anyone know how to change that one? I'm not taking the dash out again! ;o)

The original noise happened when changing modes from face/feet/demister etc, so I assume the part we are changing here is the "mode" actuator in the attached pics. From memory, it seemed positioned more like the Mixer actuator. The noise (when it started) was closer to the drivers side for the second actuator issue... which appears to be the "mode" actuator. Makes no sense that way around though!

post-3573-0-38646400-1328560353_thumb.png

post-3573-0-12279100-1328560355_thumb.png

I had my dash apart for other reasons and swapped in a low k's halfcut item while I could. Problem solved. I did try and fix the old one, but that arm was not going to budge.

Now the one for the heater/air is dead. It started out with clicking, as it started not knowing when to stop. Now I think it's broken a tooth off the gear because the clicking has gone, but sometimes i'll get mad heat when it's set to 18 degrees with or without AC. The temporary fix is to up it to 32, then back to 18 and it seems to move the flapper and then it's all cool again.

Anyone know how to change that one? I'm not taking the dash out again! ;o)

The original noise happened when changing modes from face/feet/demister etc, so I assume the part we are changing here is the "mode" actuator in the attached pics. From memory, it seemed positioned more like the Mixer actuator. The noise (when it started) was closer to the drivers side for the second actuator issue... which appears to be the "mode" actuator. Makes no sense that way around though!

post-3573-0-38646400-1328560353_thumb.png

post-3573-0-12279100-1328560355_thumb.png

Yeah i have the issue with hot/cold with my r33 S1 also. had it for about 8 years now. in winter when i need hot, i up it to 32 degrees while car is on, i go under the dash on the drivers side, and i give the valve a helping turn, and it completes its cycle.

When i want cold in summer, i lower temp to 18, go under dash again and turn it back. been doing it so long now, its just normal for me now :)

in regards to this thread though, i also have the clicking issue so going to give it a go when i get home. I havent had face vents enabled in the whole time ive owned the car. When i eventually get it going, i expect 8 years of dust build up to blow out. :)

Yeah i have the issue with hot/cold with my r33 S1 also. had it for about 8 years now. in winter when i need hot, i up it to 32 degrees while car is on, i go under the dash on the drivers side, and i give the valve a helping turn, and it completes its cycle.

When i want cold in summer, i lower temp to 18, go under dash again and turn it back. been doing it so long now, its just normal for me now :)

in regards to this thread though, i also have the clicking issue so going to give it a go when i get home. I havent had face vents enabled in the whole time ive owned the car. When i eventually get it going, i expect 8 years of dust build up to blow out. :)

LOL!! That's pretty dusty! I get my aircompressor and the long nozzle blower and give it a blast now and then with the windows down and the doors open.

As for the helping hand, it sounds like the one we have the problem with is easier to get to? I haven't had a proper look yet.

Well i did this also. however, araldite not strong enough. the lever started to turn, then started clicking again until the lever snapped. tried it twice. maybe the rack where the lever fits into is caught else where and doesnt want to complete its full path.

ive given up for now, unless someone has any ideas

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...