Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not suprised, being auto...my 4294 with a .91 T6 housing wasn't any laggier than a 3540 1.06 on a RB30 single cammer really with a auto

only a split second was a 3540 better and then the 3540 got fiercely trodden on...

Edited by jet_r31

agreed that drag+auto = a totally different ball game when it comes to response. its got very little in common with response on a street or circuit car.

have had a 3076 on an old school 4 pot feel as responsive as a T25 SR with the right cam and stall combo. easy to do, just useless around a bend.

I had a 35r on a 6boost mani, I changed to a new 6boost mani and 7175, and it is more responsive In every way, makes more power earlier, power doesnt drop off, and builds boost on the tbrake significantly faster....

I had a 35r on a 6boost mani, I changed to a new 6boost mani and 7175, and it is more responsive In every way, makes more power earlier, power doesnt drop off, and builds boost on the tbrake significantly faster....

Must be moving on from older technology that did it...

Eagerly waiting results as this was the same path I wanted to go down! :) Built motor? Is the 6262 Gunna be pushed hard mate?

yea fully built 25/30, will be pushed hard eventually ;). Just dummy fitted the hot side tonight.

dscn0577x.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Edited by SilverECR33

Tossing up between a 6262, 6266 and 6466 on a stock capacity RB26... Looking for good response and 400-450rwkw on moderate boost 20-25psi

T4 0.82 divided rear... Want most of the boost all in by 4000rpm

Also is everyone just going journal bearing or running the ball bearing? I don't mind the extra cost if it's worth it

Tossing up between a 6262, 6266 and 6466 on a stock capacity RB26... Looking for good response and 400-450rwkw on moderate boost 20-25psi

T4 0.82 divided rear... Want most of the boost all in by 4000rpm

Also is everyone just going journal bearing or running the ball bearing? I don't mind the extra cost if it's worth it

Well after Jez's result on his standard 26, it'll be hard to go past the 6262. He made 402 at just over 20 -21 psi IIRC.

I've seen some photos of the 66mm cea turbine next to their older stuff... I'd be highly tempted as the aero looks great.

Question in my mind is 62 vs 64 compressor in terms of lag. Id be tempted to just go a 6466 for the headroom, coz u know u will end up with a dirty 30 lol

I've seen some photos of the 66mm cea turbine next to their older stuff... I'd be highly tempted as the aero looks great.

Question in my mind is 62 vs 64 compressor in terms of lag. Id be tempted to just go a 6466 for the headroom, coz u know u will end up with a dirty 30 lol

When I was comparing my 6466 to a 6262 a few weeks ago, the angle on the blades looked a little different but also the gap between the blades on the intake were signicantly more of the 6466. Both were CEA's

Hmm thats indicating its more than just a change in trim, the 64mm comp must have a way bigger exducer than the 62mm so its more or less an entirely difference turbo.

Like comparing a 3076 and 3082 I guess. Same stuff, different application entirely.

A link to a page with comparison to old tech 65mm wheel (I think the 62mm turbine is same tech) and compared to new 66 CEA turbine:

http://realstreetperformance.com/store/precision-billet-cea-6266-turbo-750hp-turbocharger-2709.html?zenid=59df912a5cff403c6491d3cf5176bc7c

FYI both 6262 and 6266 are rated as 700HP items. I'd be chasing that 66 CEA item, better tech is where its at.

Finally got the 5558 in today, can I use any 3" v-band flange off ebay (exhaust/dump side), and what oil line/fitting did you guys use - do I just go to Pirtek/Enzed or get an ebay jobbie - re: Kando lines fit? I am not sure if you just connect the oil line to part way in the existing line or get rid of existing and new one straight to block? thanks :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...