Jump to content
SAU Community

I would buy......  

95 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

not really sure about any of them except for the porsche and the e92 beemer, talk to munkyboy. he has been in a turbo one and said it hauled arse. not sure what exactly it had had done to it though, but i know it wasn't stock. he'll be able to tell you more

I reckon save yourself the trouble - buy Hannah some jewellery and get something properly fast.

I went the E46. Theres a blown one that comes into work that sounds nuts!

OK here is a nice range of cars to consider some quicker than others, some with 2 doors some with 4, some turbo some not, what would you go for and why????

I'm pretty sure the RS4 is a manual only proposition so it would depend if that mattered to you or not. Its definetly a tough call but I would be leaning towards the BMW's. But it would be hard to go past the M3, 3.2L straight six and 0-100 in 4.6 seconds stock. If you have a family or will have mates in it on a regular basis the 335i, if you dont have a family or are just having this as a weekend car I would go the M3.

E92 335i

I was blown away when I rode in it for first time.

Easily eclipse my 33R in terms of speed. That was just ecu flash thats it.

Wouldn't mind getting one when they're 'affordable' (in 10 years time!).

All amazing cars I'd be leaning toward the E46 or the 335i. I'm not a huge fan of the audis they just look too plain. If I was going to get a porsche it would have to be a 993 or 997.

Porsche :P .

"Por-shaahh, there is no substitute" haha

How many kids do you hear saying "when i grow up im going to get an RS4, it will go with my dull grey suit" :P

Edited by r33cruiser

i drove my mate's 335i. it's quick. very quick. somewhere near 300kw with just a chip and large amounts of boost. the stock bits can handle it too! but i wouldnt buy one. hated the interior. open wheeler diff. doesnt feel sporty for a coupe.

also, pretty sure it was over 100k. around 130k+

Edited by Munkyb0y

Yep brand new they are. However second hand depending on year model they can be had for $70k-$100k. My old mans buying one once his car is sold and he finds the right one (black in either manual or paddle shifts). A bit off topic but my best mate is taking a new X6 M series for a spin on Monday, twin turbo V8 2 tonne car that can do 0-100 in under 5 seconds :P

Edited by PM-R33
Yep brand new they are. However second hand depending on year model they can be had for $70k-$100k. My old mans buying one once his car is sold and he finds the right one (black in either manual or paddle shifts). A bit off topic but my best mate is taking a new X6 M series for a spin on Monday, twin turbo V8 2 tonne car that can do 0-100 in under 5 seconds :P

Yeah but the X6M looks like a rhino taking a shit. Its also deeply impractical if anyone over 5ft ever wants to sit in the back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...