Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok starting to build up a rb26 on a N1 block , i wanted to use HkS 2.8L stroker But, they have discontinued the step 3 gear :) , i fairly sure the only differences between step 2 and step 3 was the gudgeon pin size and the rods? can any one confirm?

so i was looking at Nitto and wondering how thier gear holds up? bit disappointing they don't make a 2.8L tho if their gear is strong i guess it doesn't matter so much.

so what i am asking is basically how does Nitto compare with Tomel , HKS and the like of jap brands?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

+1 for nitto parts, i use their I beam rods and oil pump in my gtr.

They seem to be made very well. the i beam rods are nice and thick.

If the 2.7 kit was available when i built my engine i would of gone with that. From memory its about $8000

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5424601
Share on other sites

To me, the Nitto products tick all the boxes, hence why we support the brand:-

Good value for money and realistically priced

Full billet, full counter weight crank for best rpm capability and harmonics

Quality forged piston with low silicon content to handle hp

I-Beam rods with quality bolts

Can handle plenty of boost, rpm and power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5424668
Share on other sites

i have nitto forged pistons and rods going into my 2630 :D i compared them to the cp shit (and i mean shit) and they r way f**king better and hold heaps more power. the rods even have this little channel drilled thru them to get oil thru coz the rb30s dont come with them from the factory.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5424754
Share on other sites

i have nitto forged pistons and rods going into my 2630 :D i compared them to the cp shit (and i mean shit) and they r way f**king better and hold heaps more power. the rods even have this little channel drilled thru them to get oil thru coz the rb30s dont come with them from the factory.

i am sure they make some good stuff

but until my machinist says " this is the shit to buy!"

then ill wait till he says that

when he says it then ill buy it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5424811
Share on other sites

ok starting to build up a rb26 on a N1 block , i wanted to use HkS 2.8L stroker But, they have discontinued the step 3 gear :D , i fairly sure the only differences between step 2 and step 3 was the gudgeon pin size and the rods? can any one confirm?

so i was looking at Nitto and wondering how thier gear holds up? bit disappointing they don't make a 2.8L tho if their gear is strong i guess it doesn't matter so much.

so what i am asking is basically how does Nitto compare with Tomel , HKS and the like of jap brands?

the step 3 differences were:

gudgeon pin size larger on S3 pistons (obviously comes with rods and pins to suit).

also, the S3 pistons have 3 coatings on them. off the top of my head they had moly coated skirts, titanium coated ring lands and ceramic coated tops/crowns.

crank is the same from memory and rods are the same too apart from pin size.

the S3 kit was fantastic no doubt but the S2 kit is still a serious piece of gear. I wouldn't hesitate in using one for a big build.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5424831
Share on other sites

i have nitto forged pistons and rods going into my 2630 :D i compared them to the cp shit (and i mean shit) and they r way f**king better and hold heaps more power. the rods even have this little channel drilled thru them to get oil thru coz the rb30s dont come with them from the factory.

CP pistons are shit? Every day you seem to amaze me...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5424901
Share on other sites

i have nitto forged pistons and rods going into my 2630 :D i compared them to the cp shit (and i mean shit) and they r way f**king better and hold heaps more power. the rods even have this little channel drilled thru them to get oil thru coz the rb30s dont come with them from the factory.

CP's are shit hey?

Well, glad you have the facts on that one. Go look at how many GTR's use CP pistons without issue. Also, have a look at which drag cars use CP, you'd better email those teams and give them the heads up aswel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5424906
Share on other sites

CP's are shit hey?

Well, glad you have the facts on that one. Go look at how many GTR's use CP pistons without issue. Also, have a look at which drag cars use CP, you'd better email those teams and give them the heads up aswel.

Last time i checked Godzilla Motorsport use CP and they are where in the world in drag times and make how much power. I use CP in my engine which makes 700hp at the wheels and does it with easy and i have a mates GTR engine that uses them and that makes 1000hp at the wheels and it does it easy. I dont dout that the Nitto parts are good but CP anit shit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5424938
Share on other sites

yeah I wouldn't say CPs are shit. they are built to a price and for the money they cost they do a fine job. they are nothing super special but they certainly aren't rubbish either. plenty of cars use them without problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5424980
Share on other sites

This is how perfctly good parts get into trouble. The Nitto gear seems good quality, has a few cars out there doing good things and are a credible product in their own right.

They could very well be better then CP or Arias. But that doesnt make the other brands sh1t. They other brands are proven in so many builds to the point that the same bad tune, wayward sprk plug tip, failed fuel pump etc would kill a motor with Nitto pistons as quickly as CP

I question having a rod and piston strong enough to do 200hp a cylinder in a 100hp a cylinder application. Its good, but surely it maybe just adds weight, cost or something to have so much head room.

Its been proven before that std rods are good for many GTR builds, basic forged pistons are good for serious engine builds and the basic R33-34 crank is a good thing. Is 8k for 100-150cc worth it over a build using $1200 pistons, balances std rods and std crank (hell a new one from Nissan is $1000)

So, if cash is no limit...go for it....but if you end up with 330awak turbos then what benefit is all the slightly better gear.

On a +400rwkws build I suppose is when you have to start looking at the positive trade offs of some of the Nitto or other slightly better quality gear

LOL, this if course the opinion of a guy that has never built an engine and drives a std RB20 "crate motor" :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5425227
Share on other sites

I question having a rod and piston strong enough to do 200hp a cylinder in a 100hp a cylinder application. Its good, but surely it maybe just adds weight, cost or something to have so much head room.

absolutely right. I'd treat nitto as a well priced high end option (ie for 5% of people) rather than a mass option.

when looking into the race regs for production cars, nitto were the only forged rods and pistons that came close to stock weight....all other brands were 15-25% lighter than standard. Great for me because I have to run stock weight, but its just overhead and overkill for 95% of people.

How many 1000hp engines are there in Australia?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335075-nitto/#findComment-5425924
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...