Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that interior looks neat as.... nice clean wiring too...

what are the mounts on the cage at the base near rear of drivers seat, they look like harness mounts but are too low surely??? what are they used for?

Indeed they are harness mounts, for the lap points. Good location really, between them and the shoulder straps mounted to the cage between the rear strut towers you are held firmly back and down into the seat. 2 more points under the seat for the 5th and 6th belts

Indeed they are harness mounts, for the lap points. Good location really, between them and the shoulder straps mounted to the cage between the rear strut towers you are held firmly back and down into the seat. 2 more points under the seat for the 5th and 6th belts

ahhh of course, nice...

should a half cage have the lap points on the cage as well or are the std seat mount points ok???

I'm ashamed I've only just stumbled across this thread Neil! Moving the cool car (read proper race cars with cages) threads from the Motorsport section was a mistake. I said that at the time.

Don't be ashamed mate,,,one of the biggest reasons I stopped posting was because of being made to post in this section.

I asked in the mod section why we couldn't have our race cars in the motorsport section,,,but R31Nismoid,,,Col-GTSX and N1GTR thought not,,,so that was that. Three experts no doubt.

So basically I have very little interest in posting in here.

Cheers

Neil.

should a half cage have the lap points on the cage as well or are the std seat mount points ok???

ACtually Schedule I of the CAMS manual (http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen_req/GQ10_Schedule_I_Q411.pdf) covers off their requirements (and recommendations), but fundamentally the shoulder straps should be horizontal to the shoulders, and as short as possible

The standard seat belt mounts are not OK according to CAMS because it is more than 40o downwards from the shoulders.

Zeb, this is the 5th car we've built over 10 years, and the biggest thing I've learned is racing is incredibly hard on cars. Anything that is not 100% OK will catch you out sooner or later - so do it right the first time. Neat is OK, but it more important to be simple and quality/reliable.

Don't be ashamed mate,,,one of the biggest reasons I stopped posting was because of being made to post in this section.

I asked in the mod section why we couldn't have our race cars in the motorsport section,,,but R31Nismoid,,,Col-GTSX and N1GTR thought not,,,so that was that. Three experts no doubt.

So basically I have very little interest in posting in here.

Cheers

Neil.

LOL...how old are you Neil? I am 35...so how long until I look at things with the same cheery/rosey perspective as you :nyaanyaa:

This car does look better in real life then in pics...

I mentioned to Neil I should get Duncan to wire up the rest of my car like neils is... Neil laughed at that idea... I'm assuming there was a lot of swearing while the car was wired up... Lol

lol I'm more surprised at how much does work than the few things that don't!

hope those screens do go in this week, I don't need bugs in my teeth.

It could do with a wheel align too Brad ;) Put a lightweight in the driver's seat for the cornerweighting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...