Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 17/01/2025 at 8:44 AM, GTSBoy said:

 there are better pumps that are near silent for less money from Ti.

What's the best straight swap fuel pump for an R32 Gtst these days? I looked at Ti website and found the 255 walbro kit for Skyline R33/34, but doesn't mention best Skyline

https://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/walbro-255lph-fuel-pump-kit-gss342/?srchy.source=srchy&_gl=1*1r4uarh*_gcl_au*MjQyMjM2NjAxLjE3MzcxOTQ5MDM.

When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit.

It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing.

https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD

Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.

  • Thanks 1

Nothing photo worthy since last update, lots of little plumbing bits for the AAC/Cold start valves, and unfortunately I still need another couple of parts for the brake booster line and the AAC into the plenum.

Otherwise it all looks good to start up engine wise, onto checking the electrics/interior

  • Like 1
On 11/23/2010 at 9:27 PM, Neil said:

Oh I have the soldering skills,,,and Duncan has them as well. Here's some pics of my stalk,,,

post-29-1290507893_thumb.jpg

post-29-1290507906_thumb.jpg

Do tell mate.

Oh and check out the Veuve in the background,,,nicely donated by Mrs Handley,,,the girl is all class.

Cheers

Neil.

Does anyone know if this is off centered? Looks like it, when I indicate to go right, but turn my steering wheel slightly left it cancels (was always like that even before I started messing around with it) was wondering if anyone else has the same issue?

1 hour ago, silviaz said:

Does anyone know if this is off centered? Looks like it, when I indicate to go right, but turn my steering wheel slightly left it cancels (was always like that even before I started messing around with it) was wondering if anyone else has the same issue?

No idea about Neil's steering wheel, but I have the same behaviour in the Stagea. I doubt it has ever been messed with so might be normal. Indicating to turn right at a roundabout and correcting even a little bit to the left to go around will cancel the indicator.

Never considered it an issue other than it being a bit odd.

  • Like 1
16 hours ago, silviaz said:

Does anyone know if this is off centered? Looks like it, when I indicate to go right, but turn my steering wheel slightly left it cancels (was always like that even before I started messing around with it) was wondering if anyone else has the same issue?

There's no way they left the factory like that.

In R chassis there is nothing stopping the steering wheel being put on one spline out from straight, and then adjusting the steering arms to "correct" it (sort of). As well as the indicator cancelling there would also be an issue with how tight you can turn in one direction to the other.

The other (less likely) possibility is that the "clock spring" (the circular electronic part that allows the wheel to turn while still having an electrical connection for horn and any other buttons like cruise) might not be in place correctly. I don't have any pics of the R33 (or Stagea) setup but there would be a circular locating tab which sits in the steering column to have it straight...if that is not seated properly then the indicators may not cancel at the right point (and, you might also get a HICAS error since it would think you are driving in circles)

  • Like 1
18 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

No idea about Neil's steering wheel, but I have the same behaviour in the Stagea. I doubt it has ever been messed with so might be normal. Indicating to turn right at a roundabout and correcting even a little bit to the left to go around will cancel the indicator.

Never considered it an issue other than it being a bit odd.

Ah ok, interesting.

3 hours ago, Duncan said:

There's no way they left the factory like that.

In R chassis there is nothing stopping the steering wheel being put on one spline out from straight, and then adjusting the steering arms to "correct" it (sort of). As well as the indicator cancelling there would also be an issue with how tight you can turn in one direction to the other.

The other (less likely) possibility is that the "clock spring" (the circular electronic part that allows the wheel to turn while still having an electrical connection for horn and any other buttons like cruise) might not be in place correctly. I don't have any pics of the R33 (or Stagea) setup but there would be a circular locating tab which sits in the steering column to have it straight...if that is not seated properly then the indicators may not cancel at the right point (and, you might also get a HICAS error since it would think you are driving in circles)

Yeah was gonna say as it wouldn't line up correctly, I imagine if they put the wheel that way it would mess with the wheel alignment.

20 hours ago, silviaz said:

when I indicate to go right, but turn my steering wheel slightly left it cancels

How slightly is slightly?

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

There's no way they left the factory like that.

I wonder if we have different thoughts on what slightly turning left means. I just tried this out and on mine you can turn the wheel somewhere between 45 to definitely less than 90 degrees before it cancels. Though I have to admit it feels much slighter in my memory than it is in reality.

See dramatic reenactment below.

 

 

43 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

How slightly is slightly?

I wonder if we have different thoughts on what slightly turning left means. I just tried this out and on mine you can turn the wheel somewhere between 45 to definitely less than 90 degrees before it cancels. Though I have to admit it feels much slighter in my memory than it is in reality.

See dramatic reenactment below.

 

 

Yep mine is more or less the exact same as yours.

To clarify what I posted above, I thought you both had a situation where it cancelled sooner one way than the other.....if it is reasonably even where it cancels in either direction that is probably normal (consider gentle movements like lane changes, you don't want it to need half a turn of lock to turn the indicators off)

  • Like 1

*edit* see post below, this is not correct!

Not a huge update because still waiting for some fittings for the intake.

But I did corner weigh the car, its enough to make a GTR driver cry at 1163kg (race ready except no fuel) 

Sorry about the terrible pics but I think they are readable

image.jpeg

With 70kg driver

image.jpeg

  • Like 1

He still had the suspension dialled in for him!

I would have sworn the lowest weight he ever got to was 1300kg though :/

Maybe Neil had been drilling a LOT of holes somewhere you haven't found yet... 😛

Or has he also drained all the gearbox and diff oil out too, between it, and a tank full of fuel there's about 65kg to 70kg to add back in I'd guess. 😛

Yeah it was a good result, and confirming the car is full of fluids and all interior etc in, other than fuel. I think a few pages back (maybe many pages!) he mentioned some serious lightening in the doors with the chassis punch, might have been done elsewhere I hadn't seen yet too

  • Haha 1

OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver

image.jpeg

And with a 93kg driver

image.jpeg

image.png

I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales

 

image.jpeg

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...