Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Peak Power at 5,500rpm! Noses over rather badly after 7,000rpm. He has HKS cams and what looks to be a 10cm exhaust. I wonder if its the std inlet that makes it fall over or simply the little 25G wheel running out of puff.

Would be a bit of an animal to drive with that graph. Makes me think Kando needs a T78 for all the RBDirty folk :)

I stick to my statement. Your always hanging around waiting and encouraging somebody else to try before YOU buy, I straight out don't appreciate that. There's a difference in attitude between quietly keeping an eye on someones build and purposefully encouraging them to hurry so you can see how it turns out for you own benefit. You have some audacity to talk about other members of this forum.

You can call me childish or whatever else you want, fact is I am an asshole and always tell it how it is. I'm not afraid to hear one more goof call me an asshole or a child or whatever else you would like to say, go nuts.

Fact is you and I watch the same threads, Ive probably inadvertently read 90% of your total posts, and I can safely say you have a crappy attitude towards this forum and the help you get from its members. End of story.

Do you really think I care what YOU think or appreciate??? RE: 'and purposefully encouraging them to hurry so you can see how it turns out for you own benefit.'..where are you getting THIS from?? Where did I say, 'hurry up, I wana see..' yada yada.. Even if I did, what is wrong with that/ Who are YOU to tell me what I should do?? Especially coming across as some stupid 'hero kid' with ginger just-grown pubes who thinks he can tell people what to do, you have been in here far far longer than myself, know more Skyline stuff than me, YET have very low levels of maturity and attitude. Grow the fk up you moron! I will ignore your posts now.

And of course I appreciate all the help I get on this forum, have said and thanked members countless times and helped others myself.

Peak Power at 5,500rpm! Noses over rather badly after 7,000rpm. He has HKS cams and what looks to be a 10cm exhaust. I wonder if its the std inlet that makes it fall over or simply the little 25G wheel running out of puff.

Either that or could it be that with those bigger cams the exhaust side is choking?

Edited by Rolls

I think the 25G wheel is just maxed out. If he had a bung in the housing seeing what the back pressure was you would get a feel for how the L2 turbine and 10cm housing are doing keeping up with the cfm from the 3L.

Wow, depressing to see how easy that thing makes power :(

Dam this is better then the plenum thread I opened haha can you guys make shorter posts makes the laughs come faster that's all. Hey dori throw the pop corn would you

Edited by Bsa

I think the 25G wheel is just maxed out. If he had a bung in the housing seeing what the back pressure was you would get a feel for how the L2 turbine and 10cm housing are doing keeping up with the cfm from the 3L.

Interesting though that the low boost run that makes 300rwkw also has the same drop off, does that mean that its not the turbo running out of puff but something else?

The compressor follows its "pump curve" based on the pressure ratio. So whilst you are limiting your shaft speed the the compressors ability to keep up with the breathing of the engine is going to be roughly matched at low boost as it will be at high boost. That's from 10 sec think about pump theory. Others should jump in if that's wrong

Re bigger RBs...yeh yeh. I enjoy playing with the little 20. The way I see it the lil 20 is like a fine tuning fork. If it works in the 20 it will work on the other RBs, however you may not notice the difference on the bigger RBs as they have airflow to burn and not as sensitive to changes :)

I think the 25G wheel is just maxed out. If he had a bung in the housing seeing what the back pressure was you would get a feel for how the L2 turbine and 10cm housing are doing keeping up with the cfm from the 3L.

Wow, depressing to see how easy that thing makes power :(

I doubt the 25g is out of flow, I did go an extra 30kw more than that. I would be pointing toward the cam timing being a bit shonky like most RB30's... There is no way that should dive like that after 5000rpm and when I have seen them do it in the past it's because the cam timing isn't set correctly

EDIT: I didn't realise it was a shitty R32 RB25 head, so that is probably more the reason :whistling:

Edited by SimonR32

holy crap cake, that 30 would be devestatingly quick for a traffic light warrior with soo much torque at those sort of rev's. I'm deffinitly sold that if I'm replacing my turbo it has to be a TD06H-25G or bigger. KD do make TD07 and TD08 turbo's so no reason they can't make a T78. probly just have to ask to have them to list 1 on ebay or the shop front. they Listed other things after I asked them questions on selling parts.

Re bigger RBs...yeh yeh. I enjoy playing with the little 20. The way I see it the lil 20 is like a fine tuning fork. If it works in the 20 it will work on the other RBs, however you may not notice the difference on the bigger RBs as they have airflow to burn and not as sensitive to changes :)

But like you said it sucks at making power easily.... why do you persist??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...