Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nothing earth shattering unfortunately;

Back to full soft on the BC BR front dampers after stepping up to the stiffest setting on the front sway bar. Got rid of the slightly darty response on some uneven surfaces. No real loss of turn in response, but much less "busy" on rough stuff, and I can always stiffen it up in seconds anyway.

Replaced the two bumper rubbers on my fuel filler flap P/N; 78837-AG000. The original ones were flat as a tack, and as a result the fuel flap never sat flush with the rear quarter; always a bit sunken.:down: Just a small detail, but it's been shitting me for ages.

Dropped a couple of Nutserts into the front bumper support to replace the holes I tapped to fit the mount for my trans cooler. Nothing wrong with them, but the Nutsert will be much more resistant to stripping out due to vibration than the holes into the soft alloy. Another thing that's been bugging me for a while.

Other than that; I also picked a length of 50x50x5mm 316 stainless angle to start manufacturing Heavy Duty rear sway bar upper mounts!:banana: More on that soon.

Edited by Daleo

Im interested to see pics of the HKS 350z turbo setup, most of the intercooler and piping wont fit by the looks of it but it comes with a fair bit of gear. At least you will have known results and great quality, the 3037 is a perfect size imo. What are your plans for the gearbox?

Engine out job for sure to fit the manifolds. Hopefully you can confirm they are stock VQ25det items.

I have taken inspiration from this kit for my adapter to fit the GTX3071 and external gate, hopefully I can jig it up and sell for anyone else wanting to upgrade to a Garrett as HKS aren't making any more kits and parts aren't available anymore. For mine you would just need the Tial housing (as it will make it much easier to fit and have better wastegate flow.)

Yeah, the piping might be a headache. It has been made to work on a V35 auto, so I'm not trail blazing. Basically 3 areas of concern (for me)- the outlet from the turbo fouling the LHS Driveshaft, piping to and from the cooler, and I think the Exhaust comes in on the same diagonal as a Z33, which means I might have to add a little/take a little to make it sit right.

I'll get some photos of the relevant spots for you Scotty asap. Don't expect the kit to be fitted overnight... I pretty much bought it because it was being discontinued and I couldn't not buy it at that price :whistling:

Gearbox will get a service/flush, and a cooler. We'll see how that holds up, It will be running really minimal boost, as per HKS recommendations, cause I don't want a rod out the block... As for building it up, well, i'll let the wallet recover first!

But If anyone finds one of those 4.2 stroker GTM motorsport FI sets that they want to give me...:ninja:

i also need to do this so interested in the part number.

my Air con stinks and I have a feeling this may be apart of the reason lol

Get the one carbon one that filters out ozone. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/129786-air-con-filter/page__pid__5429174__st__60#entry5429174

I thought the great big hole in the sky was letting all the ozone out, but apparently there's still some down here & it's not good to breathe :unsure:

  • Like 1

Get the one carbon one that filters out ozone. http://www.skylinesa...60#entry5429174

I thought the great big hole in the sky was letting all the ozone out, but apparently there's still some down here & it's not good to breathe :unsure:

Thanks mate appreciate it!!

Easy job replacing the cabin filter? Did you buy a cabin filter from Ebay?

Yeah the Cabin filter i got was one of the ebay ones, Charcoal Carbon Filters US$24.83 shipped to OZ

http://cgi.ebay.com/...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Where's the Second fuse box????? I know of the one behind the battery, I know of the one down near the accelerator pedal. Where's the other?

In my head the Fuse boxes are"

1, Driver Footwell Kick Panel

2. The Rectangle Box in front off the battery (Maybe more of a Relay box but theres fuses in there)

3. The box behind the battery on the firewall under the wiper trim, this is the one i didn't reliaze was there (which is probaly considered the main one)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...