Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lots of goodies arrived yesterday. HKS Fcon and harness, bonnet struts (thanks Cam!) and Deatschwerks pump.

I had one issue with the bonnet strut installation - bit hard to install when someone steals your drill! And here I thought everything was included... :nyaanyaa:

One question to people who've installed a fuel pump, Walbro etc: Do you buy a wiring kit or do you just go to Jaycar and buy all the bits outlined in the million and one how to guides?

Still need to order a fuel filter before I install it, and talk to the tuner about injectors. And settle on a tuner, I still have a couple of options.

Trying to run the deatschwerks on the stock wiring will end in tears, they draw way too much current for something so small and will definitely require a 30 amp relay and thick wiring at a minimum. I got mine from Jacar, I think it was a 60 amp relay with thick gauge audio power wire, run along the passenger side and under the back seat. Make sure you fuse it well and preferably run an earth from the battery too.

The old pump positive will need to be run the same way back to the relay in the enginge bay to turn the new pump on/off.

Still need to order a fuel filter before I install it, and talk to the tuner about injectors. And settle on a tuner, I still have a couple of options.

It seems the DW 1000cc injectors dont have the locking clips to hold them on to the rail, not sure I would trust that personally as all the other aftermarket injectors I have seen use them, even though their install docs say otherwise.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/383976-real-time-help-needed-dw950-injectors/

I replaced all the rear wheel studs and fitted the new shoes to the Stagea today.

BB5 LM 19 x 9.5 +25. 235/35 tyre.

IMG00291-20111125-1757.jpg

Looks sweet.

Can I ask, are your guards rolled, do they scrub at that height?

Looking at (when i sell my Pupra anyway)19x9.5s at around +15-+20 but that offset looks pretty spont on....

I assume you have a manual too.

Also Sika'd my side skirt brackets properly today....

I thought it came with the plug and some wire and you just cut and shunt it

You can, but looking at the flow graphs you get much more flow at the higher voltage. Seems like all aftermarket pumps are recommended to be hard wired.

Bob, there are a few people doing hard wiring kits, including Deatschwerks and Aeromotive.

It seems the DW 1000cc injectors dont have the locking clips to hold them on to the rail, not sure I would trust that personally as all the other aftermarket injectors I have seen use them, even though their install docs say otherwise.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/383976-real-time-help-needed-dw950-injectors/

I did see that. Interesting. My tuner doesn't seem to care, as long as he gets the latency info, which will save a heap of time. Leaning towards the ID1000s, just looking at pricing.

Are the Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors the same as the ID1000s? I've seen a couple of sites referring to them as "Bosch ID1000" or "Bosch EV14 ID1000".

Also are you running the 11mm or 14mm ID1000s? And which length (48mm or 60mm)?

You can, but looking at the flow graphs you get much more flow at the higher voltage. Seems like all aftermarket pumps are recommended to be hard wired.

Bob, there are a few people doing hard wiring kits, including Deatschwerks and Aeromotive.

I did see that. Interesting. My tuner doesn't seem to care, as long as he gets the latency info, which will save a heap of time. Leaning towards the ID1000s, just looking at pricing.

Are the Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors the same as the ID1000s? I've seen a couple of sites referring to them as "Bosch ID1000" or "Bosch EV14 ID1000".

Also are you running the 11mm or 14mm ID1000s? And which length (48mm or 60mm)?

Yeh the ID's are just flow matched Bosch ones with a little machining to the pintle end, nothing special, so are the Xspurts. I think they are the shorter ones at 48mm.

I would rather buy from the Aust distributor, Injectors online just for the warranty. They will also price match to some extent.

So we have had this stagea for about 5 years now and have never posted it here hehe it has been a great car for my wife, it is her daily driver and had minimal dramas. It is a 99 RS rwd auto yer baby :-)

Ok so my wife and I just had our first baby so while she could not drive I decided to give the old girl a birthday.

I fitted some BC V1 coil overs, new tie rod ends, new front pads, a service, replaced the leaking inlet cam lip seal and fitted a Thule luggage box for holidays. I know it's not as racy as some on here but this car serves us well and it is now kited out ready for another holiday.

e2285e80.jpg

So we have had this stagea for about 5 years now and have never posted it here hehe it has been a great car for my wife, it is her daily driver and had minimal dramas. It is a 99 RS rwd auto yer baby :-)

Ok so my wife and I just had our first baby so while she could not drive I decided to give the old girl a birthday.

I fitted some BC V1 coil overs, new tie rod ends, new front pads, a service, replaced the leaking inlet cam lip seal and fitted a Thule luggage box for holidays. I know it's not as racy as some on here but this car serves us well and it is now kited out ready for another holiday.

e2285e80.jpg

'Bout bloody time you post in here, Ryan. I've always wanted to know what your car looked like.

I called up my local Nissan dealer today for some pricing.

Fuel filter at trade was $35. I thought that was ok.

Ball joints I wasn't prepared for. Nissan wouldn't sell me the ball joints on their own, I had to buy a spindle. FOR $806 PER SIDE! $1600 FOR BALL JOINTS?!?!

So I'll be ordering them from ebay shortly, where they're around $62 for a pair. Thanks to Dale for his help in confirming the 350Z/V35 ones will fit.

On the plus side, at least Main North Nissan would look up parts for an import. I was all ready to ask for 350Z bits and started with the import bit just in case. Looked it up, easy!

On the plus side, at least Main North Nissan would look up parts for an import. I was all ready to ask for 350Z bits and started with the import bit just in case. Looked it up, easy!

Those guys are legends. The fact that you can walk in say "M35 Stagea" and they know what you're on about is pretty cool. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...