Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are the HD brackets free when purchasing from Dale?

No, not free but not expensive either. They aren't a catalogue item. Dale made them / got them made for us.

Are they needed? Id assume if they are Whiteline would offer them?

Now I'm testing my memory. I think a couple of guys with sway bars had the rear mounts crack under the extra load, hence the manufacture of the HD stainless items. Someone with a better memory (or better search skills) might be able to help more.

And they're very nice and shiny. I wouldn't know if they're necessary or not, but they're a lot beefier, and I have no complaints at all.

I think Dale makes them himself out of stainless?

Hey guys, thanks for the support, but I'm not worried if people use 4bidn to buy parts; we're not competing, and I haven't got a bad word to say about him. We're all enthusiasts; and white anting each other benefits no-one.

I'm sure he'll help you out if you decide to purchase through him, and you can always use Whiteline as a resource; their reputation is built on supporting enthusiasts.

I think in the original instance Big Fella was referring to; I wasn't able to give the lowest price due to the fact that I was paying a higher price on individually ordered parts, as opposed to Group Buys.

If you have a legitimate price; I'll happily tell you if I can do better. Postage does hurt the end cost, as it adds a minimum of $20 to any order; they're on the maximum Auspost length and around 14 kg. It's still stacks cheaper than any other option.

I just want to help people get what I have; an awesome handling Stagea, and I've been playing with cars for a long while now, and made a few mistakes along the way, so I've got a fair idea what works, and what doesn't. You're welcome to go your own way.

Cheers, Dale.

Edited by Daleo

Maybe 'cause of freight costs? But can he provide the heavy duty rear brackets? Does he provide the same back up service as Dale? I'd pay a bit more just for that....

And that's why I was referring slippy lotion onto him, he is in Sa, works for a national retailer and would have no reason to not help out.

I get all my parts for my own business thru Jason and have never had an issue with returns or exchanges(even when they were my fault)

Just trying to help out, next time I'll stay quiet instead of getting flamed for providing an option.

I don't think there was any flaming, just those outside of SA don't know Jase, but have dealt with Dale. :thumbsup:

For those with M35s it's worth looking at those HD brackets, or making up your own if you can?

Sorry Robbie, no flame intended. I read my post back & it did have a 'tone' pinch.gif. Extra options are always welcomed.

I just wanted to back up Dale as I was impressed by the lengths he went to for the GB. It's always more than just emailing the supplier for some parts. Heck, he was that swamped he even had to enlist his 2yo to tape up the swaybars for posting, lol.

Re the rear mounts, they may not be necessary, but I hate doing stuff twice.

All good, just thru rebuilding cars over time I've been stung by buying stuff that's "rare" or hard to get so i bought it online, only to find it would have been cheaper to walk into a shop and buy it locally.

And like most small business owners (tiny really) I like people to buy as local as possible and still get a killer deal.

And no one worry, I didn't take it to heart, its just my small man syndrome coming out :)

Ill leave all of you stagea owners alone now and sulk off back to my empty garage :(

Now I'm testing my memory. I think a couple of guys with sway bars had the rear mounts crack under the extra load, hence the manufacture of the HD stainless items. Someone with a better memory (or better search skills) might be able to help more.

Yes, The Mounts do crack and brake. I replace 3 of them over 18months before putting on the one from Dale. No problem since.

And the last 2 brakes happen when I had my rear bar on the mid setting not the stiffest.

I believe mine mostly cracked when running on a long trip with a full load.

Cheers

Andy

You stripping it back anyway, even though it's running?

You asked if it was running......yes it was.....you didn't ask if it was drivable! :P

I didn't have much of a choice unfortunately I had to detune the thing to cross of possible causes...........that I still have the problem is a bit of a worry.

I basically have 2 signals going to the CAS....somehow!rant.gif

P.S. I did get the car to have a clear run once or twice with the CAS connected and only 14psi!....still goes a lot better than standard......it's just not silly anymore.

Edited by Jetwreck

So I cracekd the TIG out last night and welded up a cat to fit the exhaust up (finally).

China front pipe with flex, Catco high flow 3", and a Fujitsubo cat back. It's to suit an N/A so that's the reason the cat had to be fiddled. Ended up lengthening it 120mm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...