Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll make some local calls and see how we go.

They do a G35x version, so I'm guessing our undertray isn't the same as 350Z. I'm wondering how different the shape of ours would be compared with the G35 too...

Looking at the undertrays on the website the G35x ones are the same shape as our undertrays. I will take the gamble... No way you would get one locally for that price, I wouldn't even bother making myself one.

It's the shipping price that's the killer Scott, calculated cubically I think. I've had a quote of $100+ to ship one over.

By the time you add shipping to it, you're getting to the point where it may be cheaper locally. Not sure how expensive they'd be to ship around domestically for a group buy though.

Maybe we should make another thread on this instead of clogging this one up?

Took my car to Pukekohe yesterday (its going to be closed for a few months as they do it up for the Auckland round of the Aussie touring car series). ATM I have 280awkw but annoyed to find it still not good enough to beat my mate's Subaru WRX RA version. They were a lightweight rally special with over 200awkw and I expected him to beat me in the corners but I couldn't catch him in a straight line either. My timer packed up so my only lap time was a 1.20.4 and I was hitting 240km/hr at the end of the back straight. Next step (when I have the cash) is a couple of reground cams and a full tune - aiming for something like 330kw or hopefully a bit more.

Took my car to Pukekohe yesterday (its going to be closed for a few months as they do it up for the Auckland round of the Aussie touring car series). ATM I have 280awkw but annoyed to find it still not good enough to beat my mate's Subaru WRX RA version. They were a lightweight rally special with over 200awkw and I expected him to beat me in the corners but I couldn't catch him in a straight line either. My timer packed up so my only lap time was a 1.20.4 and I was hitting 240km/hr at the end of the back straight. Next step (when I have the cash) is a couple of reground cams and a full tune - aiming for something like 330kw or hopefully a bit more.

I think you have done damn good. He has slightly better power to weight and possibly a close ratio box. What yr model RA ?

good to hear it ran well mate.

she's a big heavy car....what tyres are you running?

Ex NZV8 17in slicks

I think you have done damn good. He has slightly better power to weight and possibly a close ratio box. What yr model RA ?

I think it was 2001 - came from Possum Bourne Motorsports (was in storage for 10 years and has only done a genuine 10,000km) and has only mild mods - chipped or tuned ecu, better brakes and semislicks -

Any C34 owners who are looking for a cheap master cylider stopper

have a look at gktech: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/r33-skyline-brake-master-cylinder-stopper-clearance.html

They are clearing their R33 ones for $22! I've just ordered one but im not 100% certain the fit but im pretty sure they will

Looking at the undertrays on the website the G35x ones are the same shape as our undertrays. I will take the gamble... No way you would get one locally for that price, I wouldn't even bother making myself one.

They're not the same as your undertray. The G35x is the same as my undertray.

gktech stuff marked as shipped

boost controller arrived in qld

will order fuel pump soon and book a flight back to qld

should see my car in a couple of weeks :D

also, i made a stagea facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/117917321698843/

just to make it more socially available (a lot of stagea owners don't know about the SAU section here)

also, i made a stagea facebook group: https://www.facebook...17917321698843/

just to make it more socially available (a lot of stagea owners don't know about the SAU section here)

This one is actually quite active https://www.facebook.com/groups/17462900896/

This one is actually quite active https://www.facebook...ps/17462900896/

dammit, i searched on fb and couldn't find anything

i'll join that and pull mine down then!

Installed an Apexi AVC-r on the weekend, anyone had any experience in setting up the speed/gears business, the manual doesnt really explain what the numbers mean.

Hardest part was hiding everything under the bonnet, I need to make a better bracket for the solenoid valve as hanging it off one airbox mount is a bit average.

Should compliment the dump and cat installed a month or so back.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=167038

I have used this guide both times i've set up my AVC-Rs. You will want to make up a rubber isolation mount for the solenoid to reduce the noise.

Had my D/S inner CV boot replaced today; it split a couple of weeks ago.

Had a bit of a chat with the CV guy, as he hadn't ever seen a Stagea; so wasn't sure what he'd need to charge.

Quoted a top end of $200; but said it would probably be less.

Get a call about 2 hours later; cars finished!

Then I get "Holy fark mate, what the hell is the go with that car? Took a little test drive to make sure everything was ok, pulled out the driveway, and nearly ended up in the back seat!"

Ended up chatting about the car for about 45 mins when I picked it up; he couldn't believe Nissan never brought it to Aus, same deal as everyone else that has driven it. He was looking forward to Nissan belting the other V8's with that "Quad cam beast of a motor".

He told me they'd gone right over it when it was on the hoist; couldn't believe how well built it was.

Ended up charging me $100 for the job, and that I was welcome to bring it back any time...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...