Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Waiting to see how badly scored the bores are, then it's on to ordering new pistons rods and incidentals.

Does anyone know if R33 GTR front strut braces fit a C34 S1 RSFour?

Also looks like I'll be getting the PFC EL commander to replace the oldschool, scratched unit I have moulded behing the gear stick: I may actually be able to read it... ;) between nasty scratched lens, and the heat from the trans tunnel, the LCD unit is Very hard to read on the fly...

R33 gtr strut brace should fit seeing my 260rs has one fitted from factory! Looks exactly the same as my mates on his gtr

Black vacuum hoses would have been stealthier :P

Blah blah blah :P

Fitted Scottys bastard cooling mod. Instructions and the whole sordid install tale to follow.

Blah blah blah :P

Fitted Scottys bastard cooling mod. Instructions and the whole sordid install tale to follow.

What was the problem Ryan? Bit messy if you are not flushing the coolant, but other than pretty straight forward, no?

I'll write it up tomorrow Cam, knackered now. I got photos of absolutely everything, and it will definately be an idiots guide to doing this.

So many things I wished I'd known in advance that will help the next person.

I'll write it up tomorrow Cam, knackered now. I got photos of absolutely everything, and it will definately be an idiots guide to doing this.

So many things I wished I'd known in advance that will help the next person.

woohhoooo cheers Ryan :)

Got bored this arvo so I threw one of these in my car

rQiWq.jpg

But unfortunately I've imposed a ban on driving my car until some other parts arrive, which will hopefully be this week - and THEN I can find out if it makes any difference :ninja:

Got bored this arvo so I threw one of these in my car

rQiWq.jpg

But unfortunately I've imposed a ban on driving my car until some other parts arrive, which will hopefully be this week - and THEN I can find out if it makes any difference :ninja:

Put your car on a dyno in case the afrs and timing are all wrong. Presumably its not the tunable type?

Got bored this arvo so I threw one of these in my car

rQiWq.jpg

But unfortunately I've imposed a ban on driving my car until some other parts arrive, which will hopefully be this week - and THEN I can find out if it makes any difference :ninja:

Sooooo your the one that got that! I thought it went to LEKS! Bastard! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...