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Your thermostat is not like the unit on the wall that controls your central heating - it just increases the flow through the radiator and once its open the Nismo is no different from the stocker so on a hot day both will be open but the amount of cooling done by the radiator will be exactly the same i.e. a thermostat that opens at a lower temperature will not cool your engine any better than one that opens later once that temperature has been reached.

Spot on Kiwi; and in conditions below mid 30's; my car runs cooler across the board.

The most beneficial move you can make with the NM35 is to fit an efficient, high capacity radiator. Look for one that retains the A/T heat exchanger in the bottom tank.

With the OEM radiator; my car never ran below around 92 deg; now my car rarely goes over that in any conditions, and if it does it is a brief spike, then back down again.

This is what I have; http://www.mishimoto.com/infiniti-g35-performance-aluminum-radiator-03.html

For the current best deal; and suppliers you'd be best to speak with Scotty, as he used to bring in a few at a time to minimise shipping cost.

It won't run cooler with the Nismo thermostat - it will just take longer to warm up. Stock is best.

As long as there is flowing air (ie, not stop/start traffic) this is incorrect.

Opening at a lower temp makes it easier for the cooling system to keep the temps lower although it does depend quite a bit on the rest of the cooling system.

I have one on my PNM35 along with our "coolant mod" although I still run the standard radiator. Stock temps sat at 92-93 degrees highway travel in the middle of summer whereas in the current configuration, I see a constant 82 degrees in the same conditions.

Once I hit stop/start traffic, the temps will rise obviously due to a lack of airflow until the thermo fans kick in.

As long as there is flowing air (ie, not stop/start traffic) this is incorrect.

Opening at a lower temp makes it easier for the cooling system to keep the temps lower although it does depend quite a bit on the rest of the cooling system.

I have one on my PNM35 along with our "coolant mod" although I still run the standard radiator. Stock temps sat at 92-93 degrees highway travel in the middle of summer whereas in the current configuration, I see a constant 82 degrees in the same conditions.

Once I hit stop/start traffic, the temps will rise obviously due to a lack of airflow until the thermo fans kick in.

Of course you are assuming that it is better to run at 82deg than 92 deg.

Minor update for me and photo's to follow tomorrow as I have the day off...

Tail Shaft for my M35 sorted so the obvious thing to do was for the mechanic to take it for a drive and see how it plays with the 350z 6sp, stock ECU with emanage in place. All reports are that it drove fine, still came on boost no probs and besides the 4wd light being on there was no signs of limp mode or any issues which is pretty cool. Our initial thought that the manual shifter might slightly rub on the centre console mount is apparently a non issue as all gears engage with zero rubbing.

I'm going to hopefully take it for a quick spin tomorrow with the only outstanding job now being the handbrake.

Like i said, i'll take a few pictures tomorrow but won't spend a heap of time with the car so as not to get in the way... that and it's too damn hot in Adelaide at the moment :P

  • Like 6

Great job Beau. like we discussed the mechanical side was bound to work, good to see the electronics didn't play up. I would probably get it on a dyno to make sure the curve is similar and the throttle is opening fully. Also that the cams are operating correctly, but it's looking promising so far.

What are they doing with the reverse light etc?

Lads,

Ok a quick drive but i didnt take any photo's as it doesnt look any different to last week, it wasn't on the hoist and its waaaay too damn hot in Adelaide (42 degrees)

Scotty, The jobs left to do are reverse light, hand brake, a few engine bay trims and something to do with the push rod or clutch or some such as it's making a tiny noise when fully engaged... yep i have no idea what that's about.

Now... please keep in mind i haven't driven a manual in many years so the first few minutes i was getting those normal skills back but under normal driving it was great. Nice and smooth, the pressure / clutch point seemed a bit high but after a few minutes i was use to it. The gaps really started to show when you gave the car a bit and until i get it on a dyno i guess not much can be answered but i assume it has a lot to do with the SS2 Hypergear and the original tune of the emanage but it's quite laggy. I don't have the brake cut mod (which i don't know if thats still relevant without the auto now??) and while i gave a couple or squirts from stationery it still seemed a bit hesitant to make boost until 3500-4000+. Once on boost yes things were good and the car does feel lighter than i remember. Despite this thanks to the manual it felt a lot more spritely overall.

Not a whole lot i could discover in the short time i went for a drive but once i get the chance i'll get it in to have the tune looked at. I may be getting a head of myself but i'm thinking of moving my immediate attention from the Emanage / Link decisions and looking at turbo choices and see what i can get the emanage to do with whatever turbo i use. Again this is all pending on what the current set up is doing once a competent tuner can have a look at it.

I have to say though.... so freaking awesome driving my car as a manual. If not for the heat i would have stayed longer but it's stupidly hot here. I'll have to try and take some video footage (maybe buy myself a go-pro for xmas) to share the joy.

If i am able to have the car back for the xmas break expect a lot of info, photo's etc etc and i'm happy to answer any questions.

My end hopes are as this is my daily / family car to eliminate a heap of the lag and have a solid boost curve that can be used day to day. I think some of you blokes are saving me a lot of the hassel with all this turbo talk at present.

Oh and i will want a set of Work Meister 3p in white with polished lip :P

  • Like 2

Unfortunately you gained a little lag by ditching the converter, this can be worked around by accelerating more before side stepping the clutch pedal. :P

I guess all those things will come with time :P

Super impressed with the work done so far. My nismo gear knob should arrive today looking at the tracking number too :)

Somwthing a lightweight flywheel may fix? Sound may be from the bearing from engaging the clutch. Is it like a squeaking or almost shearing sound?

Umm.. my mechanic mate said it just requires some adjustment of some sorts (excuse my lack of knowledge). Not a shearing sound at all.

From memory we put a lightened flywheel in to suit the exeedy clutch.

Lads,

Ok a quick drive but i didnt take any photo's as it doesnt look any different to last week, it wasn't on the hoist and its waaaay too damn hot in Adelaide (42 degrees)

Scotty, The jobs left to do are reverse light, hand brake, a few engine bay trims and something to do with the push rod or clutch or some such as it's making a tiny noise when fully engaged... yep i have no idea what that's about.

Now... please keep in mind i haven't driven a manual in many years so the first few minutes i was getting those normal skills back but under normal driving it was great. Nice and smooth, the pressure / clutch point seemed a bit high but after a few minutes i was use to it. The gaps really started to show when you gave the car a bit and until i get it on a dyno i guess not much can be answered but i assume it has a lot to do with the SS2 Hypergear and the original tune of the emanage but it's quite laggy. I don't have the brake cut mod (which i don't know if thats still relevant without the auto now??) and while i gave a couple or squirts from stationery it still seemed a bit hesitant to make boost until 3500-4000+. Once on boost yes things were good and the car does feel lighter than i remember. Despite this thanks to the manual it felt a lot more spritely overall.

Not a whole lot i could discover in the short time i went for a drive but once i get the chance i'll get it in to have the tune looked at. I may be getting a head of myself but i'm thinking of moving my immediate attention from the Emanage / Link decisions and looking at turbo choices and see what i can get the emanage to do with whatever turbo i use. Again this is all pending on what the current set up is doing once a competent tuner can have a look at it.

I have to say though.... so freaking awesome driving my car as a manual. If not for the heat i would have stayed longer but it's stupidly hot here. I'll have to try and take some video footage (maybe buy myself a go-pro for xmas) to share the joy.

If i am able to have the car back for the xmas break expect a lot of info, photo's etc etc and i'm happy to answer any questions.

My end hopes are as this is my daily / family car to eliminate a heap of the lag and have a solid boost curve that can be used day to day. I think some of you blokes are saving me a lot of the hassel with all this turbo talk at present.

Oh and i will want a set of Work Meister 3p in white with polished lip :P

Sounds like fun! Have you (or others) looked into fitting a manual throttle? Long term if you want to maximise performance I would suggest selling the Emanage set up and getting a Link which will enable you to finely tune boost (and a decent wastegate unless you have an internal on the turbo)

Sounds like fun! Have you (or others) looked into fitting a manual throttle? Long term if you want to maximise performance I would suggest selling the Emanage set up and getting a Link which will enable you to finely tune boost (and a decent wastegate unless you have an internal on the turbo)

I have a cable throttle on mine with an adaptronic ecu

  • Like 1

Yeah at this stage i was mainly interested in simply getting the thing running as normal with the 6speed.

Next will be worrying about getting the performance i would like through ECU / turbo choice but remember... daily family car :P

Edited by Beregron

cracked air bleed T-pipe during flushing radiator, Nissan asked $44 and will ship from Melbourne.

the stock one is like paper over 12 years.

post-137368-0-14309800-1450423324_thumb.jpg

post-137368-0-21189900-1450423327_thumb.jpg

walk to Bunnings and found some alternative solution. copper T-pipe with big air bleed hole, also come with copper block plug

post-137368-0-79991800-1450423330_thumb.jpg

post-137368-0-34143600-1450423599_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

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