Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hunting down a intermittent engine light issue. I have narrowed it down to something in the dash or the actual dash. Iv pulled everything out and cleaned jiggled wires. Just a question for those in the know, what is the black box with all the wires that is on the right hand side of the dash hole?

actually I was just poking around under mine today, and I have a black box with lots of wires between the fuse box and the driver's kick panel, its a kind of super interior box which beeps, does central locking etc etc.

why do you think the problem is under the dash. do you know what the error code actually is?

Error code is primary ignition, but since she is a wasted spark set up with a new coil pack it's pretty unlikely. That and if I bang the dash the light goes out. I messed around behind the dash and the light stayed off for 100km then came on, then bashed the dash and now it's off again. I'd like the fix to be permanent as I'm trading her for a pnm35.

It could be, but I would prefer to not spend 1 k refitting the original coil set up, on a car I am getting a 2k trade in on. The C34 has had the wasted spark set up over five years and runs great. The car still runs great! The new coil pack and ECU reset has made it run even better! But the engine light issue is only a year old, and as I said goes away when I hit the dash. The only success I have had in keeping it off is by messing around with the wiring behind the dash. Hence why I believe there is so thing lose back there that is causing the engine to short on and off. Or that's the theory today.

It could be, but I would prefer to not spend 1 k refitting the original coil set up, on a car I am getting a 2k trade in on. The C34 has had the wasted spark set up over five years and runs great. The car still runs great! The new coil pack and ECU reset has made it run even better! But the engine light issue is only a year old, and as I said goes away when I hit the dash. The only success I have had in keeping it off is by messing around with the wiring behind the dash. Hence why I believe there is so thing lose back there that is causing the engine to short on and off. Or that's the theory today.

Recently had the rust repair done on both of my cars ($1360 for both). (about 4 weeks ago now). Since we have decided to put my RSfourS up for sale. Not wanting to let it go due to plans for it. but if it sells it sells if not ill be happy to keep it with the rust repaired. but selling as we are looking to upgrade to a bigger car (Elgrand). I will post link up at some point or if anyone is interested (tuned to 244KW, high km's chassis low km's engine, $16,000 atm) it will definetely be missed.

So next on my to do list was to upgrade the cooling system on my M35. Radiator, coolant bypass mod, water pump, Nismo thermostat and I also got a high pressure Nismo cap which I put on straight away because it looked pretty. Probably not the best idea as after about two days the top tank on my radiator has cracked. Maybe coincidence as it was 13 years old but I don't think so. So when my new radiator with plastic tanks turns up (thanks Scotty), should I ditch the Nismo cap? Anyone been running a Nismo cap on a plastic tanked radiator for any length of time?

So next on my to do list was to upgrade the cooling system on my M35. Radiator, coolant bypass mod, water pump, Nismo thermostat and I also got a high pressure Nismo cap which I put on straight away because it looked pretty. Probably not the best idea as after about two days the top tank on my radiator has cracked. Maybe coincidence as it was 13 years old but I don't think so. So when my new radiator with plastic tanks turns up (thanks Scotty), should I ditch the Nismo cap? Anyone been running a Nismo cap on a plastic tanked radiator for any length of time?

Plastic top tanks do fail but a brand new one should be fine with the new cap. But ditch the Nismo thermostat - it serves no useful purpose but just delays warming up to optimum operating temperature.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...