Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Scotty says he has a tiny bit of rubbing on full lock.

Plus had to roll the rear guards.

19 x 10 + 30 all round

You might need the Axis ride height for 20's

Edited by conan7772

Yeah i read that somewhere. Do you know what size spacers.

As the others have said, 15 or 20mm.

I run 10mm on my Nismos which are 19x9.5 +40 and have no rubbing.

I don't think I could get away with 5mm spacers, nor would I try for that matter as there is not much room in there.

So I finally get around to doing a few things today.

Replacing a burnt out globe in the cluster, its only the shifter position but it pisses me off at night.

Replacing the weeping radiator. Just ordered one from Natrad $260 inc!!! Bursons wanted $465 (for the same thing). Pickup at 1pm and then the fun begins.

Edited by malialipali
  • Like 1

fan clutch has a little bit free spin, but there is no overheat problem atm. i know most people would say don't change it if no overheat problem, but i want to keep engine more cool!

so ordered new fan clutch (Shimahide branded from JP). now i could feel very noticeable strong wind under bonnet

for someone who has overheat problem, try to change the fan clutch. even though you test the stock worn viscous fan in cold and it is tight enough with just little bit free spin angle. it may have huge difference if you change new fan clutch.

made in JP

post-137368-0-53397300-1465281410_thumb.jpg

good quality

post-137368-0-04683300-1465281416_thumb.jpg

post-137368-0-14547700-1465281419_thumb.jpg

no need to take out the fan shroud, just lose 4 bolts on fan pulley and make some angles to take viscous fan out.

post-137368-0-96069400-1465281423_thumb.jpg

thinner than stock one

post-137368-0-38113400-1465281427_thumb.jpg

new pads arrived, ready for daily fun.

post-137368-0-18667700-1465281432_thumb.jpg

post-137368-0-27666500-1465281435_thumb.jpg

post-137368-0-10500000-1465281439_thumb.jpg

Edited by YangLIU

fan clutch has a little bit free spin, but there is no overheat problem atm. i know most people would say don't change it if no overheat problem, but i want to keep engine more cool!

so ordered new fan clutch (Shimahide branded from JP). now i could feel very noticeable strong wind under bonnet

for someone who has overheat problem, try to change the fan clutch. even though you test the stock worn viscous fan in cold and it is tight enough with just little bit free spin angle. it may have huge difference if you change new fan clutch.

made in JP

Hook a brother up with the fan clutch ..... link?

Cheers

woohoo , got it all done.

The cluster globe was not burnt out , someone had been in that cluster before :glare: , the track on the PCB was worn away / cracked in one spot, soldered that and tested on bench all working.

Biggest issue was re-calibrating the needles as I had to strip the PCB out.

Radiator was a bit of a pain, but all done, the old top tank started to come apart in my hands, I'm genuinely surprised it had not gone bang.

One more burp tomorrow morning and a bay wash, hope nothing else breaks for a few months, I need to get started on the mods.

Got the Stag back on the road today. Hit a skippy on Easter Monday. It's sat in a forlorn state since. Picked up a complete roller and today it donated its face. Need to massage out the rad support behind the left hand headlight, but it's passable for now.

ZRCGpym.jpg

WhZHafS.jpg

l0rmzGL.jpg

  • Like 1

May was a big month for the ARX – finally had the head unit replaced with a single din Pioneer and Kanatechs fascia. For the benefit of Canberra Stagea owners, BDL did the install. Then a gearbox flush and off to Scotty’s Customs for a dump pipe, front pipe, cooling mod, new plugs, rocker cover gasket replacement and attessa, transfer case and diffs fluid change. Well worth the trip.

Got the following completed today ready for wheels tomorrow

- changed oil and filter

- replaced front inner passenger guard (grill due to transmission cooler in fro t of it to let heat excape)

- cleaned engine bay

- put the lower stone guards back under the front of the car

- finished securing Axis kit

- painted R34gtt front calipers black (yet to do silver 'NISSAN' writing

- placed spacer on exhaust so it clears kit70fba96b223414a91bfb5704af408dfb.jpge7176bddd3f9a300371b941f1c27eded.jpgdfb4aa956456a135d743585ef51abea3.jpg96f12d9fe38c063b4231f25877508790.jpg2a6161fa8529800f6a2d8ed588807374.jpg

  • Like 2

Got the following completed today ready for wheels tomorrow

- changed oil and filter

- replaced front inner passenger guard (grill due to transmission cooler in fro t of it to let heat excape)

- cleaned engine bay

- put the lower stone guards back under the front of the car

- finished securing Axis kit

- painted R34gtt front calipers black (yet to do silver 'NISSAN' writing

- placed spacer on exhaust so it clears kit

yeah, my kakimoto also fight with rear bumper. exhaust shop just heat the rear muffler pipe then make a bit angle to avoid the bumper.

Edited by YangLIU

yeah, my kakimoto also fight with rear bumper. exhaust shop just heat the rear muffler pipe then make a bit angle to avoid the bumper.

Mine is sold about to go to its new owner so wont be touching it.

Ok so front brakes come up a treat

aef2f3505ee558f37e7142f7b69835c9.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...