Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and just to touch on the said sump builder, he races a 32 gtst that runs anywhere between 450-600kw's and is one well sorted rig. wet sump, no oil drama's. oh and it revs well beyond 9

also, love this build to death, huge inspiration for my own build. keep up the good work

Hey Russman

Have you sorted a sump? regardless what you buy you will need gates not just baffles and extra capacity. My tuner builds them. modified pick-up gated and winged. they arent cheap but non of them will be. i think $1200 bolt up no mods.

you also have an rb25 gearbox dont you russ? thats another 15 odd kg over a 20 box.

im guessing you have an unstripped loom? do you have factory intrusion bars in the doors? its been proven time and time again that stripping door frames has little advantage. viva garage used to do very cheap fiberglass doors that cost around 400-500$ most of the weight in standard doors is in the hinge and latch areas. not easy to remove them.

if you take a look under the back of the car and the subframe there is a lot of small weight to be gained. We were able to get bens targa car to 1230 in rally trim without any expensive light weight parts.

if you want to cut weight you have to look at everything as weight. and work out if you need it or not and how you can make it lighter. every little bit counts. and remember removing weight is free power and free brakes.

Good luck for WTA

Yeah Racepace are making me a sump and modified pickup. It is gated.

Getting fitted today.

Yeah 25 box.

Loom is yet to be stripped out...

Door intrusions will be removed soon. Even with fibreglass doors you still need to retain the latch and hinge so I'll stick with my steel doors till I have some money to burn.

Think the next big thing after I strip doors and fit lexan will be the loom. cbf at this stage. If I have time before WTA I'll give it a go.

thanks for the input.

Re wiring from scratch is where you'll make decent gains. I just striped mine down to the minimum up the the fuse box and I saved about 3kg. Nothing to write home about but better than a kick up the ass. Intrusion bars are 2.5kg, each plus I took some door frame out to help getting the bars out, whick took it up to 3kgs. Lexan and lightweight mirrors netted me just over 6kg saved per door.

With an R32 it's 100x easier to get some series 1 doors than drill the bars out. I've got a feeling they are made out of thinner steel too, as there is 10kg a door difference between s1 and s2

If i remember Russ, I'll ask Collins how much wiring he got out of that fire engine gts-t mentioned earlier.

I saw half way pics and a fair bit of crap had come out of it, be interesting to know just how much the end result of a strip/re-wire was

Unfortunately the new custom sump was modelled on an R33 and it didn't clear the swaybar enough when we put it in last week.

Because of this we missed out at PI on the weekend. I had brand new rubber on the thing and was ready to go but no such luck...

Upside to that is I got more done on the splitter. Only a little bit to go and it'll be done.

Thanks to Matt and the guys at SX Developments for the advice and sharing their support frame design.

Started with an MDF sheet

post-10715-0-99604600-1341319121_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-65550900-1341319230_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-26652300-1341319249_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-84348200-1341319261_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-72666500-1341319273_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-43444700-1341319291_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-47516100-1341319306_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-18545500-1341319320_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-94788800-1341319333_thumb.jpg

Also fitted up a power steering cooler to get past some heavy steering after a few laps.

post-10715-0-17573600-1341319409_thumb.jpg

Russ, interested in how you mounted the front tow hook... Can't really see from the pictures what it's bolted to?

It's bolted to the chassis further back. Had to weld an extension so it would protrude though. They never sell them long enough.

With the splitter we have ideas on what we want to do long term but time doesn't permit for this year. Perhaps next year.

Carbon fibre and much fancier diffusers.

Are you going to leave the splitter as mdf or are you going to make a mold of it?

I can't remember reading back about it but did you change your front spring rates when you changed to the 25? Do you mind sharing what you are running?

Looking good

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...