Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nah I love how stock my engine looks and what the car can do considering that. Twas my goal to make it as quick and stock looking as possible. Ex gates and big turbos ruin that.

/knoxresident

Yeah just over 250 on 98

Not a bad hike at all for the money. I wouldn't want much more power; would struggle to put it down. Just took her for a decent spin and faaaaark does she spool up quickly. Boost gauge goes up like a tacho revving in neutral.

I don't care how much more frequently I'll be stopping there, there's something very satisfying about paying $75 for a tank of petrol!

/ethanolpreacher

272rwkw @ 16psi on United 85

RacePace "high flow" cat gave me another 10rwkw. So yeah, top end a little disappointing...prolly the small turbo maxing out...along with internal wastegate and a myriad of other "stock" looking restrictions...but the low and mid range are significantly better. I have near stock response with about 130rwkw more than stock. Car sounds beast and the exhaust smell is <3

Happy camper. Will upload graph when I get home :)

dat dere cheeky skate sesh down boronia :P annoying light wet layer hehe

also 270+ is where 33 GTST'S come alive

come at me brahs

been thinking about E85 lately with all the Scotty propaganda going around... only one other pulsar I know on E85 and it hasnt driven the same since (in a neg way, but could come down to tune). only thing that major puts me off is having to carry jerry cans around, i hate doing that.

Why do you need to carry jerry cans? Unless going long distance there are plenty of United servos around Melbourne. I have 4 within 15 mins drive of me :)

Pat do E85 or buy a modified RB25 lol

Why do you need to carry jerry cans? Unless going long distance there are plenty of United servos around Melbourne. I have 4 within 15 mins drive of me :)

Pat do E85 or buy a modified RB25 lol

will suss out e85 supplies in Perth and then get in touch with mr. trent.

Although that means I need larger injectors (currently 555cc's) & fuel pump (currently gtr pump)....

oh nice to know.

Looks like 25kw gain all across the rev range?

Congrats on the power gain.

Looks like ~35kw in some areas.

Pretty good and that's a conservative E85 gain, really, from what I've seen. Second to NOS and boost controllers, best dollar/kw upgrade!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...